motor spec questions

[gixxert]

ok well this last weekend my motor blew which i was planning on redoing during the summer so this just puts my schedule way up in the year.

here is what i have and wondering what all i needed to get the best performance out of the motor and the truck

i have;

350 block standard bore 2 bolt mains

holley throttle body 502-6

looking for the edelbrock intake for the vortec heads

vortec heads "906"

and an edelbrock cam 3702

Advertised Duration 244/264, Lift .398/.442

and the headers from the site

also a 700r4 tranny

and the stock rear end

i have never really messed with building an motor what else do i need to look for will the standard bore be fine or should i bore it over a bit the truck will be daily driven but used every now and then for pulling my street bike.

planned modds so far are

2500 stall for the tranny

and if i can figure out how i want to change the gears in the rear end they will be changed (thinking 3.73's limited slip)

so i guess what i am asking is there something i need to change to get better performance ,mileage but still keep it some what low cost.

thanks i love this site

[wilborn2007]

i know that it will need to be bored to get every think ture agin. i dont know much about the throttle body stuff.

[HATFIELDSCHEVY]

i think the best and cheapest route would be to buy a short block 4 bolt main 350 block with a balanced rotating assy. summit sells them cheaper than you can get the machinning and parts for your block. i personally bought the crate long block for my truck and i build eng. all the time. just not cost effective anymore unless you are doing a very radicial build or one for very pacific rpm range performance. also i put in a 2400 stall tci in my truck and the stock converter was better out of the vette the trans came from went to a costom converter shop and had one made for my truck was cheaper than the tci new and works a lot better. just a heads up i don't know if the tci is just a bad brand or what. i run 3.73 gears in my truck with a locker spool works well and pretty cheap to do. but if you do the rear end and engine without upgrading the trans atleast to a level 2 you are going to break stuff. all my hard parts are now level 2 or better after taking the trans back out 9 times trying to do cheap.

[ZR1BLAZER]

i agree with some of what hatfieldschevy is saying. with a 700r4 trans the 3.73 will be a nice all around gear. buy a converter that is recommended for your cam rpm range. also you can buy a Daycco converter for a 4.3 with a 700. if its a 1600-1800 stall it will be close to 2000-2100 on the V8. and they only run about $100 if your trans is solid and gave no signs of wear with the V6 then you will be fine with the V8. you dont NEED to rebuild your trans. as far as the create engine well i agree. you can get a scoggin dicky motor 350 4 bolt main long block from GM with a factory warranty 5 years/50,000 miles for less the 1800. i got one 8 years ago for 1494.95 delivered. thats cheap. and these are brand new engines from GM not rebuilds so its a standared bore block with room to grow. these engines are 8.3 comp with 76cc heads. so you pop those off add the vortecs you should be close to 9.0 comp with your cam choice and fuel injection you have a 300+ hp motor thats fun to drive great on gas and VERY dependable.

[HATFIELDSCHEVY]

you may be right about not doing the trans it may hold up if you don't get on it i have a heavy foot. no stock 700r4 is built to withstand 300 hp. the tci sizzler 700 r4is only rated at 300hp. i think a stock 700r4 is rated about 220hp even the vettes of this era were only rated at 190. a locker spool will not give i'm pushing about 500hp and had to do a level 2 kept finding the weakest point and breaking.

[mkmsports41]

Your best bet, as mentioned is to buy a crate motor. If you want to build an engine the way it should, your looking at $3000 at least. 99% of blocks you find will have to be bored to true up. Most good blocks are hard to find, you will probably have to 40thousands overbore (358ci) I have built and had many built. Machine work isnt cheap. Most shops charge $20-40 to bore one hole. You might as well have it line bored too. That can run another $150. Not to mention freeze plugs and miling the block and heads if needed. Gm sells a nice little crate motor for $2800 intake to oil pan. I think you first need to figure out your engine plans before deciding on tranny. 700r trannys are nice b/c over drive but are more expensive to build. I was recently down this road and talked to 4 or 5 tranny builders. It was going to cost me on average $300 more than a 350 turbo. But then again, it all depends on the amount of power you are putting to the truck. Over $350 hp, I would personally go with a 350 turbo. Most people put too big of a stall in there truck for street applications. I would got somewhere around the 1800 stall if in the low 300hp range. JMO

[stroker1]

I have built and had many built. Machine work isnt cheap. Most shops charge $20-40 to bore one hole. You might as well have it line bored too. That can run another $150. Not to mention freeze plugs and miling the block and heads if needed. Gm sells a nice little crate motor for $2800 intake to oil pan. $20-40 a hole??? I hope you got a reach around with that one. I pay $8-10 a hole to bore and $4 a hole to hone on a sunnen hone.

I can build a 300 hp motor (what I call basically stock) with mostly stock parts for $1200 any day of the week. And that includes a new aluminum intake, 4 barell holley vac. secondary, and roller rockers. But these guys are right, crate motors are nice if you want some security and have a lack of experience.

[ZR1BLAZER]

8-10 a hole??? must be nice. all machine shops around here are also between 20-40 a hole.

[mkmsports41]

Never in my life have i seen a machine shop that was credible bore a hole for $8. must be nice, i would be more engine if i could get work that cheap.

[gixxert]

i found a shop that builds engines with a 3 year 36,000 mile warrinty for 725. for a new block pistons crank everything but intake heads cam. i think i am going to go that route because like i said i havent done that much inner engine work.

as for the tranny it is a level 2 already and i was looking for a small stall for the street as it will only pull my trailor every now and then during the summer.

as for the rear end what all do i need to get to swap the gears out and where is the best place to get them? i am wanting 3.55's or so with limited slip

again thanks so much for the help

[grimpuppy]

I paid $10 a hole last time I had one bored. $20-$40 is nuts for around here.

[ZR1BLAZER]

i think taking a block to a local machine shop with your parts to build you a decent motor is well worth 700+ and you dont have to destroy your investment trying to learn. like i said about the converter. leave the V6 converter in and you will still have a nice stall speed and still be tight enough for a daily driver. as far as the rear. you need a complete reuild kit with shims and crush coller. and you need the correct posi for the gears you choose. i would find out whats in the truck 1st. if you have a 3.42 with a open diff you can just take a 3 series posi and put it straight in. theres more detailed things to do but that will be saved for when your ready to do it. Melonhead and i just did this to his blazer. he has beat on it and put some decent miles on it with no problems.

[gixxert]

zr1 if you melonhead and i ever get together i am so buying the first round of beers thanks again for the info i believe i have the 3.08's but i will look in the glove box for sure

[spacecadet]

I wish machine shop work was that cheap around here. I bought a crate motor a few years ago for my race car. 5 years later I had it rebuild, For what I paid I could have just gotten another crate motor. Don't get me wrong my builder did an excellent job. Thats why I continue to go back to him - even if it cost a little more.

my motor: http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=224002

Space

[dustin20in1]

I was wondering what i need to put a 350 in my s10. I have a 4.3 in my s10 right now it is four wheel drive and automatic. will the 350 bolt right up or do i need to take the motor mounts out of a truck with a 350 in it?
the tranny has 140000 on it. it still shifts great and dosnt leak so can i use my stalk tranny too?

[Melonhead]

zr1 if you melonhead and i ever get together i am so buying the first round of beers thanks again for the info i believe i have the 3.08's but i will look in the glove box for sure

When you coming to visit??? Nether one of of drink. Nothing to say we can't go have a nice meal and shoot the bull!!!