Project Corevtte Blazer, L98

[SLOnova]

So this is a first for me doing Forums, but I’ll give it a try...

OLD:
1989 Blazer, 4.3L, 700R-4, 4x4 (258,000 miles)
NEW:
1990 Corvette 5.7L L98, a rebuild by Jasper Engines (5700 miles)
Rebuilding stock 4.3L 700R-4 (same bell-housing as 5.7L)

I’m starting this thread already half way through the swap, so I’ll try to add pictures from each completed stage over the next few days to allow people to comment before I move on to the next stage. Hopefully, I can be up to my current position by the end of the week.

I began the actual tear down of the Blazer August 2 and planned on using all of August to complete, working weekends and every night after work. I currently have finished removing the old engine and trans, prepped, cleaned, primed, and painted the engine bay and chassis, and have the old trans rebuilt and ready for re-installation. I am now ready to begin test fitting of the new Corvette motor and identifying wiring harness connections. Basically, tear down and prep is done, and the real fun begins…

The last 6 months have been research and parts acquisition, the majority of which has been based from JTR’s book on the subject. So far, I have no complaints about their accuracy and they actually have a lot of good information.

I will try to update as much as possible and to respond to any questions, but since this is my daily driver I am trying to finish in the shortest time possible. Some better pictures to come very soon...

[SLOnova]

I’ll start with the Corvette motor, because I know that’s what everyone is interested in. The really cool part about this Corvette L98 (besides the fact that it is a Corvette L98) is the story that goes with it.

I purchased the motor off Ebay from a Salvage yard in Maryland. They removed it from a 1990 Corvette which had been in an accident and bought off as “totaled”. The salvage company listed the odometer readings at 50,700 miles. I paid $1800, includes crate out to CA.

Upon arrival and inspection, I noticed a Jasper Engines tag and number. Thinking it to be a bit odd for a 50k “original” miles car to have a Jasper Engines sticker, I called them up. What I found was that the motor was actually a complete rebuild of correct replacement for that vehicle, done only 6 months prior (cam, crank, pistons, everything) and carried a 3 year warranty. They also included a contact number for the shop which performed the replacement, who also happens to be in Maryland.

Talking with a very nice lady from that auto shop revealed that indeed the L98 had been replaced by a Jasper rebuild, and indeed the Corvette had been in an accident only 6 months later. The odometer at time of engine replacement…45,000 miles! 5,700 miles on a brand new Corvette motor! For $1,800! (That’s what I said!)

Unfortunately, Jasper will not honor the 3 year warranty as they don’t seem to believe a Blazer is a correct replacement for that motor, but that’s ok. Any workmanship failures would have been evident in the first 6 months it was in the Corvette.

The Corvette motor was not my first choice, it kind of just fell into my lap. I did not want a 305 nor did I want a TBI, so there are not many options left for smog reasons. I was willing to pay a little more for a newer motor for reliability reasons, but Chevrolet does not make a replacement crate motor L98 for the Camaro/Firebird option. LT1s have a lot of unique features I did not want to have to worry about (such as reverse flow cooling), and the LSX series was a bit more than my patience for installation (or my wallet that matter) could handle.

I have acquired all of the bracketry and pulleys and the exhaust manifolds from a ’91 Firbird. I already have installed the manifolds, but I am reluctant to change the bracketry. I plan to do some fit checks with the motor as I believe it is viable to use the Corvette bracketry. When I get to that point, I’ll make sure to take lots of pictures…

[smallblock283]

man what a price keep us in formed

[gdmclnh]

Nice washer and dryer set. I'm collecting all the parts needed to put TPI on my carbed mild 355. Also have all the stuff needed to program my own chips. I'll be watching your progress with much interest. Good luck.

[SLOnova]

Nice washer and dryer set. I'm collecting all the parts needed to put TPI on my carbed mild 355. Also have all the stuff needed to program my own chips. I'll be watching your progress with much interest. Good luck.

Hey, thanks! It’s kinda cramped quarters, so I have to use every bit space I got…I’m doing the swap in a one car garage and one car driveway.

[SLOnova]

So I took the whole front clip off, the plan was to remove the transmission and engine together. Now, I think that the JTR book states that this is not possible and you should not try it. Well, they are technically right, although I don’t think they imagined anyone would cut off half of the oil pan for extra clearance (after realizing that JTR was correct I did try to remove the bell housing bolts and separate the two, but they just were not cooperating so I resorted to drastic measures :naughty:). I did get them both out together though, with some minor modifications.

I think I'll put the new trans and new engine back in separately...

[SLOnova]

After removing the engine and trans, the aftermath of 258,000 miles can be seen in the engine bay. Check out the build up of oil sludge on the front driver side fenderwell, that’s where the remote oil filter was located.137 I had a hell of time with that thing leaking.

Now, the quick, cheap and easy way would be to just throw the new motor right on in there and call it good...but I just couldn't bring myself to putting a beautiful thing like this 140 into a mess like this 136.

Aftermath of cleaning to come...

[dstinch]

Looking good so far. Your Dad should be proud of you!:)

[SLOnova]

Here's what it looks like after cleaning. Oven cleaner works miracles, but careful cuz it also doesn't react well with rubbers, plastics, and aluminum, and it will take paint right off.

Look at the difference on the fenderwell.

Before:150 After:149

[SLOnova]

Here's some more pics after cleaning. I wasn't aware, but that front differential seems to have an aluminum housing.
155

[stevo67]

I think the key to getting motor and trans in and out as a unit is to loosen all the body mount bolts, then remove all but rear two and jack up front of body to clear (2-4 inches?). You'll also need to disconnect steering shaft and possibly brake lines from proportioning valve(but that's no biggie for someone willing to tackle an engine swap...lol).

I know that the Haynes manual says to loosen all, then remove Passenger side (I think, maybe driverside) body mount bolts. Then jack up the side with bolts removed to gain access to bellhousing bolts, in order to remove JUST the motor.

But hey...your way worked too.....lol.....Git'r Done!

[SLOnova]

Sorry it's been a while, been on vacation. Here are some pics of everything primed and ready to be painted.

[SLOnova]

And here are some pics of everything painted. I still need to paint the firewall once I finish removing the old wiring harness and modify the heater/AC box for clearance, but other than that I'm ready to begin test fitting the engine.

[SLOnova]

Just for fun, I thought I'd discuss an interesting dilemma I ran into.

How do you get a 2 ton paperweight 199 up an inclined driveway 198 without your friends dis-owning you for using them as slave labor?


A little bit of ingenuity...:D
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