700R4 Governor Question

[355V8S10Tahoe]

The problem I have is shift points to high, mostly the 1-2 shift, just cracking the throttle driving normally... It seems to hold first to long and bangs into second like it has a shift kit in it... The 700R4 transmission I used was from an 89 4.3L S10 Blazer in the junk yard with 15" rims/tires, it doesn't look like the tranny was ever touched before, the 87 pickup I did my V8 conversion on had a 2.8L with a 60 degree V6 type 700R4 behind it and 14" rims/tires... All I did (so the speedo would match) is move the cable drive from the original 700R4 to the one I was using, it had an electronic speed senser, I'm still running the 14" wheels for now but plan on changing to 15x8 rims with 255/60-15 tires in the rear... I don't know what gears are in the 87 rear or what was in the 89 Blazer...



I was just wondering if I should try the governor from the 87 tranny in the 89 or just recalibrate the governor I have now with one of those recalibration kit's? Or should I just put the 15" 27" tall tires on it? I guess that is going to screw up my speedo reading unless I change speedo drive gears... Right now my 3-4-O shift is at around 38 to 40 which I hear is normal, I just think it's annoying that it has to rev up to a high RPM before it will shift out of first, snapping your neck, just slowly driving around side streets in the neighborhood, my 4.3L 89 Blazer doesn't do that and it used to be able to Idle going about 30 in overdrive around town before I converted to carb and removed the computer, I never got the overdrive hooked back up after that, I guess there was something wrong with it also, but I liked it...

[redneckgames]

how high of rpms is it turning before it shifts? my camaro turns to about 3 before it shifts if I stay in the gas the entire time. Whenever I let of though it shifts normally at lower rpms. I do have a shift kit in it though, so that might change things.

[355V8S10Tahoe]

I don't know, I don't have a tach in it yet... I'm not realy in the gas, that's the problem, at low rpm it won't shift out of first unless I bring the R's up then it will shift through the other gears at a lower rpm...

[Melonhead]

The detent may be too tight. The TV or kick down cable can effect the shift performance. Try adjust the detent near the carb to allow the black slider to come to the front or out the center. Pushing in tightens, coming out loosens. You want to adjust to have a smooth shift, not harsh under light pedal. If the tv is set correctlly, while cruising at 35-40 MPH. Stop on the pedal, the trans should down shift to 1st or second gear. The touque convertor lock up is easy. Wire diagram (http://www.smokemup.com/tech/700r4.php)

[ZR1BLAZER]

along with the T.V. cable you might have a broken 1-2 accumulator spring. very common in the 700r4.

[355V8S10Tahoe]

OK, I didn't mention the T.V. cable and melonhead may have what I need to do... I had it set right at what I thought was full extension of the cable at full throttle but it turned out to be just a tad loose, I was having trouble with sluggish shifts and when stomping on it you would have to back off a little to get it to shift, I took it over to a guy that is supposedly a professional tranny builder and had him adjust it, he pulled the cable end off the throttle linkage end, fully depressed the center plunger, hooked it back to the carb and pushed the throttle to full, ratcheting the plunger out to the correct setting... It did turn out to be a little tight and he did tell me that if it shifts to high to just loosen it a tiny bit... Well, that confirms it, I'm going to play with that T.V. cable again and see what happens, it had a big effect on it before...



As far as my overdrive system is conserned, it works just fine, I designed my own circuit for it that has LED pilot lights that monitor the brake light switch power, vacuum switch, forth gear switch and lock up solinoid, it's like a self diagnostic display that will tell me if somthing fails... This 700R4 also had a thermal switch and I wired in a bypass switch for that and an overdive in or out switch as well, when cruising in overdrive 40 or above you can push the peddal just enough to get the vacuum switch to drop out and the high vacuum light will go out while it drops out of overdrive to forth or third gear depending on how far you push the gas... The system also has a display off switch if I don't want to see it... If anyone is intersted I will try to take a picture of the diagram and post it...



Hopefully I don't have a broken spring in my 1-2 accumulator...

[Melonhead]

If adjusting the TV done nothing to soften the shifts, the spring is the problem. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif

[jameskirk1]

Even if the TV cable is adjusted properly, and mounted to some stud on the carb, it has to be pulled at the correct RATE to function properly. Do a search for "TVmadeEZ" on 700r4.com or bowtieoverdrives website. Also sunnax makes a TV correction bracket for aftermarket carbs. Check this out to make sure you aren't missing this too. Been there and done that, best $100.00 I've ever spend for driveability

[355V8S10Tahoe]

You know what james, that's a good point, thanks for reminding me about the geometry issue with the 700R4 TV cable movement, I have an Edelbrock performer 600 cfm carb and the Edelbrock adapter bracket that excepts a cruise control cable, I guess I just totaly forgot or ignored the TV cable geometry till now, My Bad, I'm looking into it now but It looks to me like I'm going to have to make my own if I want the cruise control and the TV cable corrector in one adaptor plate... I found a TV cable corrector kit at Summit by TCI that's $41.88, I guess I may get that one and weld part of it to my cruise cable bracket because I don't think both of them are going to bolt on together like they are... Is there anybody that makes this type of dual function adapter bracket?... At least If I have both of them I can line up the two bracket plates like a template and mark it out on another plate of steel and make a TV cable corrector plate with cruise control cable bracket in one piece... I would also like to know where to find sunnax, you mentioned they had a corrector bracket but I could not find anything Google searching that? I've been to bowtieoverdrives before and yesterday as a matter of fact, I even think I printed there info out on the TV system... Anyway, thanks jameskirk1...

[Melonhead]

TVmadeEZ (http://www.tvmadeez.com/1406_cam/)



Sonnex scroll down to #29 (http://transmissioncenter.net/PinHole.htm)

[355V8S10Tahoe]

Thanks melon, I found another one at Summit thats only $20.95, that Sunnax lnk is great, I'm going to save that one...

[jameskirk1]

No problem man, hope it fixes your problem -

[355V8S10Tahoe]

Well, I just wanted to bring this thread back up and do a little update on it, I mentioned before that I thought I would have to make my own TV cable corrector plate with cruise control for my Edelbrock carburetor and I did, here is a couple pictures of it...



<hr width='200'><img src='images/jpg.gif'>: <a href="http://s10v8.com/members/355V8S10Tahoe/TVCorrectorPlate+Cruise1.JPG" BORDER="0" target=_blank><font size="-2">image will open in new window</font></a><hr width='200'>




<hr width='200'><img src='images/jpg.gif'>: <a href="http://s10v8.com/members/355V8S10Tahoe/TVCorrectorWithCruise1.JPG" BORDER="0" target=_blank><font size="-2">image will open in new window</font></a><hr width='200'>




The TV cable geometry was corrected and has been shifting great since... Now back to the governor question, I would like to get it to shift to 4th gear at a lower speed, something like 30 or 35 MPH would be great, this would be for economy purposes because my overdrive system won't engage unless I'm in 4th and going 38 to 40, the reason I want this is because on 35 MPH roads around my town I'm in 3rd gear with my RPM's up to maintain speeds of 30 or 35 behind someone, this burns a bit more gas and I want to bring the R's down in these situations...



Will changing the governor springs just a slight bit cure this problem??? If so, which way should I go? Tighter or looser? And should I even think about changing weights?... As far as acceleration I'm not worried about a little lower shift point for 4th gear and my overdrive will drop out any time there is a vacuum drop due to opening the throttle, it's like a down shift to 4th and then it will go to 3rd if I open it even more... http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif