tranny crossmember

[95L98]

has anyone used a 700r4 out of a crovette? im using the engine and tranny that came out of my c4 vette, and havent seen anywhere on here about how to manufacture or a place i can find the crossmember. also, if you have used this same setup, how long is the driveshaft needed?thanks in advance

[spacecadet]

You should be able to use your stock crossmember in the s10. As for the 700r4, there generally the same as any other 700r4. The only real differance is the clutchs and servos are a bit better quailty.

Space

[stevo67]

IIRC the Corvette 700R4 is slightly shorter (tail housing) than a standard 700R4. A stock S-series (2wd) crossmember will work fine, but you may need to drill new holes in the frame rails to slide it front or back a bit, considering your stock drivetrain (which I don't know what yours was). You will have to install engine/trans then measure for the driveshaft and have your stock one lengthened a bit, as the Vette 700R4 is just a tad shorter (7/8"), or seach the bone yard for that "needle in a haystack".

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/trans_dims.asp

Follow the above link to the "dimensions" page.

NOW...IF you were going to put a ford 8.8, or 9" rear in it, your stock shaft might be right on (IIRC they have a longer pinion).

[ZR1BLAZER]

another problem with the vette 700 is the mounting is on the side of the tailhousing instead of on the bottom. thats why nobody uses them. you will have to use another trans or custom build you a crossmember.

[ZR1BLAZER]

this is what the corvette tailshaft looks like. its short and side mount. there are kits out there but what they do? i dont know if you can just swap tailshaft housings?
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/Tail_Housing_Pics_6.JPG

[95L98]

its a 95 4cyl, by the way. im staying with the stock rearend for now. and yes, the tranny is side mounted, but via a c-beam that attaches directly to the rear end. kind of a cool design in my opinion. im sure i can make a mount for it, ive just been wanting to avoid it. now how would the driveshaft be lengthened? would more be welded on? wouldnt that be risky of losing some of it integrity? would it not be better just to have one made?

[redneckgames]

hmm, you learn something more everyday

[Terrybneal]

Words of experience. When your driveshaft is to short, they usually completely retube it. I had one cut down once and had measured wrong, then had to have it retubed. It would be cheaper to go to the wrecking yard and get a longer one and have it cut. If my memory serves me right, I think they charged a dollar an inch for the tube then rewelding and balancing. Just my 2 cents

[stevo67]

IF you are dead-set on using the Vette 700R4 as-is (without changing the tailhousing and output shaft), then focus on getting it in the truck, along with the engine, FIRST.

Until it is IN, and located where it needs to be for the proper clearances of the engine, you have no idea of exactly how much the driveshaft MAY need to be altered.

7/8" is not a whole lot, and depending on your placement, you may NOT even have to do ANY driveshaft work. If you get it in, and find that the slip yoke is actually only 5/8" farther out of the tailhousing, you can probably just leave the shaft alone. On the other hand, you may find that you need to lengthen the shaft an inch and a half, because you had to slide the engine forward more to clear the distributer.

And yes, a good shop will re-tube your shaft to make it longer, not just weld an extension in it. If you find you need to have your shaft altered, AFTER you get the eng/trans in, call the shop you think you'll be using and ASK THEM if it would be easier/better/cheaper for you to get a longer shaft and let them cut it down, or if mail-order/internet; if you should cut the ends off your shaft, send the ends to them, and let them retube IT (it's much easier and cheaper to mail/ups/fedex a small box with just the yokes and 2-3" of tube stubs than a whole shaft, especially since they will be discarding the old tube anyway). But the shop you choose to use should be consulted before-hand.

[ZR1BLAZER]

stevo67 nailed it. ALWAYS TEST FIT 1ST. i cant open my email right now but when i get it open i will post a link that melonhead sent me on driveshafts. they are custom steel shafts from different pro race teams. they are cheap and come in almost any length you will need. these teams only use their parts for 1 season. so you know that everything is good. i wouldnt retube anything. just doesnt sound as strong. i would buy a stock shaft that was to long and have it cut down 1st.

[ZR1BLAZER]

here you go. just get a shaft that fits once you get it all in there and take your measurements. http://www.musclemotorsports.com/drivetrain-driveshaft-driveshafts-steel--used.html

[95L98]

thanks for all of the info guys. but turns out im not going to be able to do any of this anyways. got some family issues and im the only one with money. so if anyone is interested in a 95 s10 standard cab sb in pretty decent condition, no engine or tranny. its up for sale. im in the ft. hood texas area. and for a little extra, ill even throw in the stock l98 long block that came out of my 91 vette with 112,000 miles. i still have the tpi setup as well. just the intake and plenum. ill repost in the for sale section in a few days when i figure out a price. but shoot me some offers if anyone is interested. im pretty bummed about not being able to do this. but i got priorities. thanks again

[ZR1BLAZER]

post a pic. as much as i dont need another project if its clean you never know? sorry to hear about the bad news but family always comes 1st.

[95L98]

ill try to get some pics up soon. ive been too busy getting things taken care of around here. ill post a link from this thread to the for sale thread when i get the pics and a price

[95L98]

here is the LINK (http://www.s10v8.com/showthread.php?p=146451#post146451) for everything im selling. thanks again for the help guys. wish i could have done this