View Full Version : Installing cab corners
HAM1974
09-21-2008, 07:57 PM
Bought new cab corners,and a rocker panel from lmc truck,question is when installing these panels should i over lap them with existing metal and grind them down after welding? Or should i cut cab and butt weld new metal in.new to the body work thang,any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Bakas
09-21-2008, 08:02 PM
cutting it out and butt welding it would be the right way in my opinion. But on my truck I got lazy and just overlapped it, I cut the overlaped piece right at the body line, welded it there and then rapped the rest of it around the back of the cab and welded that. And I have to say it looks pretty damn good!
mudy851
09-21-2008, 09:10 PM
i would butt weld if you want to save on body work, i fined its easyer to skim coat than bondo fill plus you wont form rust between the overlays.
92blazer4wdv8
09-21-2008, 09:14 PM
I have to agree butt weld will save on body work..
stevo67
09-21-2008, 11:03 PM
The HOT new deal is GLUE!!!
1. With a straight edge and a square, mark on your truck the area you want to repair, keeping the area as small as possible, but going atleast an inch or so past the rusted spot.
2. CAREFULLY cut the area out of the truck as one whole piece (you will use this to trace your patch panel on the new cab corner).
3. Trace your cut out piece onto the new cab corner, being sure to make very visible lines. Now, when you cut the piece you need out of the new cab corner, trim it about 1/16" smaller than the piece you cut out of truck.
4. From the remainder of the "new" cab corner you started with, cut 1" around each edge that you removed, making 1" wide "strips".
5. From a reputable/professional body work supply house, buy the new "glue" that is being used to do collision and patch panel repair work. I don't remember the exact name, or "type" (epoxy, etc.), but a good supply house will know what your talking about.
6. With 60~80 grit disc, grind area around your repair area, repair patch, and strips clean of paint and primer and dirt (about an inch or two wide) inside cab and out, front and rear of panals.
7. Following directions on product, mix "glue" and apply to one half the width of your strips, place the strips BEHIND the cab corner edges (inside the cab), and clamp in place. Remove excess "glue", and let setup according to product directions.
8. After the strips are attached to cab and setup, you can place your pre-fit "patch panel" over the lips created by the strips (mixing and applying "glue" the same as above), then temporarily screw in place. After "glue" sets up, remove screws and fill holes.
9. After filler has set in screw holes, sand and finish as normal body work.
No welding required, for those of us "sheet metal" challenged.
I first saw the above a few weeks ago on a Spike TV's "Trucks!" episode.
spacecadet
09-21-2008, 11:40 PM
Have to agree w/ stevo67!!!! I've used the stuff a few times and really do like the way the job comes out.
Fill holes with the glue and not the filler. The glue will seal the holes completely. Glass or bondo in he holes would need to be sealed on the back side or they will absorb moisture from the air and start to rust.
Space.
erkenbrand
09-22-2008, 02:31 PM
Yup, it's all about the glue. I just got done doing an '88 F150 from about the mid point of the cab down with glue. Cab corners / parts of the outer rockers / some firewall / some floorpan. It made the job many times faster and easier. I welded everything on my Blazer when I did it, and now wish I'd known about the glue back when I did that. Just make sure your joints are clean and roughed up before you glue them together, and test fit everything before you mix the glue up. I pop riveted the panels together rather than use screws, but either way should work for you.
brucev8
09-23-2008, 11:03 PM
How about some pictures.
RONSTPIS10
10-21-2008, 05:58 PM
i still favor the old fashion weld thing and make sure to cut out as much rot as possible they also make a crimp tool that puts a lip on the metal so you can get a nice clean edge to over lap and not have a hump were you overlaped
Chuckq350
10-21-2008, 09:07 PM
Glue does work but the way ICAR wants you to do them is to cut your parts as if you were to butt weld them and make a sleve to go on the inside either excess metal that you have cut off or flat metal strips fit them then drill holes in the new sheet metal and the existing cab weld you strips or sleeve to the new part then weld the sleeve to the cab then a few tacks on the seam grind it down spread your mud and your good to go. Takes a little longer but a whole lot stronger and to keep rust or corrosion most body supply stores will sell weld through primer it will protect you new and old sheet metal and allow you to weld right through it good luck ....
gdmclnh
10-21-2008, 09:08 PM
I have done all the ways talked about here. I agree with RONSTPIS10. I like the crimping tool and welding in the edge. Then a little grinding. A skim coat of filler on the weld and smooth it up and paint it.
vBulletin® v3.7.4, Copyright ©2000-2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.