Just picked up a new project S-10

[406shark]

Here are some pictures that I took when we got back from a road trip to southern Missouri this weekend. I'll get some better pictures up after we get it in the shop and check it over.

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/S-10arrival003.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/S-10arrival002.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/S-10arrival001.jpg


Jeff

[harleyboy]

looks good man, what part of minn are you from use live in minn and wisconsin. I guessing it has a good size motor judging by the hood.

[Bakas]

I see your not the only one that has a s10 in a plain white wrapper, lol looks good!

[406shark]

Just a single 4 bbl 355.

Here is a breakdown at this point.

355 – 12.3-1 compression
Eagle Crank
Eagle Rods
Ross 12.5-1 Forged Pistons
Doug Herbert Solid Roller Cam
Roller Rockers 1.5
Crane Stud Girdle
Brodix Track 1 Aluminum Heads
2.08” & 1.60” valves
Rattler SFI Balancer
Edelbrock Victor Jr. Intake – Ported
Holley/Proform 750 Double Pumper
Unknown brand under chassis Headers

Turbo 400
JW Ultra Bellhousing
JW case shield
Manual Reverse Valve Body
Pro Tree Trans Brake
8” Converter
Hurst Quarter Stick Shifter

Ford 9”
4.30 Pro Gears
Strange Full Spool
Moser Axles
Disc Brakes

2” Dropped Spindles
Moroso Trick Springs
Comp Engineering 3 Way Adjustable shocks

M/T 28.0”x10.5”x15” Slicks
165R-15” Front Tires
15”x10” & 15”x3.5” Wheels

Hardwood 6” Cowl Induction Hood
Holley Black Pump
12 Gallon Fuel Cell
Line Lock
Auto Meter Tachometer and Gauges

I love the white with black hood look, I may keep it that way.

Jeff

[406shark]

The cam has .630" lift. The engine was not dynoed... yet. The engine was in a '68 Camaro that was supposedly running 6.30's in the 1/8th at 2925 lbs. This truck should weigh less, but it doesn't have a cage. I've already called around and found a local chassis shop that will install a custom 10 point chrome moly cage for $1300. complete.

Jeff

[bigdsr56]

Truck looks good! You should have a lot of fun with that one.

[Bakas]

just curious how mutch did you pay for that truck if you dont mind me asking??

$1300 sounds like alot for a molly cage, I could do it for half that price but you live too far away lol.

[grimpuppy]

My cage was in when I bought mine, but I have the receipt. It was $1200 for a mild steel 10 pt.

[RONSTPIS10]

looks like a nice solid truck should be nice once you get it to the track

[Shovelhead]

I think we need to start a white S-10 owners group.... I like that truck 406Shark

[Bakas]

I think we need to start a white S-10 owners group.... I like that truck 406Shark

yeah we can call it the white trash group

[RedRooster]

sweet ride whats the duration @ 50? i really like doug herbert cams. And its got a beer window

[HardinValleyMagic]

Nice find. I like the look of white with dull black hood aswell. Kinda gives it the old school mucle look.

[wild572s10]

truck looks solid and bet it sounds wicked

[harleyboy]

that's a rocking truck from what you said it has in it.

[406shark]

looks good man, what part of minn are you from use live in minn and wisconsin. I guessing it has a good size motor judging by the hood.

I tried to PM you my location, but your PM feature is turned off.

Metro area... between Stillwater and WhiteBear Lake.

Jeff

[406shark]

just curious how mutch did you pay for that truck if you dont mind me asking??

$1300 sounds like alot for a molly cage, I could do it for half that price but you live too far away lol.


I picked it up for $4000. I thought it was a good price considering all the money spent on the driveline. The economy allows for some good buys if you have extra cash available.

If you can do the cage for 1/2... I should pay for a plane ticket to bring you out. :)

Around here, $1300. is a good price. Maybe you should move to Minnesota and make some money?

Jeff

[406shark]

sweet ride whats the duration @ 50? i really like doug herbert cams. And its got a beer window


I didn't get a cam card with it, the owner said he would try and dig it up for me. I may have to pull the front of the engine down to get a cam part number.

Jeff

[406shark]

truck looks solid and bet it sounds wicked

It sounds great... it has an very nasty lope at an idle of 1100-1200 rpm.

Jeff

[Bakas]

nice find thats a good price, I prob got almost 10 grand in my truck lol. But I have been looking for another project since the economy is down, like you said its a good time to buy!!

I think I might move to Minnesota, can I live in your basement? lol!!

[406shark]

I don't think the wife would go for that.

Jeff

[stroker1]

The cam has .630" lift. The engine was not dynoed... yet. The engine was in a '68 Camaro that was supposedly running 6.30's in the 1/8th at 2925 lbs.

Was that Naturally Aspirated??? I guess that's possible, but it's a mighty tall order for a 355 with Track1 heads and 2925 lbs without N2O. Even with a transbrake, high stall, and big tires that's impressive if it don't have nitrous. That wouldn't be bad even with nitrous.

[406shark]

It was running alcohol, and the weight was with driver. I'm hoping to get this S-10 deep into the 10's, then I'll be happy.

Jeff

[Bakas]

dude you got a killer deal, Alky is the way to go. Now lets put some spray on it!!

im very jelous of your truck LOL

[daniel202010]

man thats a good price , nice truck , i have a little over 3200 in mine and its still on jackstands :)
but its comming along nicely .

[XTEN]

thats a project?thats about as close to done as anything ive ever had! lots of good stuff.by all rights youre gonna need a cage!

[406shark]

The truck has a rollbar, but not anything that would pass tech. It is a 4 point in cab only, and the door bars are pro steet type. They run near the kidney area.. too low to pass tech. A full chrome moly cage is in the works.

The truck needs alot of little things to make me happy with it. It's getting Cal-Trac's and Rancho adjustables on the rear. I want to rewire the truck. I need to choose a new seat (it currently has a gen 2 bench seat), and do some interior finishing. I don't like how some of the work was completed by previous owner and I have a few months before spring to play with it.

Jeff

[kixx0983]

looks like it going to be a bad ass ride

[406shark]

Did some work this Saturday on the new project. It needs alot of things fixed to fit my needs/wants. I don't care for how it was put together in some aspects.

This is a picture of what the engine compartment looked like when purchased.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/1984S-10progressphotos001.jpg

Here is a picture after removing the bundle of tubes they call underchassis headers, and after the install of the fenderwell headers installed.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/1984S-10progressphotos003.jpg

Here is one of the right side of the engine compartment.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/1984S-10progressphotos004.jpg

This one shows after removal of the stock waterpump, pulleys, etc.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/1984S-10progressphotos005.jpg

The future plans call for an electric waterpump, smaller radiator, installing a remote mount transmission cooler with fan, and much more. I didn't like how the radiator, pulleys, tranny cooler fit as it was. I'm looking for a much cleaner look under the hood.

Take a look at the master cylinder and brake lines... I'm not sure what he was thinking? Going to make a block off plate for the M/C area and run new brake lines.


Jeff

[rayL]

just curious how mutch did you pay for that truck if you dont mind me asking??

$1300 sounds like alot for a molly cage, I could do it for half that price but you live too far away lol.

You know something the rest of the world dont?? Tubing is gonna cost half that. Send me some pics of some chromoly cages you have put in and i will start hauling cars to you to have them done for 600-700 bucks.

[Shovelhead]

Looking good 406, are you gonna have to do something different for the steering shaft?

[Ryoung68]

Nice find on the truck, with whats there its well worth the price. Have fun! :headbang:

[406shark]

Looking good 406, are you gonna have to do something different for the steering shaft?

Yep... trying to find out which vehicle has the smallest diameter u-joint at the top of the shaft. I have heard Jeep Cherokee, and Jeep Grand Cherokee use a shaft that would work well. I planned on doing some searching online into what would work best.

Jeff

[Bakas]

You know something the rest of the world dont?? Tubing is gonna cost half that. Send me some pics of some chromoly cages you have put in and i will start hauling cars to you to have them done for 600-700 bucks.

Yes tubing is like 5 bucks a foot not cheap, I worked at a chassis shop for a few years and im just doing side jobs at my house since im recently unemployed. If I get more jobs than I will raise my prices, but for now im not charging that mutch. Ive done work for some personal friends and only charged them for the price of the tubing, and some beer lol.

Ill send some pics to ya, if ya need anything done let me know thanks.

[Bakas]

heres a few

[85SS]

Yep... trying to find out which vehicle has the smallest diameter u-joint at the top of the shaft. I have heard Jeep Cherokee, and Jeep Grand Cherokee use a shaft that would work well. I planned on doing some searching online into what would work best.

Jeff

Does the truck have factory dash? And are u planning on running it? Reason, I custom made my steering shaft. But I have aluminum dash. But I used 2 universal joint from my local speed shop, Some .875 dia. stainless steel rod and a quick connect steering coupler. Works with my fenderwell headers.

[406shark]

It does have the factory dash. I have not decided if I'm going to retain it or not. I've never attempted to make something like a steering shaft. If you lived close I'd hire you to make one for me. When it comes to safety I don't know if I trust myself making an important item like that. I would love to have a removable steering wheel on my truck. What did it cost you to make your setup?

Jeff

[85SS]

It cost me around 150 to build mine. I used these parts, Jegs part # 153-516464, 153-523464, and 950-270-2016. I got mine from a speed shop but this is the same stuff so you will have part numbers. The 153-523464 is the splined one that will fit right on the factory gear box. The rod that I used I order from my work. Jegs sells some universal shafts that may work for u. Need any more info let me know. Here is pic of mine. Can't see it real good, but maybe can get a idea.

[406shark]

Thanks for the part numbers and information. I'm going to try using a Jeep Cherokee shaft to see if it will work. Cost should be less than $20.00 at the junkyard.

