pulling 350 from s10 blazer

[RockinS10]

I am going to pull the 350 in my Blazer tomorrow.

I realized that the lower part of the oil pan is just behind the front diff. clearance about a half inch forward. What should I do? Will it clear if I tilt the engine up? Doesn't look like it. It even has a remote oil filter because of the shaft & diff. Seems much more complicated than the 2wd pick-up I have.

I was also hoping to keep the trans attached, but the transfer case is a concern. Will it clear when I hoist?

I have attached a photo of the current state it's in.

Your advice would be much appreciated.:)

[Ryoung68]

It can be done, just lift it high and use a cherry picker & engine tilter. plug the trans and remove the distributor first.

[stevo67]

Looks like you already have the front clip off. I would loosen the rest of the body bolts, removing all but the rear-most (2). Jack up the front of the body and place 4x4 blocks between body and frame to hold it up while pulling motor. You will have to disconnect the brake lines at the propertioning valve, and remove steering shaft. Also, check for any wires that may be too short, if they are anything you want to save.

With the above, you should be able to get whole assembly out with transfer case attached. Otherwise, I think you'll need to remove transfer case from transmission.

[RockinS10]

ok, I removed the distributor.

Plug the trans - don't know that that means. front clip either - what is that?

there is a mount on each side of the block with three bolts each side to the block. The other connections as far as I an see are at the transmission a support bar between the frame. the 4x4 shifter handle - the part above the floor seems to be connected to the trans below the floor.

[stevo67]

Front Clip = front fenders, inner fenders, hood, grill, radiator support all as one assembly.

Plug the Trans. = when you remove the drive shafts, you will want to "plug" the hole around the output shaft so it does not leak fluid when you tilt the front way up in the air to remove.

You will surely have to remove the engine mounts (3 bolts each side of block), you'll have to remove the transmission/transfercase "support bar" also known as the transmission crossmember, you'll need to remove the shifter handle, however it is attached, most likely, remove the console around shifter handle, remove the rubber boot, and unbolt from the top-side.

[spacecadet]

I did several 4x4 motors. To me it was just quicker a d easier to remove t he tranny and transfer case.( standard tranny). The suto just ubolted i all and slide it back a few inches.

Space

[Jimmybeam]

Either way you go about taking it out is going to be a pain in the ass. I'd have to agree with Space that you should just pull the motor and trans separately. Depending on how far your motor is set back right now, you may or may not have to take the body mounts off and jack up the body off of the frame like Stevo said because the top two bolts for the bellhousing may be inaccessible. It seems like you're going to be doing extra work to take the motor and trans out separately, because either way you'll have to unbolt the transmission and slide it back to get the motor out. But the problem you're going to run into if you pull everything as one assembly is that as you lift the engine to get the oil pan to clear the front differential, the bellhousing is going to hang up on the tranny tunnel. I'm not saying you CAN'T get it out as an assembly, but its more of a pain in the ass than its worth.

[92blazer4wdv8]

Pull the motor and trans separately it will be alot easier and less time consuming.....

[Ryoung68]

Good point, I missed the 4x4 fact on the last post. Definately quicker to remove separately on 4WD.

[RockinS10]

The job is done and yes it was a pain in the ass!! :crazy:

Thanks Stevo for the tip on lifting the body off the frame. It was a must.

I took it all out in one piece. separated the trans in my garage.
Just finished putting the engine on the stand.

All is good thanks guys!:beer: