99 s10 x-cab 5.3 project thread

[bone]

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/johnclark45/231Medium.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/johnclark45/Picture097.jpg

for now its not in still collecting parts mainly just the wireing harness and new 4l60e

its a 5.3 iv installed a ls1 manifold on it plan to upgrade to a ls6 a little later ,

cam comes from a ls6 specs are 204/218 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.551" / 0.547" int/exh lift
117 LSA

heads are gonna be milled and new springs installed for the higher lift along with seals and 3 angle valve job ,

prolly know my threads from mys10.com but with it closeing i wanted to see what you guys think

[85350DROPTOP]

Looks like a good start. Welcome to the site.

[asepmaster]

looks like fun!

[stevo67]

Welcome to the site :icon_wave:

Looks like somebody forgot to drain the transmission, or plug the tailhousing, before they pulled the old drivetrain..:nono:

Be sure to clean that up before you crawl under there to hook-up the exhaust....:icon_lol:

[91xcabpro]

looks good bone....glad we are getting some people to move over here....so i don't have to go to the planet or the forum to see whats up with your projects

[bone]

thanks xcab id like to say its just like your truck new but never improved your's is so sweet ,

id wish building these motors were cheap , i choosed this motor i didnt wanna invest in a carb that can take serious lateral g strength ,

I was gonna get a normal 350 with vortec heads run a ram jet manifold till i fell inlove with being able to tune these things with a laptop

im running stock 28 lb injectors should be enough they support up to 450 hp + im hopeing to atleast have 320 hp at the wheels with this setup ,

im running truck accessories, on a modded bracket for a idler relocation becuase you cant run the truck bracket with a car manifold with out going in to major cutting ,


heads are getting milled down .0010 to lose one cc per .0005 milled down with 55-57 cc head comeing from 62-63 just to wake up that cam iv hurd it will be a dog low under with the cam .

looseing high end flow with out headers but gaining lowend torque from useing f-body manifolds ,

im useing a jtr knock off plates for the motor mount and im useing 2.8 rubber frame mounts ,

going to take my tranny to a shop to get rebuilt a friend shown me this dvd on how to rebuild it but i dout i have the skills to rebuild it , but the guy on that offroad show on powerblock sundays said it was as easy as rebuilding carbs ,

going to swap a blazer 10 bolt again for cost if i break it ill get a 9 inch i know

uhh ya noticed i only have 1 post per day so as soon as i get work done ill be sure to make healthy thread installments ,

it kinda died on mys10.com becuase i couldnt work on it i had family things to take care of so now i have time on my hands and ready to get this bad boy a rollin


this is a budget build i currently have 895 $ so far

[97v8s10]

You ever gonna get this truck done? j/k Hope to see some progress soon.

[bone]

no a project is way better than finished product but it closer to getting done than anything else .

i hate that i only get to post once every 24 hrs but tomorrow and wensday is my dave off hopefully i get shit done

[carshop]

looks cool, I am doing another one right now...... What pan are you going to run?

[Rinkrat456]

looks cool, I am doing another one right now...... What pan are you going to run?

Since the bone can only post once a day I'll help him answer that question for ya. He's running the stock truck pan.

[Ryoung68]

Welcome guys! Looks like a good start, I'm doing research now, for my 2002 Blazer. It will have to wait for the rebuild of my 89 Pickup though.

[bone]

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/johnclark45/53Medium.jpg

and now with rink rat giving me shit about working on a cross member mod for a month give me a break i had a broken hand ,

but got it in there half ass for atleast a little bit , now i just need to find a tranny shop that will either give me a hell of a deal or sponsor the build or its gonna be another 2 months before i get around to another tranny

im too poor for AA batterys so i use my cell phone alot on this build more to come after i get motor in there how i want it ,

should be dead level right if not just a tad to the back with the tranny in there

im going to buy some expensive ac delco bolts to get it done right , if had some luck finding my store bought starting to rust ,

im just gonna keep editing my post here to prolong the one per 24 hrs ,

this swap is going to totally worth it , i drive my bravada every day and it rides and looks like my s10 from the inside so im just day dreaming of flying down the road ,

im going to use f-body manifolds very important 98-99's had steel exhuast manifolds which you can weld and mod to your needs but the rest are casted and wont weld to anything ,

my ls6 cam seems like a good choice i dont want this to loose any street manners so a big stall is out of the question