Jeff

[HATFIELDSCHEVY]

nice looking truck it looks very clean in the pics

[406shark]

Thanks for the compliment.

I called Summit this morning to take advantage of the $25.00 "Summit Cash" offer they sent me in a e-mail. It was good until tomorrow.

I ordered a Kirkey seat, seat cover, and what looks to be a really nice seat mount.

Part numbers

KIR-16400 Seat, Aluminum, Highback, 20 Degree Layback, 15.5 in. Hip Width.

KIR-16431 Seat Cover, Black, Nylon, Fits KIR-16400.

KIR-99200 Seat Brackets, Fixed Mount, Natural Steel, Universal, Welding Required.

I will take some pictures of as much of the install as possible. I'm going to do some prep work for the install, then have the chassis shop installing the cage do the final welding to the cage.

Plans for next weekend (I wish I wasn't working this weekend) are to remove the stock seat, show roll bar, rear glass, windshield (hairline crack), dash, carpet and anything else I can think of to make cage install go easier.

Jeff

[406shark]

Today I had an extra two hours of free time. I ran by the shop to make sure the Kirkey seat, cover, and mount kit were delivered... they were. :thumbup:

A Jeep Cherokee steering shaft was delivered late yesterday from one of the local junkyards. I freed up the shaft, then I cut it down to the proper length to fit the S-10.

Then I attempted to install the shaft, but as luck would have it I need to do more modifying to make it work. The previous owner mounted the engine higher in the engine bay than I would have. The fenderwell headers I installed last weekend have an interferance issue with the number 7 primary tube.

After I pull the dash next weekend I'm going to have to shift the steering column for more clearance. I don't like crawling under a dash.

Then I pulled the bench seat (2nd Gen model), the carpeting, and also the outdated 5 point harness. Then I grabbed a couple of the guys to help push it into a different bay. It's a pain to push a truck with a spool installed. :shock: Monday I'm going to stop at the shop and cut out the roll bar (I forgot my Sawzall today).

Made pretty good progress for only two hours at the shop. I'll keep updating as progress continues.

Jeff

[harleyboy]

keep it up man sound like you are having some good luck with it and its looking damn good.

[406shark]

Stopped in at the shop today for a couple of hours. I fixed the steering shaft problem, and installed the shaft. Also got the windshield, backglass, and the headliner removed.

The wiring is a mess on this thing. The guy used speaker wire for some of the hookups.

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/S-10interiorbefore001.jpg

Here is a shot of the show type roll bar.

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/S-10interiorbefore002.jpg

Here is a shot after removal of the wiring mess.

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/S-10interiorbefore003.jpg

Tomorrow starts some heavier work... more pictures to follow.

Jeff

[406shark]

Sorry, but I forgot my camera. So no pictures this time. Yesterday we got the rollbar cut out. Adjusted the steering column again to work better. Installed a radiator and electric cooling fan. Installed an electric waterpump. Made, and installed an aluminum mount plate for the mastercylinder to hide the firewall mess. Installed the mastercylinder. Still need to run new brake lines that don't look like crap. Removed rest of the wiring from under the hood. Installed new outside door handle on passenger door so it opens from the outside as well. Pulled the Cal-Trac's and Rancho shocks off of the other S-10 so they are ready to install on this S-10. I made, and installed a mount for the dual batteries. I think that's about it for yesterday.

Jeff

[harleyboy]

at laest you have a good solid body to start with man.

[406shark]

Just a quick update...

Just got back from dropping the truck off at the chassis shop. I ended up asking them to run the cage thru the firewall to the front frame rails as well. I'm going to have them install a window net, and to mount my Kirkey seat to the cage as well. Hopefully it should be done in two weeks. I asked for a quote on having them make up a dash for it as well. He said his "tin" guy would take a look at it and give me a call.

Must be time to order more parts...

Jeff

[silver_82]

sounds like everyones putting cages in their trucks this winter. nice truck, and def sounds like you got a good buy, It's always nice to buy 10k worth of go-fast-goodies for 5k, lol.

[406shark]

sounds like everyones putting cages in their trucks this winter. nice truck, and def sounds like you got a good buy, It's always nice to buy 10k worth of go-fast-goodies for 5k, lol.

I love good deals.

I'm going crazy now waiting for the cage work to be completed. It's just getting started this week and I'm ready for it to be back already.

I went and bought some Rustoleum hammertoned paint for the cage... already had some bedliner material to do the cab floor. Of course I'll have to make some patch panels for the flooring where the old cage went through the floor.

I'm still working with the electrical idea's. Anyone happen to have any diagrams showing how they wired their race car? I have most of the supplies, just going through idea's in my head for the layout. I want to do it right the first time.

Jeff

[406shark]

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCageinstall001.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCageinstall002.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCageinstall003.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCageinstall004.jpg

Some pictures I took this evening after getting the truck back from the roll cage installation.
More to come this weekend.

Jeff

[406shark]

more pictures...


http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCageinstall005.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCageinstall006.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCageinstall007.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCageinstall008.jpg

[406shark]

the last couple for tonight... more to come this weekend.

Jeff


http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCageinstall009.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCageinstall010.jpg

[Bakas]

lookin good, who ended up doing the work?

[406shark]

Local chassis/fabrication shop called Mean Street Performance.
http://user1358701.sites.myregisteredsite.com/
The guy can weld... I almost hate to have to paint over the nice welds.

He talked me into going with the tubes to the front frame rails, I'm glad he did. It really tightens up the whole truck. Now comes the work of putting it all back together. Starting Friday morning.

Jeff

[Bakas]

yes the front bars help out alot, them welds look just like mine! I used to say the same thing when a chassis would get powder coated but you can still see the welds, looks cool with a metallic red paint job on a dragster or something. I like the window net brackets, we used to do the same thing on pro-mods. Are you gonna do swing out door bars too? Looks great though, how fast are you planning on going with this truck?

[406shark]

As it's a track only truck I didn't go with the swing out drivers door bar. He said that he could change that out in the future if I wanted. I don't have any idea on et's yet. I'm hoping for solid low-mid 10's.

I do have to get a removable steering wheel kit to make it easier to get in and out of the truck. I'm not getting any younger... or smaller.

Jeff

[Bakas]

Yeah I have a Kirkey seat and those phuckin hip sides on the seat make it so hard for me to get out, stock steering wheel too. Ive been thinking of buying one of those cheap plastic seats so I can just slide my fat ass out lol.

[chris1972]

Thanks for the part numbers and information. I'm going to try using a Jeep Cherokee shaft to see if it will work. Cost should be less than $20.00 at the junkyard
Jeff

i have a shaft out of a grand cherkee with the upper ujoint ..its free but i am in oregon lol

[406shark]

i have a shaft out of a grand cherkee with the upper ujoint ..its free but i am in oregon lol


Thanks for the offer, but I already installed one out of a Cherokee.

Jeff

[XTEN]

Those welds are beautiful.Nice neat job.What kind of headers are they?They arent the ones that were on it when you bought it,are they?

[XTEN]

Please disreguard the header question.Just looked through your earlier posts,and that was covered.Still a really nice job.

[406shark]

Please disreguard the header question.Just looked through your earlier posts,and that was covered.Still a really nice job.

No problem. I have done the same... many times. Thanks for the compliment.

Jeff

[manyfire]

nice, can't wait to see what you can get out of it.

[406shark]

Didn't get as much done as I'd hoped today.

Made some patches for the holes in the floor from the show bar that was in the truck when I bought it. I also made a plate to cover the stock wiring harness/fuse block hole in the firewall. Then mounted the new line lock onto the plate. I also painted the roll cage. Still need to second coat I think. I hated painting the cage... much harder than painting a flat panel. Here are a few pictures I took today.

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCagepaint001.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCagepaint002.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCagepaint003.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCagepaint004.jpg


Jeff

[406shark]

Here are a couple more.


http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCagepaint005.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S10%20race%20truck/RollCagepaint006.jpg

Jeff

[Bakas]

do you have any pics of the new steering shaft?
what year cherokee did it come from? Thanks

[406shark]

do you have any pics of the new steering shaft?
what year cherokee did it come from? Thanks

I don't, but I'll take one next time I'm at the shop... hopefully tomorrow. I don't know what year, I just asked the girl who orders parts for my friends shop to order one for a mid 80's to early 90's Cherokee. It showed up about an hour later, and only cost me $20.00 delivered. It came frozen and unable to move. I soaked it with PB Blaster, put in a vise, hit it a couple of times with a hammer, she popped free. I cleaned it, then cut it to the correct length and installed.

Jeff

[406shark]

I forgot my camera this trip... sorry.

Installed the Cal-Trac setup and the Rancho shocks. Assembled and installed the driveshaft safety hoop. Sprayed the roll cage tubes that ran under the truck with spray-on undercoating. Also coated the areas that the chassis guy boxed in the frame at the cage mount points. Took the disc brakes apart, cleaned and lubed the slides. Planned how I wanted to route the new brake lines for the line-lock and adjustable proportioning valve.

That's about it for now. More to come.

Jeff

[bignate]

looks like your gonna have fun with the lower rad hose tight fit with the roll cage eh.
lookin good man keep it goin

[manyfire]

Dude that looks great, I need new skills!

[406shark]

Here are some shots of the interior at this point, more work to do...


http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/updates4-3-09001.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/updates4-3-09002.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/updates4-3-09005.jpg


Jeff

[406shark]

Here are a few more pictures. Some of the stuff in the bed, and under the hood.

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/updates4-3-09003.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/updates4-3-09004.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/updates4-3-09007.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/updates4-3-09008.jpg

Jeff

[406shark]

Here's the final one for today. Showing the driveshaft safety loop.

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/updates4-3-09006.jpg

More work to do Monday... I'm working this weekend. :(

Jeff

[manyfire]

dude you have mad skills, wish i lived close just to watch.

[manyfire]

to you racers this is problably a stupid question, what is the electric fan and coil in the bed for? I take it is a aux cooling for the motor or for somthin else?

[406shark]

to you racers this is problably a stupid question, what is the electric fan and coil in the bed for? I take it is a aux cooling for the motor or for somthin else?


That is my transmission cooler made by Derale.. I installed one with its own fan because of its location in the bed. I put it in the bed because I have a big azz electric fan in front of the radiator. Some racers don't use a tranny cooler, but I like to keep my transmission alive. I have a tranny temp gauge I'll be installing to track the temp. An automatic transmission lives and works best at 160-180 degrees from what I've been told.

Jeff

[406shark]

Here is the gauge panel I'll be installing this week. It was hand made so it's not perfect, but it will work. Not to mention it was free.


http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/gaugepanel002.jpg


http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/gaugepanel001.jpg


Jeff

[wild572s10]

your truck is coming along very nicely and keep up the good work

[406shark]

your truck is coming along very nicely and keep up the good work

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Here are a couple pictures from a couple hours ago. The last one is from the drivers (my)view. The gauges will probably be installed in the next week or so. I'm trying to decide if I should paint the panel or not? If so, what color?


http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/gaugepanel003.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/gaugepanel004.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/gaugepanel005.jpg


Jeff

[XTEN]

I'd leave it alone,but if you were to paint it I'd do it low gloss black,to draw your eye to the gauges.

[406shark]

I'd leave it alone,but if you were to paint it I'd do it low gloss black,to draw your eye to the gauges.


That was my thought as well.

Jeff

[406shark]

Alot of progress today, but little to actually show for it.
Finished plumbing the fuel system. Adjusted, bled, and completed the brake system. Drilled out the Dzus fastener rivets and installed new ones (old ones were the wrong size - loose). Finished the install of the B&M Pro Ratchet shifter - repacing the Hurst Quarter Stick shifter. Installed the mechanical oil pressure, water temp and trans temp gauges. Ran new tranny cooler lines back to the bed of the truck. Also ran new copper line for oil pressure, as the old gauge had plastic tubing. You can see in the gauge picture that the small top gauge (trans temp) does not match the other AutoMeter gauges. I really like the AutoMeter gauges, but I got the Derale trans temp gauge free. I'm still thinking about exactly where I want to install the tachometer. I plan on installing a master cut off switch on the left side of the gauge panel when doing the wiring.


Here is a shot of the new fuel pressure regulator installed.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/gaugepanel-cage-carb001.jpg

Here is a shot of the carb from the front.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/gaugepanel-cage-carb002.jpg

This is a shot of the gauge panel almost complete.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/gaugepanel-cage-carb003.jpg

Finally had 60 degree weather today... and I spent most of it in a garage.

Jeff

[XTEN]

Looks like you got alot done,Jeff,and it all looks great.Plumbing takes up alot of time(especially when you gotta go way back to the bed for the tranny cooler),which by the way is a really good idea.I thought the truck was nice when you bought it,but it just keeps getting better.All the work and equipment is top notch.I was gonna move my tach,but I dont know where to put it either.I was thinking of moving only the shift light to the far left of the top of the dash.Dont really have to stare at the tach with a blinding shift light in your face.It definately gets your attention.SHIFT!!!!!!

[406shark]

Looks like you got alot done,Jeff,and it all looks great.Plumbing takes up alot of time(especially when you gotta go way back to the bed for the tranny cooler),which by the way is a really good idea.I thought the truck was nice when you bought it,but it just keeps getting better.All the work and equipment is top notch.I was gonna move my tach,but I dont know where to put it either.I was thinking of moving only the shift light to the far left of the top of the dash.Dont really have to stare at the tach with a blinding shift light in your face.It definately gets your attention.SHIFT!!!!!!

Thanks,

I'm thinking along similar lines as you, mounting the tach off to the side and putting the shift light right on the top of the steering column where I can't miss it.

Everything takes alot longer than you think it will when trying to do it right. The glass guy is coming early next week to install a new windshield (the old one was cracked). Then I'm going to install the cowl panel, and cut the scoop part of the hood to give a small amount of opening at the windshield. When I bought the truck the scoop rested on the shield.

The previous owner ran a rubber line from the cell to the filter, then used a brass nipple from the filter directly to the fuel pump. He mounted the filter, but the fuel pump was not bolted to anything. It was just hanging off the filter... and he mounted the pump upsidedown! It took awhile to tear that all out and install new -8 line and a Holley Black pump.

I also ripped out the 4 gauge wire he had running power up to the starter. I just got a package from UPS Thursday that had 2/0 gauge welding cable to run power and ground up front. I have big plans (for me) to go all out with the wiring on this truck. I have an ARC brand 8000R flat switch panel that includes a relay center. I also bought a very nice grounding center. I plan on running a "floating ground" system. I'll be posting up some pretty detailed pictures and information on the wiring. The wiring will be the second to the last project. The last will be test and tune day!!!

Gotta get to bed... 17 family members coming over for Easter tomorrow.

Jeff

[harleyboy]

looking good man keep it up.

[bignate]

hey shark if you dont mind me asking what did it cost for that regulator setup id like to do someting like that like from the reg to the carb and that brakcet maybe some part numbers if you gotthe time apreciate it

[406shark]

I bought them about a year ago, but I pulled up the Summit listings for them currently. The regulator I bought is the big one, not the smaller one that comes with a Holley Blue pump. Either regulator will fit the bracket. The only problem is that if you use the larger regulator is the lack of air cleaner clearance. The regulator that I have (below) is twice as big as the other one, but I wanted the bigger ports.

On the lines, you're pretty much on your own. I ran -6 line from the regulator to the carb. I just installed one end onto the hose, then measured for the length needed. Trial and error.


Bracket

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D210250&N=700+115&autoview=sku


Regulator

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D12%2D704&N=700+400178+4294880914+115&autoview=sku


Jeff

[406shark]

looking good man keep it up.

Thanks, I appreciate it. When I talk to my wife about what I'm doing she's like blah, blah, blah. :) I thing she gets it from me when she brings up shoes and stuff.

Jeff

[bignate]

thanks shark you know once its runnin and she can ride in it she might change her mind
any woman will ride with a guy in a fast truck hahaha

[406shark]

thanks shark you know once its runnin and she can ride in it she might change her mind
any woman will ride with a guy in a fast truck hahaha

Not mine.

She didn't even like riding in my last Vette ('77). It was too loud for her, and that was only the fuel pump. It was a nice street/strip car. It ran 11.80-11.90's and drove to work multiple times per week 40+ miles round trip.

She barely rides in my newest stock '74 Vette convertible..."too noisey with the top down".

The S-10 will only have 1 seat... mine. Track only.

Jeff

[406shark]

This week has been busy at work, so very little was done to the truck. I'm working this weekend as well. The windshield is installed. I mounted a toggle switch to the left side of the gauge panel to kill power to the truck from inside quickly. I installed a panel to the passenger floor board to mount the electrical items onto. I installed pass thru terminals on the firewall for battery power under the hood. I also adjusted the neutral safety and backup light switches on the shifter. Made a panel to block off the factory shifter hole in the floor. Added a reinforcement to the transmission crossmember (the crossmember is a crappy homemade one). When the funds become available I'm getting a good crossmember. I ordered tinned battery terminal, and lug terminal ends for the cables. The wiring is going to end up costing a small fortune, but getting good parts adds up fast.

I'm trying to come up with the cash to order my new ignition system. Hoping to order this week.

Jeff

[406shark]

I had a couple of hours today. Installed the cowl panel. The previous owner didn't have the cowl panel on the truck when he fit the hood. Needless to say, the hood needed to be cut to fit to the cowl and the windshield. When purchased the scoop was resting on the hood.

I cut the hood to fit the cowl panel, then cut the scoop opening to rest 1" from the windshield. Then the fun part was cutting the Lexan for the rear window. It went better than I thought it would. Then I applied some window tint to give it "the look". I wanted the rear glass to match the side windows... it turned out pretty nice. It took my friend and I almost an hour to install the rear window because of the down tubes. I sat in the truck and decided where I want to mount the transbrake switch, and the tachometer... didn't install either today. That, and installing the tranny temp sensor comes tomorrow. Still trying to find the correct adapters to run the tranny lines.

More to come.

Jeff

[XTEN]

Sounds like you make the best of what little time you have to work on it.I guess that comes from having a good plan and executing.If I'm not mistaken,there is a low pressure area at the back of the cowl induction hood which would help with cold air to the motor,now that its not smack up against the windshield.

[406shark]

Sounds like you make the best of what little time you have to work on it.I guess that comes from having a good plan and executing.If I'm not mistaken,there is a low pressure area at the back of the cowl induction hood which would help with cold air to the motor,now that its not smack up against the windshield.

You are correct about having a plan. I've spent untold hours planning each step of the build. I believe in doing it right the first time. I've always followed the old saying, you don't have the time to do it right the first time, but you have time to do it twice?

Cowl induction scoops work best if they are fitted close to the windshield. Plus it looks cool!

The plan is to bring the truck over to my house Wednesday night to get ready to start the wiring process this weekend. I just placed my order with Summit Racing for a new distributer, ignition box, coil, wires, plugs, removable steering wheel adapter and something else small that I can't remember.

I hope to hit a local 1/8 mile test and tune Saturday the 2nd. Crossing my fingers.

Jeff

[85SS]

Coming along good Shark. Getting close. On you cowl to windshield gap. Is there any particular reason why you went 1"? When I fit mine I only went about 3/8 - 1/2". Think it needs more?

[406shark]

Coming along good Shark. Getting close. On you cowl to windshield gap. Is there any particular reason why you went 1"? When I fit mine I only went about 3/8 - 1/2". Think it needs more?

I talked with alot of people, and did alot of research about the cowl opening. Most said that 1" seemed to work well... some said less, but none said more. When I measured the factory cowl on my Corvette it was almost exactly 1" from the windshield. I figured GM must have done some research on the best placement... so that's what I went with. I'm not saying it's right, but that's how I decided.

Jeff

[-Deception-]

nice, been awhile sense ive been on and its really coming along

[85SS]

Gottcha, I just trimmed mine to fit and not hit. Was just wondering if there was some rule to it. Thanks for info.

[406shark]

Here are some pictures from today. They don't show all the work, but those will come.


Profile shot in my driveway showing the rear window.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/50profile-rearwindow.jpg

An electrical board I installed to hold all the components.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/46electricalpanel.jpg

A partially updated picture of the gauge cluster.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/47updatedcluster.jpg

The ARC soft touch control panel.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/48switchpanel.jpg


I installed the quick disconnect steering wheel kit. Took the steering wheel apart because it was chipped and the hardware was rusty. I masked it off and painted it with aluminum color paint, went to the hardware store and bought new bolts. I also now have an aluminum plate that fits over the left upper spoke with a momentary switch for the linelock. Installed new molded radiator hoses. Filled the coolant system with distilled water, and added some lubricant to protect the system. Installed a mushroom type momentary contact switch on the right side of the gauge cluster for the transbrake, a covered switch that will kill the truck completely from inside in case of a problem earlier. Mounted the ignition box, relay center, ground block and power point to the board. My neighbor helped me with making up new 2/0 battery cables and 4 gauge leads to power the relay center. Wired up the fuel pump using 2 contact MetriPack connecters, same thing I'm using on all the accessories.

More wiring to come on Sunday, hopefully we can finish it up then.

I work 3rd shift, so my schedule is out of wack. I worked Wed. night, slept 4.5 hours, then got up, worked last night, still up. Getting ready to hit the bed in a couple of minutes. I've currently been up for 31.5 hours... gotta sleep.

Jeff

[XTEN]

I bet you got a fortune in wiring and electronics.That stuff adds up fast.I like where you put the shift light.You'll definately see that.

[85SS]

Coming along goog Shark! Don't you just love wiring? Expecially the 2/0? lol I just did mine and it was a little bit of a pain. But guess it's all worth it in the end. What am I saying there is no end when it comes to race cars!! Keep it up.

[406shark]

Coming along goog Shark! Don't you just love wiring? Expecially the 2/0? lol I just did mine and it was a little bit of a pain. But guess it's all worth it in the end. What am I saying there is no end when it comes to race cars!! Keep it up.

Thanks. No, no I don't.

Spent 3 hours Friday night, and 6 hours today on the wiring. Still have the gauge lighting, taillights, linelock and pickup a couple of diodes to wire into the transbrake part of the wiring. It sure takes time, crimping, soldering, and using heatshrink. Not to mention using MetriPack connectors for all of the components... almost forgot figuring out where to run the wires.

This is at the start.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/53wiringmess.jpg

Another.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/54moremess.jpg

Here is the progress at this point.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/55wiringcomingalong.jpg


The plan is to finish up Tuesday night. I still have to install the new distributor, and pick up a couple of needed items to complete the wiring.

Jeff

[chris1972]

hey where did you get the board for the relays from

[406shark]

It came with the switch panel as a set from http://www.autorod.net/products/ . The setup also includes 8 different colored 14 gauge wires, but you need to supply your own ground wire material.

I bought it from Summit Racing, although others handle it as well. The model is the 8000R, the 8 is for the number of switches and the R is for rollbar mounting. I like that the switch panel has a red backlight feature that lets you know you have power to each switch, then the switches light turns green when you turn it on. It also carries a lifetime warranty. The relays are rated at 50 amps, but are fused from the factory at 30 amps. I'll show more detailed pictures later this week when everything is wired and working.

Jeff

[406shark]

Finally finished the wiring. Everything even works. :) I installed the new distributor, spark plugs and have the plug wires routed but not finalized. Tomorrow when I get off work I plan to make up the distributor ends of the plug wires. Then the plans are to fire it up. I'll post pictures tomorrow when there's some light out, and I can vacuum out the interior.

Jeff

[Bakas]

Nice cutting board lol! I used a piece of lexan I had laying around to mount all of my electrical. Its nice to have everything in one spot huh.

[406shark]

Nice cutting board lol! I used a piece of lexan I had laying around to mount all of my electrical. Its nice to have everything in one spot huh.

Yep... makes it much easier to work on, and find problems. I've always hated crawling around under a dash.

Jeff

[406shark]

Here are some pictures I took this morning after I finished making the sparkplug wires. Shows the electrical panel, the steering wheel - gauge panel, an overall interior, the distributor and the battery setup.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/56Updates-April29th.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/57Updates-April29th.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/58Updates-April29th.jpg


Plan to fire it up tomorrow and do some tuning, front end alignment, install and adjust the Cal-Trac's bars, and maybe even wash the truck.

Jeff

[406shark]

Here are the last couple for today.

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/59Updates-April29th.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/60Updates-April29th.jpg


Jeff

[BigMean]

Dam! Great job Jeff! Ready to hear how she runs!

Congrats!:D

Justin

[406shark]

Thank you sir.

Just got home from work, and going to be bringing the truck over to my friends shop to prep for the startup and tune work. I made a list of things to check over.

Adjust the shifter linkage. I pulled the pan to install the trans temp sensor and forgot to adjust the linkage... no park right now.
Double check all the wiring that was run under the truck.
Fill the fuel cell.
Install and adjust the bars on the Cal-Tracks.
Align the frontend.
Fire it up and tune it.
Wash it.
Install my name and comp numbers on the windows.

I'll have to see if I can find a video camera to film the startup.

I'm sure there will end up being more to do, but that's all I can think of for sure.

Jeff

[406shark]

I was able to fire "The Beast" up today. Before I installed the new distributor I locked out the advance (the ignition box I used allowed me to pull 10 degrees of timing out while starting). I then found TDC, moved the balancer to 36 degree BTDC, decided which distributor terminal I wanted to be #1 and I dropped the distributor in. It is a technique I've used with success for years.

Dropped the transmission pan again... lack of Park was not the shifter... repaired the parking pawl... now Park works... yeah. Decided since it was in the air I changed the oil and installed a new Wix filter. Verified that the wiring was routed properly. Adjusted the neutral safety switch and the reverse light switch to work properly. I had to make sure that the reverse switch worked properly because my Pro Tree transbrake requires you to engauge the transbrake to backup.
I wired the transbrake into the reverse light switch so it is automatic, and also into the large "mushroom" type momentary contact switch on the right side of the gauge panel to launch. I had to ask my neighbor how to install the diodes to make everything work. I also installed a red indicator light in the top of the shifter housing to illuminate whenever the transbrake is activated as well.

I also installed my NHRA Comp numbers and name. Had to install a ground wire from the fuel cell to ground that I forgot all about. Then I powered up the truck to test everything... it all worked. The front float was stuck initially, tapping on the bowl with a plastic headed hammer worked wonders. Then I adjusted the fuel pressure and decided the moment of truth was way past due.

It fired up within two revolutions of the engine and sounded great. It settled into a nice 1200 rpm idle. This thing is nasty sounding. Throttle response was instant. I hope it works as well on Saturday at the test and tune.

Pulled it onto the alignment rack and installed the bars for the Cal-Tracs, then did an alignment on it. Installed the foam protection on the roll cage areas around my helmet. As luck would have it... the only brake lines not replaced (on the rear) started leaking. Tomorrow picking up new rear hoses and running new hard line to go between them. If I get real motivated I have a new tailgate handle and drivers door handle to install... almost forgot... need to cut and install some carpet on the lower door panels.

My friend used his Blackberry to make a video of it running, he is going to attempt to e-mail it to me. If I get it, I'll post it up.

Here is a couple of pictures. Nothing really new, but I love the look with the white with the black hood and windows.

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/61Updates-April30th.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/63Updates-April30th.jpg

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/64Updates-April30th.jpg

Gotta get to sleep... been up for a little over 29 hours.


Jeff

[85SS]

Glad everthing works Shark, Ready to see what its gonna do. Let us know how saturday goes.

[406shark]

Today started out being great. Fired up the truck, checked the transbrake and linelock and both worked great. Let the engine warm up to operating temp...180. Then things started to go down hill quickly.

Engine coolant started to leak from the nipple that threads into the electric waterpump. Pulled the pump, removed the nipple, cleaned the threads and coated the threads with liquid teflon. Reinstalled the waterpump and filled coolant, started engine... no leak... perfect. Proceeded to pull the truck onto the trailer. My friend started looking under the truck while I was pulling it on. He pointed under the engine and I thought, what the hell?

There was oil leaking from the drivers side rear of the engine. Pulled the truck back off the trailer and put it on one of the twin post hoists. Cleaned everything off, tightened up the oil pressure line fitting for the gauge, checked the filter, checked the drainplug, nothing. Put some oil dye in and fired up the engine. Ran it for a couple of minutes and then raised it back into the air and turned on the light for checking for dye. There was a nice steady stream coming out of the cylinder head... shit!

So tomorrow instead of going to the track, the engine is getting torn down. I hate dealing with crap that someone else put together. The only engines I've never had problems with were those that I put together myself.

If I remember I'll bring my camera. Either way I'll update tomorrow night.

Jeff

[BigMean]

Dam Jeff, gemlins! Good luck with that.

Justin

[jameskirk57]

man that sucks...best of luck

[406shark]

Pulled the engine apart this morning... took about 45 minutes with hand tools. It took much longer to clean the surfaces and longer than that to find the correct gaskets.

It's hard to find intake and exhaust gaskets to match the ports on the Brodix Track 1 heads locally. Finally found some at one of the local autoparts warehouses about 20 miles away. We decided to have them put them on will-call for us to go pickup.

Started to reassemble the engine, it was going smooth until we started to adjust the valves. Some of the rockerarms were snugged down too tight... can you tell what happened next? Yep, while turning the engine over to adjust the valves we could hear a pop sound. Pulled some of the pushrods and found that there were a couple of them that had bent from the spring pressures being so high and the rockers being not adjusted correctly.

So the truck is sitting on the trailer waiting for me to place another order with Summit for a new set of pushrods. I've never seen a set of hardened chromemoly pushrods with a .080" wall thickness bend so easy. I guess these springs must really have some high pressures.

Anyway, there goes another $100.00 for pushrods. I wouldn't mind as much if I didn't have to wait until Tuesday or Wednesday to get them. The next test and tune day isn't until the 16th, and that's at a 1/4 mile track... oh well. I'm really bummed that I missed todays T&T. I was looking forward to the first runs to be at the local 1/8th mile... they put down a new surface last summer.

I guess I'll have to think about mounting up the 29.5" slicks instead of the current 28.00" ones for the 1/4?

There wasn't much to take pictures of today, but I did take a couple of the engine being torn down with my cell phone. I may post them up later.

Jeff

[XTEN]

Stupid question,Jeff,was it a head gasket(I'm assuming)or was it a crack in the head,or a warp,or something else?

[406shark]

As stupid as it sounds, I'm not 100% sure. The head gaskets showed no signs of leaking. A few of the head bolts showed signs of leaking. There is a small oil plug that mounts on the top of the rear rail, it is partially hidden by the drivers side head when installed. It showed signs of leaking as well. The heads were checked with a friends machinists level... max clearance was .003" in one area... shouldn't be a problem. I guess we'll see when it gets fired up at the end of the week?

I do need to check the jets in the carb, it's running really rich from the look of the sparkplugs. They are all coated in dry black soot.

Here are a couple of pictures I took yesterday with my cheap cellphone... I forgot my camera.

Jeff

http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/65Updates-May2nd.jpg


http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/66Updates-May2nd.jpg

[bignate]

shark just a quick thought i had the same problem on a baravada i did headgaskets on check your heads and make sure the holes were drilled for the jacket studs that hold the gaskt and heads inplace. it held te head up just far enough that it wouldnt leak till after 3 hrs run time because it just pressed the jacket stud down in the hole farther. just a thougt man

[406shark]

I've had that happen in the past. The dowel pin was not seated in the block far enough and it caused the head to not sit completely fluch.

Thanks for the brain jog.

Jeff

[406shark]

Today I found out what caused my rich running condition.

The jetting was waaaay off. The primary jets are 89, and the secondaries are 90's. The Pro-Form body comes with 72's and 84's. The acc. pumps are 50cc on both sides, with a 6.5" PV.

My friend has a Holley 950HP that is stock, and ready to go. He said that I could throw it on the S-10 to see how well it works for me. The plan is to throw the 950HP on for the maiden voyage and see what she'll do.

The pushrods will be here tomorrow, and I'll be installing them Friday morning.

Jeff

[85SS]

Sweet. Nice to have friends that want to help. So when is the next T&T?

[406shark]

Sweet. Nice to have friends that want to help. So when is the next T&T?

Yep... it's nice having friends. He used to work at The Carb Shop years ago, and he knows carbs.

The next T&T is the 16th, but the only problem is it's a 1/4 miles track instead of the 1/8th mile that was having a T&T last weekend. Oh well, I'll just use more fuel having to travel twice the distance. I really wanted to spend most of the day working on the 60' times, and making sure it leaves hard and straight before running it out the back door.

Jeff

[harleyboy]

well glad that you are getting to the point of testing it in the right way have fun.

[406shark]

I got the pushrods installed, the valves adjusted, everything else installed. I installed the borrowed 950-HP. Put power to the truck, cycled the fuel pump switch a few times to fill the fuel bowls... fuel leaking from the bowls or acc. pumps... not sure which? Called my friend that gave me the carb to use. I didn't want to mess with his carb. He said he'd be down at the shop Saturday morning with his 'Cuda to install a new center section and would bring parts with him.

I pulled the carb this morning so he could work on the bench instead of bending over this low truck. He's 6'4" and I figured my back hurts after time bent over the fenders, and I'm only 5'8".

Installed new gaskets and snugged everything back up. Reinstalled the carb, the engine fired up with no problem. I had to take off early for my grandaughters birthday party, so the tuning part will have to wait until Monday morning. I'm going to run the truck up the street after the tuning and have them install a couple of turnouts for the fenderwell headers. Any dust within 20 feet of the truck when it's running turns into a hell of a dust cloud! Gonna have the turnouts come out behind the front tires.

My friend wants to load the truck onto his flatbed tow truck next week and find a deserted road to run it up and down to check things out before next Saturday's T&T. We'll see if I'm feeling lucky or not.

Jeff

[406shark]

I almost forgot...

I finally found out exactly what camshaft is in this engine.

It was bought from Doug Herbert, but it is also listed by Competition Cams. The Comp Cams part number is 12-727-9.

Specs:

Solid Roller
Lift .660 intake and .630 exhaust
Duration @ .050" 280 intake 292 exhaust
106 degree centerline

It's no wonder it sounds so nasty!

Jeff

[85SS]

I had to put the turn outs on mine also. The first time I backed it out of the shop into the gravel drive, I about lost the truck.lol It changed the sound alot. I actually like the sound of them straight down better. My exhaust shop couldn't bend 3.5 pipe so they took some old diesel exhaust and cut 2 90's out and made those fit. Whatever works right.

[406shark]

If it wasn’t for bad luck, I don’t think I’d have any luck lately.

Went to the track today for test & tune day. Made it up to tech… no problem at all, passed with flying colors. Fired up the truck to let it warm up, it was in the low 50’s earlier today with a head wind of 25-30 mph.

Went up to the line, spun the slicks up enough to clean off the water. No plan of leaving the line hard first pass. Launched with foot brake and went about ½ throttle, then shifted at 5000 rpm into second and pushed the throttle almost to the floor while going into 3rd gear (also at 5000 rpm). Rolled off the throttle at the 1000’ mark and coasted thru the traps.

Time slip – 1st run

60’ 1.920
330’ 5.179
1/8 7.888
MPH 90.89
1000 10.348
1/4 12.913
MPH 82.07

Truck went straight, brakes allowed me to use the first turnoff road.

Second run was similar to the first, except I brake torqued the engine up to 2500 rpm, pushed the throttle a little harder, shifted into second at 6200 rpm, went full throttle and shifted into third at 6200 rpm and let off the throttle slightly before the finish line.

Time slip – 2nd run

60’ 1.833
330 5.055
1/8 7.705
MPH 93.08
1000 9.983
1/4 11.931
MPH 114.82


Pulled into the pits, pulled the hood to adjust the valves and check the plugs. There was oil all over the front of the engine. Looks like the front timing cover crank seal is leaking. The plugs showed the carb is waaaay too rich.

Decided to load it onto the trailer instead of attempting to run it with the oil leaking. What’s that old saying? Live to fight another day.

Jeff

[Bakas]

Oil leaks suck huh... I had a dipstick problem when I made my shakedown run. Glad to hear your finally out driving it. You guys put that thing together fasst! Hope things go better next time out.

[406shark]

Thanks, and yes they do.

I believe the engine has too much crankcase pressure. I wish that I had the money to install a vacuum pump. I'm not running a PCV valve, just two breathers. I figured the engine isn't going to make enough vacuum on its own to make a PCV valve work properly?

Any cheap alternatives that work?

I want to leave the line hard enough to have traction problems to work on instead of oil leaks.

Jeff

[Bakas]

mabey try the e-vac tube kit. Thats what I have, its just 2 heater hoses comming out of the valve covers into the collectors. Im still blowing out my dipstick so I have to tie it down. I dont think they work that good, but probably doing something lol. A vac. pump is the way to go.

[406shark]

I too used the e-vac system on my last Vette, it worked somewhat, but I don't want to do it twice. Any factory application pumps that would work you know of?

Jeff

[Bakas]

I too used the e-vac system on my last Vette, it worked somewhat, but I don't want to do it twice. Any factory application pumps that would work you know of?

Jeff

Heres an old thread, mabey stroker will chime in here. Im not sure if he's running a pump or not?

http://www.s10v8.com/showthread.php?t=13819

[85SS]

I had to put one of the evac kits on my truck last year. Kept blowing the dip stick and breathers out. It solved my problems. The kit I used was just a cheap Mr. Gasket one I ordered from a O'rielly's store.

[406shark]

I checked it close last night, it's not leaking when sitting at idle or low rpm.

It appears that it only leaks under high rpm, and or when letting off the throttle at the end of the track.

I think I'm going to need something that will pull more vacuum than the inexpensive evac system will pull.

Jeff

[406shark]

I pulled the front of the engine down and replaced the front cover seal. Going to put it back together later this weekend. Before pulling it apart I did a compression test to see if the pressure was caused by bad rings, etc.

All cylinders were between 175-190 psi except cylinder number 5, it showed 230 psi!

After I put the front of the engine back together I'm going to check my valve lash and see what's going on.

I have to decide if I want to switch over to E85, or tune the carb for 110 octane race gas. I have to get the carb situation fixed and have to decide which fuel system to go with.

