Dart or Edelbock Intake?

[farond21]

I am considering parts for build. I will be running Dart Pro 1 215cc heads. I am pretty much set on a dual plane intake and i am trying to decide between Dart or Edelbrock Air gap? Opinions on either one are appreciated.

[harleyboy]

weel I dont know any thing about dart intakes but the edelbrock intake is damn good had one on my carlo and it made one hell of a difference on the street then the stock one I had. this is the same set up I had before I got the edelbrock.

[wild572s10]

my thought is run Dart intake with the Dart heads, they might have better port match

[farond21]

my thought is run Dart intake with the Dart heads, they might have better port match


thats what I was thinking but I have had no experience with Dart intakes.

[OH_YO]

What cam are you looking at?

[stroker1]

What ya going to do with that motor? And like OH_YO said, what cam you looking at? The intake depends on the rest of your combo. That's allot of head for a dual plane intake. In some cases having a little bigger set of heads than you really need can be helped out by running a dual plane like an Air Gap or RPM intake to help give you a little more low end. If you have less than 400 cid (383 min.) and you are going to run those heads on the street or strip you are going to have to turn the piss out of it and the rest of the combination has to be up for it.

If you are building a 400+ cid small block for street strip then your heads will probably be fine with a street/strip dual plane. And if you have a smaller engine and going street/strip then you probably have too much head for the street, unless you are going to spray a CROWD of n2o on it. And then in which case you still need a single plane if you spray the balls off of it.

But if you are going to get the best out of those heads on the track and you don't care about the street then go with a single plane like a Vic Jr or the Dart single plane. The Dart single plane works great and has good size runners if you have the coin for it. It works great on slightly larger engines and with N2O.

[spacecadet]

Like was said, its all according to what you plan on for the whole package. What works well in one circumstance may not in another. If you have the coin to play the match game, then I would go with the matching manufacture. FOr example, if you runn an eldbrock head and cam then the intake would be the cherry on the top of the package.

[bignate]

unless you already have the heads jegs and summit sell "top end kits" dart has heads and intake kits and i know edelbrock makes a real nice kit that has cam heads intake carb air cleaner and a new wing nut all you need is a short block. jmo but thought id say it

[farond21]

I am going with a 383. The truck will be mostly strip but I would like to drive it on the street from time to time. I was looking at dual planes for the boost in low and mid mange performance when the truck did see the street.

will be running carb and no nitrous. Cam I am looking at is Comp solid lift.
290/300 duration .540/.563 lift 114.00 lobe
or
290/298 duration .540/.558 lift 110.00 lobe

Thanks for everyones input

[tonloc]

i think both are over priced i have brodix 220cc heads with a professional products single plane i got for $150 brand new.


but i'm a budget builder not a bling blinger

[stroker1]

I am going with a 383. The truck will be mostly strip but I would like to drive it on the street from time to time. I was looking at dual planes for the boost in low and mid mange performance when the truck did see the street.

will be running carb and no nitrous. Cam I am looking at is Comp solid lift.
290/300 duration .540/.563 lift 114.00 lobe
or
290/298 duration .540/.558 lift 110.00 lobe

Thanks for everyones inputI would go with the 2nd cam if those where the go betweens. The 2nd cam will be a better strip cam and still not too much for the street.

Personally, if it where me (and I know it's your decision) I would gear mostly towards setting it up for the strip if it's not going to see allot of street driving. Shit I could fart around the street with my race motor and turn some heads if everything was still street legal. But I have a tendancy to love allot of compression and a nasty ass cam. You could always retard a little timing and fart around the neighborhood on some 93 octane or maybe a mixture of race gas and pump gas.

BTW, what's the real numbers on that cam, I mean like duration @.050", I cant tell nothing about them damn advertised numbers.

P.S. watch out for them solid lift flat tappet cams and break it in like it's a new born baby. The oil and stuff nowdays is hard on a flat tappet with allot of spring pressure. I lost my first couple lobes on a flat tappet race cam a couple years ago. Thought it was always something everybody was doing wrong, but it happened to me and I thought I was being over protective. Resist the urge to rev the motor when you are breaking it in, use more than enuff cam assembly lube, and it don't hurt to use a weak set of valve springs to break it in with and then swap them out. Also make extra sure all pushrods are free of binding and watch to make sure they are all rotating while the engine is running. A flat tappet cam should have the lifters spinning in the bores at all times while it's running. Keep a watch on it by leaving the valve covers loose and jerk them off a couple times to watch the pushrods spin. Just don't forget to tighten the valve cover bolts later.