[bone]

waitin on fbody manifolds :cool: later on down the road and buy the headers from the sanderson website an save 20 $ when im not rockin a stock cam and actually got heads that will demand headers but then by that time gasoline's meaning of fossil fuel will have totally different meaning or somebody will have a production set for sale

[bone]

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/johnclark45/Picture002-1.jpg

iv seen pictures of guys useing the truck brackets on there swap im useing the exact same parts , i still got an inch to move to the passenger side but i dout it will make a difference ,

this is the first time i got it buttoned down , but i cant see how else i could do it ,

[Rinkrat456]

I had mine damn near all the way over to the passenger side which was the only way to get the f-body manifold on the driver side to clear the steering shaft. So push it all the way to the passenger side on the mounts, and if need be put a few washers on top of the plates (between the block and plates) to space the block up. Looks like you got the knock off motor mount plates, the real ones have a second set of slots that bolt through the 2.8L mounts, allowing you to push the motor up 1/2-3/4" or so.

It is hard to tell from this front angle, but it looks like your mounts need to be flip flopped side to side. The extra material on the plate should point forward, and when I was done the block was at about 1/2 on the slots when I finally got the motor in right.

Also, since you have your fenders off, it'll be nice and easy for ya to raise the cab up when you put the trans and motor in all at once. I had my 2" body lift to help so I didn't need to raise the cab when I put the motor/trans+transfer case in all at once. I don't think I could have done it without the body lift. I know I couldn't with the sis's.

[i0kepa]

Rink,

I verified them physically side by side. I work in a autoparts store and what i did was to pull the pumps off the shelves. the differences were in the pressure between them (that I verified via my catalogs which give the pressures at idle and at rest) side by side you wouldn't be able to tell which was which.

the alternators are even identical. The only differences between them is the clocking position of the harness and the fact that the new silverado's had a 140 amp option. the 140amp alternator is a beast in size compared to the 105. a good majority of the alternators for the full sizes were the same as the s series which as we all know is 105amp. these too were verified side by side.

[Rinkrat456]

Like so.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c393/cgmerriner/truck%20swap/Picture044.jpg

[Rinkrat456]

Hey bone are you keeping the a/c too? I haven't decided if I want to keep the a/c or delete it from my setup. Also what are you using for fuel delivery? I've found out that the fuel pump assembly is the same between the silverado's and the 98 and up s series. The pumps are different as far as pressure, but the actual assembly is the same, all the plugs are the same and so are the inlet/outlets. I plan on snagging the fuel pump assemlby out of the donor truck i'm getting. Instead of spending another $280 smacks for a new one.

They are actually NOT the same between the full sizes and S-series, and from 93+ all S-truck pumps are the same except for the flex fuel pumps. They will however all put out the same pressure, which is then regulated elsewhere along the fuel system either at the filter or at the fuel rail or both.

[bone]

back to the top with this one again ,

alright well my motor mount problem is like this im installing them is like this

the extra material of these car shop inc plates the extra meat or tab material towards the front and the mount slots are Horizontal for anchor 2.2 mounts from o'rielly auto parts ,


i have an inch of clearence away from the fire wall not a problem i dont even have a tranny in with it yet but i compensate for it being there with a jack to the oil pan ,

ok an inch away from the fire wall but my power steering pump hits the p/s box ,

any help is greetly needed and thankfull for

these car shop inc are suspose to be the ones you get from here

[carshop]

I am having problems understanding what your battling here? The pulley will hit the box and some have gotten away with grinding the stud to clear... My solution to you is to install a f body ps pulley and it will clear just fine.

Is there another problem with mounting the engine other than the pump?

[carshop]

You also need to slide it over to the passenger side a bit more, have you notched the frame for the correct engine placement?

[bone]

thanks ill try that i just hate haveing problems this early in the game ,

ill look for a camaro ps pulley is there another one that could be gotten cheap ? like a 3.8 or 2.2 car or truck i can gank one of these off of ?

i would say i knotched it to much , ill slide it over all the way and see what works out

[carshop]

Here is a good one

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1007602-body-6-0-5-3-ford-p-s-pulley-swap-pics.html