View Full Version : Mortec.com not working for me
Can any of u guys get on to mortec.com for me and check some casting numbers. The engine i just got came out of a 89 chevy G30 Van 350 with 89k.
Block # 14093638 Just want to make sure this engine is made here in the USA and not from across the southern fence line. I would ask if it is a 2 or 4 bolt main but i will find out tomorrow night after work. Since I pulleed it from a 1ton van i would bet it is a 4 bolt main.
Head # 14102191 with the heads i need to know what cc and valve sizes?
I just got it on the engine stand tonight and letting oil drain out during the night.
My internet provider sucks big u know what, I can't even get on painless wiring website at home but I can at work since we have a different IP service there.
Thanks for any help
1badblazer
12-29-2008, 12:01 AM
Straight off mortec
Block
14093638...350...87-95...2 or 4...Roller or flat tappet cam, one-piece rear seal
Heads- Doesn't Say much for yours the one right under it is a close casting # may be the same I don't Know/
14102191...87-up...350
14102193...87-up...305/350......1.94"/1.5" valves
Maybe this will help some
Thank u 1badblazer
Well I plan on staying after work tomorrow night to rip off the oil pan. I guess with the heads, I will just have to pull the heads off to see what size the valves I have. But first I need to give this engine a good cleaning.
1badblazer
12-29-2008, 12:29 AM
No Problem. Good luck with the tear down tomorrow maybe there won't be any surprises.
There should be no suprises. I drove this van 60 miles from one junk yard to another junk yard. The van sat for over a year dang thing has some pick up and go. What helps the most, I got the motor for free.
wild572s10
12-29-2008, 09:45 AM
you can't beat it when it's free, good luck with tear down and rebuild
racer1182
12-29-2008, 04:44 PM
those heads have 1.94 intakes and 1.5 exhaust with 64 cc chambers. I have the same motor as you and gettin ready to build a new roller motor for my race car pullin truck since it has over 300k on it and still runnin but tired.
Greg
Well I got the oil pan off tonight. The engine is a 4 bolt, I also noticed that the cam is a flat top. I went to work early this morning so I could let the oil drain out all day. I decided to take a couple clean rags to let the oil drain thru to see if it would filter out any metal fragments and didn't see any metal in the rags so that is a plus.
I might stay after work tomorrow night to take the intkae and heads off but first have a lot of cleaning to do.
I got some possible better news today from the same buddy at the Junkyard that he might have the same casting number heads already cleaned check for cracks and all new valves that he will give me if I replace some ball joints and shocks and ujoints for a old blazer of mine that I sold him a few years ago. I swear he has one car or truck for everyday in a month. Hope to find out later this week on this.
spacecadet
12-29-2008, 08:39 PM
http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm
Worked for me.
Space.
coppergmc
12-30-2008, 08:11 PM
Those are regular truck heads used from around 88 to 95. They have 1.94/1.5 in valves and 76cc chambers. They also have the swirl port design that was supposed to help low end torque. When you pull the head off check out the design of the port. Kinda wierd looking.
Well I should shot myself for say there should be no surprises.
Today, I decided to go to work and take the heads off my engine. I took a look at the cylinder walls and notice some deep scraps. Just by looking i will have to bore this thing out at about 30 over. So now I was hoping to keep this engine pretty much stock with just putting on a Edelbrock EFI setup. I want to build this truck as something drive ever day with wasting a bunch of gas. I plan on buying my old 90 S10 back from my buddy this summer. He has to many other projects going on so I plan on making that truck into a carb setup.
So now i got to decided if I am going to buy a new creat engine from a dealer or just rebuild this engine from the ground up. With the cost of a total rebuilt and with all the new parts I will have to buy for it I am thinking I will be better off buying a new engine and saving this engine to rebuild later for the other truck.
coppergmc
01-04-2009, 10:29 PM
You could buy one of the rebuild kits from www.northernautoparts.com for $165 or so. Not bad stuff at all and I think they have a special going for the cam. Check out www.enginekits.com if I got the rebuild with the cam wrong. Can't do much better that these kits for the money. Flat top piston from federal mogul, melling pump..........
Those are some good prices on those kits.
I am going to call to one of the machine shops tomorrow to see about ruff figure to machine the block. Plus need to have the head check out, all the exhaust valves have a lot of build up on them.
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