I'll update when I find out what's going on with the compression.

Jeff

[406shark]

Sorry I haven't updated in awhile. Work has been nuts lately.

The engine is back together, and the valves adjusted... again.

I found that the reason #5 was so high compared to the others... the #5 intake valve was way looser than the others. I'm surprised it ran the times it did with the valves set like that. They are now all adjusted properly... I did them myself with nobody around "helping".

I found out one of the reasons I was running so rich... the fuel pressure regulator was set up to 9 psi. I'm not sure who was playing with it, but it is set back to 6.5 psi where it should be. I'm going to install a different PV with a lower vacuum number. I believe the PV is opening at idle due to the engine not making much vacuum.

I did get a air cleaner assembly to fit. It has a raised base with a 5" K&N filter. I had to go with a spacer to help clear the regulator.

My friend who owns the shop is in contact with some of his suppliers looking for a vacuum pump for us to install. The next T&T is Saturday the 13th, and it's at the 1/8th mile track. There is a "Muscle Car Shootout" race on Father's Day I want to run the truck at. So the test and tune timing is critical.

I don't remember if I said how I got the turnouts for the headers done. I ordered a 3" U pipe from Summit, then cut it down the middle (almost middle - one header comes down farther than the other one) and tack welded them in place after shortening up the header collectors. The turnouts fit nice and tight, and come out at an angle right behind the front tires. I'll take my camera with me later this week and take more pictures.

Jeff

[85SS]

Glad you figured out your problem. And that it wasn't anything serious. Hope the T&T goes well. Good luck.

[XTEN]

Glad you figured out your problem. And that it wasn't anything serious. Hope the T&T goes well. Good luck.Yep,what SS said.

[406shark]

The carb and intake that I have does not have any vacuum ports, so it makes it hard to get a vacuum reading. I installed a spare 3/8" thick spacer with a vacuum port built in.

Fired up the engine and at 1200 rpm idle it only has 6" of vacuum. I guess I was right about the power valve adding extra fuel at idle. I ran up to the carb shop and picked up a new 3.5" power valve. It will allow the engine to not run so rich at idle... I hope.

After researching a vacuum pump to remove pressure buildup at an affordable price I bought an electric pump designed for a 1998 Ford Mustang Cobra. Many have had great results with this particular pump. Plans are to install the new power valve tomorrow, and then make up a bracket to install the vacuum pump as well.

I already put my camera in the truck to bring down to the shop so I can take some pictures for those interested.

Jeff

[406shark]

I removed the carb today and removed the bowels to change out the power valve. Changed everything over, but didn't have the correct jets that I wanted to use. It currently has 78's and 88's... not good. These used carbs are driving me crazy. It still won't idle worth a damn with the old carb on it. The 950 I borrowed is leaking like crazy. The owner of the carb stopped by the shop, he proceeded to tighten the bowel screws to stop the new gaskets from leaking... yep, you guessed it, he stripped one of the mount holes. The only good thing is at least he did it, not me.

I think I may just order a new carb Monday?

The vacuum pump took forever to make a bracket to mount it to the inner fender. I'll be installing the hoses Monday.

Here is an overall shot of the engine.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/67Updates-June6th.jpg

Here is a closeup shot of the vacuum pump.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/68Updates-June6th.jpg

And finally for today, the kickout I attached to the fenderwell headers.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/Updates-June6th.jpg


Jeff

[bignate]

god man everytime i look at your engine bay i feel like mines in bad shape haha!lookin good man

[chris1972]

whats wrong is the carb runnig rich or not getting enough fuel ..i had the same problem on mmine had a big cam like 280 at .050 ..so i had to in large the idle feed holes in the metering block (the idle feed restrictions) and the idle transfer slots too.drill holes to close the throttle plates.

[406shark]

god man everytime i look at your engine bay i feel like mines in bad shape haha!lookin good man

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Can't wait to get it on the track again next weekend.

Jeff

[406shark]

whats wrong is the carb runnig rich or not getting enough fuel ..i had the same problem on mmine had a big cam like 280 at .050 ..so i had to in large the idle feed holes in the metering block (the idle feed restrictions) and the idle transfer slots too.drill holes to close the throttle plates.

The problem with this carb is the previous owner of the truck. He attempted to make this carb run on E-85 without using the proper parts and knowledge. He put huge jets, 50cc pumps on both primary and secondary, and I don't know what else. It ran pretty good on my friends 950HP, even with leaking bowls and the wrong jetting.

I'm going to call Patrick at Pro Systems Carburators and have him spec out a carb for my truck. From everyone I talk to, they have been very happy with his carbs.

Jeff

[chris1972]

if this could help i do have set of 830 metering blocks with the big idle circuit...if you pay shipping i will give them to you

[406shark]

That sounds good. Maybe I can get this carb to wrok. I'll send you a PM with a shipping address.

Thanks,
Jeff

[chris1972]

That sounds good. Maybe I can get this carb to wrok. I'll send you a PM with a shipping address.

Thanks,
Jeff

i sent you pm back about the info

[406shark]

Well today I decided to go for broke, and ordered a new custom built carb for my engine. I ordered it from Patrick at Pro Systems. http://www.prosys12.macwebsitebuilder.com/proseries4150.html

I decided because everything else has been done right when it came to building the truck, not to attempt to make my old carb work. The race season is too short up here in Minnesota to spend countless days at the track trying to sort out a carb.

I've heard nothing but good about his carbs, and his great tech support after the sale. The carb should be here either Wednesday or Thursday. Plan is to install it Friday morning. I'll update with pictures later in the week.

Test and tune Saturday at the local 1/8 mile track... yeah!

Jeff

[92blazer4wdv8]

....less time fixing more time playing.....is what I think lol.... good luck at the T+T....JD

[406shark]

....less time fixing more time playing.....is what I think lol.... good luck at the T+T....JD

That's my thought at this time, and thanks.

Jeff

[406shark]

These new build bugs are really beginning to piss me off.

Carb worked great. Loaded truck up and headed out to the local (if you can call 90 miles away local) 1/8th mile track. First run, went into the burnout box and spun the tires up until trace amounts of smoke showed and pulled up. Truck started running like crap... great. Well I decided to go ahead and run it down the track. It died on the starting line during the tree counting down. I had tried to run it up against the rev limiter with the trans brake button on, then it died. I just walked it off the line with it running like crap. Ran a terrible 8.13 at 93 mph. Pulled it into the pits and it was backfiring thru the headers. Started trying to diagnose the problem. Tried 3 different carbs, with and without spacer. Adjusted the valves, adjusted all 3 carbs more times than I can remember. Found that the 110 octane in the cell was a year old (one of the other racers informed me that the station I bought from had an old batch). Drained the cell of 8+ gallons of useless $5.85 a gallon liquid. Bought 5 gallons of fresh 110 octane from the track ($45.00). Still didn't fix the problem. My brother in law was there with his Vette (my old race car) so I pulled his ignition box off the Vette and hooked it up to the S-10 thinking the box could be the problem. Nope, ran the same. Pulled the wires and checked with an ohm meter, checked good. Checked the dist. cap, plugs... all good.

Went and bought a couple of overpriced burgers and watched some of the cars run. Loaded the truck up and headed home. My friend has a smoke machine that he uses to find vacuum leaks. We hooked it up and found that the front of the intake manifold had smoke pouring out. Decided it was time to go home for the day.

Tomorrow I'm going to the shop and pull the intake. I want to take it to the Muscle Car Shootout next Sunday for Fathers Day. Wish me luck.

Here is a shot at the track... it the pits.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/70Updates6-13-09002.jpg

Here is a shot of the new carb from Pro-Systems...
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq11/406shark/S-10%20updates/69Updates6-13-09001.jpg

My friend took a video of the one and only failed run, he just needs to figure out how to get it on his computer. When he gets it to me, I'll post a link.


Jeff

[chris1972]

that sucks dude i been waiting to here how fast it is..what are you running for a vac system how much those it pull

[harleyboy]

your not the only one I want to hear how fast it is.

[85SS]

Man that sucks. How come everything seems to be great until you get to the track? That's my luck 2. Lol. Good luck with it and good luck at the Father's Day race.

[woodyboy]

looks great, have fun............

[406shark]

Today went good, for a change.

Installed new intake gaskets. Put everything back together. Hooked up the smoke machine... no leaks. Started engine up. Adjusted idle screw to bring engine down to 1200 rpm idle. Adjusted air mixture screws. Running great! It's back to sounding nasty... not like I'm shooting someone with it.

I'm ready for the Muscle Car ShootOut this Sunday. I'm still trying to find someone to come and take pictures and video.

I'll update after the weekend.

Jeff

[406shark]

that sucks dude i been waiting to here how fast it is..what are you running for a vac system how much those it pull

I'm running an injecter pump from a 1998 Ford Mustang Cobra, it's an electric model. I don't know what vacuum it's pulling yet, I'll know after running it down the track this weekend. I'll let you guys know.

Jeff

[406shark]

I ran it down the track today, 12 runs, at the 1/8th mile track for a test and tune day. It ran good, but not quick. Either the guy I bought the truck from lied to me about the converter, or there's something wrong with it. The converter would only stall to 3000 rpm against the transbrake. The truck was a slug out of the hole. It was very consistant, 11 of the runs were within 7 hundreths of each other and the other run spread it out to 12 runs within 9 hundreths of a second. Just what I was looking for to bracket race with a chance of sucess.

If you go to "You Tube" and look under my screen name, 406shark, you can see the videos that were taken today. The camera work was NOT very good, but it will give you an idea. The video labeled 1st run...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ModP...eature=channel




has a hell of a burnout, I pumped up the brakes... and the linelock held, but it stuck and took a while to release. The following burnouts were without incident. I had my friends wife take 5 videos, and they are all up right now. My friend said next time he would do the video work.