BTW, here's the Professional Products Hurricane that I'm running, a pic before the nitrous. It has small runners and needs allot of porting out of the box, but works well with the small runner heads I'm using.

http://www.s10v8.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=56

[inou2]

Like others have said, I'd stick with the Dart to Dart setup. This is where they (Dart), do their R & R, and we can take advantage of it. I like your second choice of cam, too. You might consider Comps 285 grind. It's in their "High Tech Line", in the Jegs catalog with three RPM ranges. I used it in three street/strip cars. It has tons of mid range torque, not bad on the low end, and sounds like a monster.

[farond21]

Thanks for the info stroker. Here is the advertised duration on the cams. Both of these cams were recommended by CamQuest.


comp grind# 290AS-14
dur. @ .050" 255/265

comp grind # XS290S
dur.@ .050" 252/260

[coppergmc]

I'd go for a single plane intake like stroker's, a really good converter, and a solid roller. For the money, the solid roller is the only way to go. Especially if you don't have the heads yet. You can order the heads set up from Dart the way you want them (ie spring pressures). Then you don't have to worry about cam break in. I've built my last flat tappet motor.

[inou2]

coppergmc has a good point on the solid roller. There is virtually no break in on a solid roller, and it frees up some horsepower. It's a more expensive route, but i've had real good luck picking up good used roller components cheap off of racingjunk and ebay.

[grimpuppy]

Thanks for the info stroker. Here is the advertised duration on the cams. Both of these cams were recommended by CamQuest.


comp grind# 290AS-14
dur. @ .050" 255/265

comp grind # XS290S
dur.@ .050" 252/260

I would go with the Dart intake or a Victor JR. You aint gonna gain any low end with either of them cams using a dual plane intake. Them cams don't do anything under 4000 rpm. The second cam you listed is the one I have except a little different LSA along with Dart 230 heads and a vic jr intake. You will need a big stall (4000 +) and 4.11 - 4.56 gears depending on your tire size. The only street driving it will be able to do is a parade or cruise night. You will overheat the tranny if you try and drive it on any highway or cruise for a long period of time with a big stall. Even though it is considered "small" for a racing cam, it aint close to being streetable. It needs to idle at about 1150 rpm with the loose converter. Also that cam bleeds off a lot of cylinder pressure. 12:1 compression is about minimum for it. That cam is capable of going in the 10's but if you don't match everything else to it it will just be a lopey engine that runs like crap. If you do not want to use that big of a stall and compression then I would select a smaller cam.

Take it for what you want, but like I said I run that cam and I know exactly how it runs.

[farond21]

Thanks for the real time info on the cam. Camquest list it usage as 2800rpm to 7200rpm and a 3300+ stall. I will strongly consider the info you have given me on the cam.

[inou2]

farond21.....here's another route you can go and it won't cost a dime. Give Comp a call on their CamHelp line. 1-800-999-0853. Camquest will get you in the neighborhood, but Comp can get you dialed in with your particular goal in mind.

[farond21]

farond21.....here's another route you can go and it won't cost a dime. Give Comp a call on their CamHelp line. 1-800-999-0853. Camquest will get you in the neighborhood, but Comp can get you dialed in with your particular goal in mind.

Thanks I was just on there site browsing before I jumped back over here.

[stroker1]

Take it for what you want, but like I said I run that cam and I know exactly how it runs.
He speaks the truth, my cam is similar as well except it's a solid roller. It will idle much better than mine because of the LSA but it's a lot for the street.

However you did say you wanted mostly strip, so that would be mostly strip. You could terrorize your neighbors and maybe go for a hamburger if you live near a fast food joint. But that's about it.

BTW, I downloaded camquest from comp cams, personally I think it sucks. I can get more out of my desk top dyno from Performance Trends, its the Engine Analyzer EZ package.

[farond21]

The street driving I was refering to was maybe a parts run and some cruise nights. I really need to get desktop dyno.

I am still open on the cam I may consider a little less duration.

[-Deception-]

I'm more of a edelbrock fan. but thats just me.

[grimpuppy]

I would decide on how much stall you can live with for the street driving you plan to do then get a cam to match it.

For example if 3500 is all the stall you can live with, then get a cam that a 3500 stall is optimum for instead of a cam that a 3500 stall is the bare minimum.

The cam I was talking about the range is 2800-7200 and minimum stall 3300. But to get the most bang out of that cam and the fastest times at the track, you need a 4500 stall, that is where it starts making its peak torque. The best operating range is 5000-7200.

Instead of settling for a non optimum setup for the track and the street with this cam, chose a cam that makes peak torque around 3800-4000. That way a 3500 stall is optimum for the track and it will be a better motor on the street.

I have used 3500 as an example, you just got to decide how much stall you can deal with.

[farond21]

Thanks for the great info grim. I have never had the cam and stall explained like that but it makes perfect sense.
3500 is what I am planning for so I need to make a few calls and find the cam that peaks around 4000 like you said.