I have to do some research and maybe buy a new converter to get the rpm up to where they need/want to be.

Jeff

[85SS]

At least it is consistant. My truck did the same way. It was a turd off the line till about 45ft. Wouldn't 60 ft better than a 1.54. Best run of 7.45 Change convertor 4 times thinking it wasn't stalling good. Finally after the 4th time the guy at PTC where I got the convertor said I had another issue that it wasn't in my convertor. Told me to check cam timing and carb tune. Come to find out my cam was degreed wrong. Redegreed it and it went 1.46 60ft and 7.31. Not saying thats your problem but may look into it. Cheaper than a new convertor. Good runs though. Glad to see it on the track.

[406shark]

The problem is my engine is built to make its power starting at 5000 rpm, and the torque converter will only stall to 3000 rpm. If you look closely at the slicks on one of the videos the suspension is hitting the slicks, but not hard enough. My 60' is only in the 1.77's, and the tires are not spinning at all. It doesn't bog, or spin... it's like I'm driving it quickly away from a stop light... not the way to get a quick et.

The converter is supposed to be a 5600 rpm stall... not even close.

Jeff

[85SS]

Yeah after watching all the videos I noticed it wasn't bogging or anything. Mine just bogged the went. What brand convertor you got? Can you have it loosened or you gonna have to by new?

[406shark]

Yeah after watching all the videos I noticed it wasn't bogging or anything. Mine just bogged the went. What brand convertor you got? Can you have it loosened or you gonna have to by new?

I have no idea what brand it is. I'll probably have to buy a new one. First I'm going to put it on a chassis dyno to see where it makes power before ordering a new one.

I thought about throwing a small nitrous shot at it off the line to get up to speed quicker. :)

Maybe hit it with a 100-150 shot to get it moving. My friend says nitrous is cheating...


Jeff

[85SS]

I have no idea what brand it is. I'll probably have to buy a new one. First I'm going to put it on a chassis dyno to see where it makes power before ordering a new one.

I thought about throwing a small nitrous shot at it off the line to get up to speed quicker. :)

Maybe hit it with a 100-150 shot to get it moving. My friend says nitrous is cheating...


Jeff

My friends say the same thing. LOL

[XTEN]

My friends say the same thing. LOLTwo buddies that build motors say the same thing,but they cant show me anything in the rulebook.They get kinda pissy when the subject comes up,and it always does.

[chris1972]

The problem is my engine is built to make its power starting at 5000 rpm, and the torque converter will only stall to 3000 rpm. If you look closely at the slicks on one of the videos the suspension is hitting the slicks, but not hard enough. My 60' is only in the 1.77's, and the tires are not spinning at all. It doesn't bog, or spin... it's like I'm driving it quickly away from a stop light... not the way to get a quick et.

The converter is supposed to be a 5600 rpm stall... not even close.

Jeff

i had the same 60ft time with my old converter ..was a 3500 and i installed a 4500 and retune and old times was 11.52 new times was 10.80..i don't have the truck now ..but i did run into the guy who got it know and boy it hit hard now when leaving with out a transbrake..

[85SS]

What kind of hp do you think your combo makes? What are you looking for on the chassis dyno. It's a pretty healthy 355 I would think 10's would be fairly easy after you get the convertor staightened out. Are you gonna bracket race 1/4 or 1/8?

[406shark]

What kind of hp do you think your combo makes? What are you looking for on the chassis dyno. It's a pretty healthy 355 I would think 10's would be fairly easy after you get the convertor staightened out. Are you gonna bracket race 1/4 or 1/8?


I have no idea what the horsepower is. I thought the chassis dyno would help choosing a torque converter, but after talking with a local converter builder I'll save the money. He said to pull it and bring it in. He'll cut it apart and tell me what the problem is... no charge.

He said it sounded like the sprag may have let go? Or more serious issues.

I'm going to pull the converter either Thursday or Friday to take it in. I too thought it should be in the 10's without much problem.

Most of the racing will be in the 1/4 mile, maybe a couple of times a year at the 1/8th mile track.


Jeff

[XTEN]

Honestly I dont know what a chassis dyno would tell you.I looked at the vid and it seems the launch is the only place there is room for improvement.Dyno is hi gear and mat it.Doesnt seem to be ANY problem in hi gear at all,or hp for that matter.Whats the mph in the 1/4?I appologise if its been posted,I couldnt find it.

[406shark]

Ran the truck down to the scales to see what the weight was at.

Truck with me in it (170 pounds with helmet) was 2920 with 42% on the rearend.

Pulled the transmission (pain due to the JW bellhousing) and removed the torque converter. Took it over to a converter builder for them to cut it open. No broken parts, but the clearances were way off. I won't pretend to understand converters. The guy said the fins on one half didn't look like they would create a high stall, the other half did?

They will call tomorrow and let me know how much to build it like I need. Then I have to decide to either do that, or just buy a new converter.


Jeff

[85SS]

42% on the rear isn't bad for a truck. Truck seems kinda heavy though!
I haven't weighted mine this year yet. But last year with the 383 and glass in the doors it only weighted 2518 with me in it. With 44% on the rear. Not sure what it will weight this year.

[406shark]

42% on the rear isn't bad for a truck. Truck seems kinda heavy though!
I haven't weighted mine this year yet. But last year with the 383 and glass in the doors it only weighted 2518 with me in it. With 44% on the rear. Not sure what it will weight this year.


Yea, I thought it was pretty heavy as well. Maybe I should go on a diet... taking my weight out it is right at 2750. I guess adding the full cage didn't help. Not to mention the turbo 400, the 9" ford axle, the 4 core full size truck radiator and the chrome steel wheels.

I spoke with the converter builder today, he recommended a 9" spragless converter with a 4700-4800 rpm stall. He said it would be ready to pickup by Tuesday.


Jeff

[406shark]

I haven't had anything to update lately... still waiting on the converter that was due Tuesday.

They promised delivery tomorrow morning first thing. There is a test and tune on Saturday at the local 1/8 mile track. Plan to take it out for testing.

We have the Car Craft Summer Nationals in town this weekend, so I plan on heading out there on Sunday to look around. I'm itching to trade off my Vette for something different... I've had it 3 years now, and get board with owning something too long.


Jeff

[85SS]

Cool, Good luck with the testing. Maybe they will have your convertor the way you want it.

[406shark]

Cool, Good luck with the testing. Maybe they will have your convertor the way you want it.


I sure hope so. Getting ready to head down to the shop at 11:00. I'm going to take a few pictures.


Jeff

[S1KN3SS]

Just spent quite awhile reading this thread. I see your from Minnesota to. Where abouts are you racing your truck? It looks very good by the way.

[406shark]

Just spent quite awhile reading this thread. I see your from Minnesota to. Where abouts are you racing your truck? It looks very good by the way.

Thanks.

I run it at either Rock Falls (1/4 mile) or Grove Creek (1/8 mile) depending on their schedules. Next planned day will be Sunday August 2nd at Rock Falls, they are having a Muscle Car Shootout.


Jeff

[406shark]

Last weekend it ran pretty well. Still not where I want it. There was a photographer taking pictures of the burnouts and some of the launches. The one below turned out nice, I ordered a 8.5 x 11" print.

http://www.photoreflect.com/pr3/orderpage.aspx?pi=09PI007M010009&po=9

I don't think the tires came off the ground, but it felt close. I'm still not happy with the 60 foots... 1.61 - 1.66, or the 1/4 mile times... 11.60's.


Jeff

[85SS]

Hey Jeff, how is the truck doing? Haven't heard from ya in a while.

[406shark]

Going to the track again this weekend. Nothing is new with the truck. Still unhappy with the torque converter. Talked to the builder of the converter, he agreed to redo it for free. I'm going to pull the engine this winter and freshen it up. Then have it run on the dyno to get the builder solid numbers to work from.

Just found out this morning that my friend arraigned to buy an enclosed 26' trailer to haul the S-10 to and from the track... sweet.

I'll post up after this weekends races.


Jeff

[406shark]

Ran the truck today at test & tune. It was running 11.589 - 11.621 for all 12 runs.

The converter is holding me back... bad.

I can shift at anywhere from 5000 - 6500 rpm and it et's the same... A friend has an "extra" 9" converter laying around his shop that he said I could have to try out. Tomorrow is a bracket points race day. Left the truck loaded and going out tomorrow again. I figured seeing as it's running pretty consistant right now I'd see how I do.

Next week I'm going to throw the converter in my friend offered, and take it to the track in 2 weeks to see what it'll do.

Gotta get to sleep... 5:30am comes up quick.

Jeff

[406shark]

Today was a mixture of good, and bad.

The good... the truck ran its best time today... 11.544 with a 60' of 1.597.
The bad... red light in round one. :(
Like they say, a bad day racing is better than a good day working.

They only gave us three trial runs, about 1.5 hours between them. The times were 11.546, 11.571, and the 11.544. Then we had another 1.5 hours before the first round of competition. The guy I was racing was dialed in at 15.21 to my 11.54 dial. I haven't had that much of a spread before. I got too excited and hit the red light with a -0.030. Not to mention the guy I was running had two perfect reaction times plus a .001 reaction time. I'm gonna have to work on my reaction times.


Jeff

[XTEN]

That seems like forever,dont it?

[406shark]

That seems like forever,dont it?

I always like to leave last as it gives you two shots at a win (he could redlight), and I like to run them down at the finish. Before yesterday my biggest difference was less than 2 seconds. The guy that I lost to was running his tow rig, his race car broke a round earlier.

Anyone have any good tips at leaving on a really good light? There were 11 perfect lights yesterday, and one guy ran a .003 package and still lost to a .002 package. That had to be a heart breaker.

Jeff

[XTEN]

I always like to leave last as it gives you two shots at a win (he could redlight), and I like to run them down at the finish. Before yesterday my biggest difference was less than 2 seconds. The guy that I lost to was running his tow rig, his race car broke a round earlier.

Anyone have any good tips at leaving on a really good light? There were 11 perfect lights yesterday, and one guy ran a .003 package and still lost to a .002 package. That had to be a heart breaker.

JeffOur track goes 4 didgets.Last time I did a .0004,0017,0023.Believe it or not,I asked the Kids wife.She had 4 perfect lights in 2 weeks!!!Now,you cant call that a fluke.The Kid's had quite a few,too.She said stage as shallow as you can.Take the time that the last yellow is on,and leave in 1/4 of the time the last yellow is on.I guess by the time you react,and roll out of the beam,the green's on.It seems to work.My last run was louzy,but rt was 0004.I ran a 12.14,and beat a car that ran 11.87 heads up.Does your track still use incandescent,or LED's?I used to stare at the filament in the last yellow.As soon as it would start to glow,Id leave.When they went to LED's a couple years ago,I got all balled up,and couldnt cut a light to save my life.I'd rather leave first.The real depressing part is when someone comes around you.I get waaay too antzy sittin there.

[406shark]

They are using the incandescent bulbs. I leave when the last yellow is fully lit. I think I need to dial in my positioning to get the truck to leave consistantly. Sometimes the truck moves forward a little when applying the transbrake, sometimes it stays put. It's not helping with my rt's.

Jeff

[XTEN]

They are using the incandescent bulbs. I leave when the last yellow is fully lit. I think I need to dial in my positioning to get the truck to leave consistantly. Sometimes the truck moves forward a little when applying the transbrake, sometimes it stays put. It's not helping with my rt's.

JeffTry staring at the filament.As soon as you see it start to glow,leave.Do you deep stage?I never used a transbrake.I have enough problems with what I got.Im just glad it dead hooks.You got a hell of a bracket truck there,Jeff.Dead nuts consistent.Are you happy with the converter?Is the truck pushing,or does it just drift a bit when you apply the trans brake?

[406shark]

Try staring at the filament.As soon as you see it start to glow,leave.Do you deep stage?I never used a transbrake.I have enough problems with what I got.Im just glad it dead hooks.You got a hell of a bracket truck there,Jeff.Dead nuts consistent.Are you happy with the converter?Is the truck pushing,or does it just drift a bit when you apply the trans brake?

I tried that, but hit the red light 4 out of 5 times. I don't deep stage. I'm not happy with the converter... too low of a stall speed. It only stalls at 3600 rpm on the brake. A couple of times the truck kind of jumped forward after letting off the foot brake pedal. When it did, it only moved about 3-4 inches. It wasn't enough to go to deep stage, but it was deeper than I normally go. I try and just barely light the stage bulb. The way the truck leaves right now I'm not sure if I'm going to change anything until I get the converter figured out. I have a feeling I may yank the tires out of the beam with the right converter. The front comes up and just about tops out the front suspension leaving at 3500 rpm. I have the feeling that when I get the stall up to about 4700 rpm or so its going to pull the tires off the ground.


Jeff

[XTEN]

Apparently your reactions are better than mine,if you red light on the filament.Or your truck leaves alot faster than mine,probably both.Sounds like your truck leaves pretty good now.Should be even better with the converter loosened up.I wouldnt change anything either(other than the converter)until you get the new one in there.

[85SS]

Shark, do have consistant rt times? Even if they are not great. Consistant can help. Because you can dial in your rt time with your front tire pressure.

I have watched alot of the guys that run transbrake and they stage kinda deep so that when they go to the tbrake and it rolls just a bit it will turn the second stage off. I guess that way they know they are staged to about the same spot.

[406shark]

Shark, do have consistant rt times? Even if they are not great. Consistant can help. Because you can dial in your rt time with your front tire pressure.

I have watched alot of the guys that run transbrake and they stage kinda deep so that when they go to the tbrake and it rolls just a bit it will turn the second stage off. I guess that way they know they are staged to about the same spot.

I wish my reaction times were consistant. I played around with different shades of yellow and came out with what you see below.

My four rounds on Sunday were as follows, in order.
.087
.057
.018
-.030

I tried to sneak up on it, and went right past the sweet spot.

The plan is to get the converter situation fixed. Then tune the truck to work with my reaction times. I like to leave when the last yellow just starts to come on, but I redlight doing that with this truck. I'll get it, but I don't want to change much until the converter problem is solved.


Jeff

[85SS]

Yep. 1 thing at a time. But if your leaving on the 3 yellow and turning it red try letting a little air out of your front tires. I have found that 1psi can make around .006 difference in my reaction time. Works well for me. And if your slow off the tree add some. Worth a shot.

[406shark]

It looks like the S-10 is going to get put away for the season. We got 3.5 - 4.5 inches of snow, and it's hanging around. :(

There is one last race this season on the 25th. I'm hoping the weather will be good enough for racing. Once the season is over for good I'll be pulling the engine out of the truck to go thru it over the winter. I will be posting the process of tearing down the engine and going thru everything getting ready for next season in this post.

Stay tuned...


Jeff

[85SS]

Maybe the weather will break and you can race the last race. I have already retired mine this year.

[redneckgames]

WHERE HAVE I BEEN?????????????

great thread. Awesome truck. It makes me want to build/buy a drag only truck. I really dont think there is anything about it that I dont like. It is exactly how I would want one.

I hope you can get the converter situation taken care of. That must suck. What is going to suck even more is us having to wait until next year to read more about it!!

[hotrodrob72745]

mines white too. i like the look that it gives. mite repaint mine in white

[406shark]

I'm really hoping that the weather will cooperate so I can run it one more time this season.

I think the coverter issue will be solved over the winter.

I was planning on changing color, but I really like the white and black look. I'm going to run it a least one more season with the current color combo.

I need to buy a new set of slicks next spring. I think I'm going to go with a set of 29.5x10.50 slicks. Right now it goes through the traps at 7100-7200 rpm.


Jeff

[SassyV8]

I bet it's going to be a nasty weather this year...I am in ohio and frost warning. last year wasn't so cold. This year seems early.needs to be in Florida where Mike is soaking up the hot sun.

[406shark]

I bet it's going to be a nasty weather this year...I am in ohio and frost warning. last year wasn't so cold. This year seems early.needs to be in Florida where Mike is soaking up the hot sun.

I agree...

As I get older I keep thinking there has to be somewhere that has warm weather, low/no taxes, and multiple race tracks within close proximity. Almost forgot... cheap land, and high pay. I think you call it fantasy land.


Jeff

[XTEN]

I was planning on running Sat,but now they're calling for 40 and rain.Shark,my sister got tired of cold and snow,and her and her husband drove south till they found a hardware store that DIDNT stock snow shovels.Thats where they ended up.

[85SS]

We don't get much snow here in Tennessee. Doesn't get cold enough. 20's and 30's. I normally spend most of my winter in North Carolina Snow Boarding. Get ALOT of rain though. Has been raining for 3 weeks now.

[406shark]

The weather didn't turn out good enough for the final race weekend.

Pulled the engine and transmission out yesterday. Going to bring it back to my house Monday and get started on a plan of attack.


Jeff

[85SS]

Sucks you didnt get to race this weekend. But good luck with the rebuild.

[406shark]

Thanks. Had to clean out my extra stall to get the engine mounted up on the engine stand. I still need to clean off my work bench, but the floor is clean and the engine is here. I have to lay out the work bench to keep all the engine parts organized. It's probably going to be a couple weeks before I start the tear down.


Jeff

[s15drag]

Truck looks great!!!! Oh and your answer is to live in north houston tx. We have 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile and texasmotorplex is only 2hrs away. Cheap and can make good money depending on your occupation. But it does get a little humid but thats what a/c is for....
I have a few questions on some parts you have. I bought the 8000r panel with relays, and wanted to know where you got the ground plate and the red power block. Ive searched everywhere (maybe im putting the wrong key words in) but cant find either, also the red cover for the wires. I love that clean look.

[406shark]

Truck looks great!!!! Oh and your answer is to live in north houston tx. We have 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile and texasmotorplex is only 2hrs away. Cheap and can make good money depending on your occupation. But it does get a little humid but thats what a/c is for....
I have a few questions on some parts you have. I bought the 8000r panel with relays, and wanted to know where you got the ground plate and the red power block. Ive searched everywhere (maybe im putting the wrong key words in) but cant find either, also the red cover for the wires. I love that clean look.

Thanks. I appreciate it. I've thought about Texas, but have to wait for my daughter to decide where she wants to go to college. She's a sophomore, so I have a couple years to go.

Here are links to the places that I bought those particular items:

Power point (8 position with 3/8” main post) --- https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content/electromech/PDP/html/778Series/778Series.php


2/0 welding cable and misc. 4 gauge cable ---
https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF::::PA2


Ground block link---
https://www.shogunindustries.com/cgi-bin/ws400CS.cgi?cart_id=1091112080602460&page=products.htm&view_item=101004

The ground block is expensive, but a super high quality piece. I know those that have made there own.

A recommendation for hooking up your wiring... I wanted a way to kill power to everything (except main + cable from battery) from inside the cab. The ground for the relay center was run through a toggle switch so if I had a problem I could shut everything down without having to have someone push my kill switch in the rear. If you look at my homemade dash panel you will see a red covered switch on the left side... that kills all power. When I get to the track I turn on the main switch in the rear and don't have to mess with it for rest of the day. I activate power with the interior switch. Almost forgot... it saves battery power because the switches light up red when off, then turn green when they are active.

Any other questions feel free to contact me.


Jeff