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View Full Version : I'm officially starting my s10 blazer project


BLAZERnewb
03-12-2009, 03:12 PM
"A long journey starts with a single step"

Im starting my s10 blazer project today by pulling the 350 tuned port from my 87 iroc z28. I plan on buying the 87 blazer ive been looking at next week or the week after. Ive been wheelin and dealin with this guy since i first showed my face around here, . Put some beloved items on ebay yesterday to start the project and its looking good so far. Wish me luck this is my first attempt at anything like this. Til now its been, replace parts as needed and buy and drive. So i am really excited and scared at the same time. But if it turns out like i want it to i will be a very happy camper with a sweet truck to show off.

Thanks for all the support and insight up til now, and i look forward to more where that came from.

Adam

Terrybneal
03-12-2009, 03:47 PM
I remember the first conversion I did. There were many a nights that I would run into problems and wanted to give up. If it hadnt been for this site, I probably would have! I would just quit, come in the house and post a question on the site. Usually I had a good answer by the next day.keep us posted, and as you know, we like pictures.

Terrybneal
03-12-2009, 03:48 PM
One suggestion tho, go put a deposit on the blazer. It would be terrible if he sold it after ya went to this much effort. Just a suggestion..

BLAZERnewb
03-12-2009, 03:57 PM
this blazer has been setting for literally "years". Funny thing is its kind of a gem. It has 2 small rust spots on it that wont be @#$T to fix, and the interior is literally mint condish. It has about 180,000 on it though. Hes trying to "get" me on it but im not fallin for it. Just waitin til i have cash to swindle with. People see cash for a vehicle that has sat there forever and they lighten up a little, ya know?

manyfire
03-12-2009, 04:02 PM
Welcome to the site hope it works out and you get it cheap!

Ryoung68
03-12-2009, 06:51 PM
Welcome to S10V8.com :icon_wave: Keep us up to date on the project and take lots of pictures, they help if you run into a problem along the way. :headbang:

BLAZERnewb
03-12-2009, 06:59 PM
UPDATE: I hate motor mounts, still not out!!!

XTEN
03-12-2009, 07:20 PM
My s10 has the same motor mounts as your Iroc with the trans-dapt frame mounts.They are about the most ignorant Ive ever dealt with!Dont snooze too long on that blazer if you like it that much.Ive lost some nice stuff that way over the years.Dont be skeered!these guys on this site can answer any,and I do mean any question you may have.They have saved me alot of time,money and agrivation,more than anyone can imagine,and for that I am truly grateful to all of them.Good luck with your project,keep us posted,(we LOVE pics).Im sure your accomplishments will be EXTREMELY rewarding.

wild572s10
03-12-2009, 08:29 PM
welcome to site and enjoy your build and we like pictures

BLAZERnewb
03-12-2009, 10:18 PM
wheew sheesh!!! shes finally out, and i was wondering what can be told by this code. Looking at the rear of the motor its on the left just above the bell housing

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i195/adamgatt79/000_0005.jpg

GM 3970014

BLAZERnewb
03-12-2009, 10:19 PM
dont know why my post looks like that???

BLAZERnewb
03-12-2009, 10:43 PM
ok i found a little.

350 ci between 68 and 79, 200-255 horsepower, and could be either a 2 bolt or 4 bolt main
" Newb Moment, comin up"
whats the difference and which is better 2 bolt main and 4 bolt main? I have no idea what that means, but i know it makes a difference. And how can i tell which mine is?

bignate
03-12-2009, 10:59 PM
ooh i got this one.
alright take your oil pan off and look at your crankshaft there should be "caps" that hold it to the motor if the caps have 4 bolts on each of them its a 4 bolt if there are 2 its a 2 bolt
4 bolts are better than 2 "more the marrier"
but you realy dont have to have 4 bolt mains unless your spinnin high rpms and blowin alot of power its just something racers prefer for high dollar and high power motors.
2 bolts are just as good for street use and strip use so it depends on what your doin.
from what i can tell it looks like your doin a street truck so 2 bolt should be fine.

BLAZERnewb
03-12-2009, 11:01 PM
awesome thanx nate... i figured out the album thing so i have a couple pics of "THE PULL" in there!!!

BigMean
03-12-2009, 11:53 PM
Welcome to the site!

harleyboy
03-13-2009, 09:18 AM
welcome to the site and enjoy the truck I sure am enjoying mine now its on the rode.

BLAZERnewb
03-16-2009, 11:18 PM
I took some pics of my motor as i was pulling it apart and found some water in one of my cylinders... I left the pics big so you can see detail and maybe what the problem is

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i195/adamgatt79/000_0003-1.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i195/adamgatt79/000_0002-1.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i195/adamgatt79/000_0001-1.jpg

ZR1BLAZER
03-16-2009, 11:42 PM
could just be from the heads when you pulled them off? check to see if there is any rust in the cylinder. if so it might be a head or gasket problem. (remember the crack prone heads) if there is rust i would talk to a machine shop. see if a good hone will take care of the problem. if not a rebuild or find a cheap short block.

crharrison81
03-17-2009, 09:00 AM
3970014....350...70-76...2 or

i got this from mortec.com. this should help

Terrybneal
03-17-2009, 09:56 AM
By looking at the pictures, it could have came from when you pulled the heads. What did the spark plug look like from the cylinder that had the water in it. Compare it to the other plugs. If there isnt any difference, id say it was from just pulling the heads.

BLAZERnewb
03-17-2009, 07:45 PM
so since i found water in my cylinder it got me thinking and i want to rebuild my motor. Could someone give me a list of things to have the machine shop do to my block to get it ready to put back together. Also should i take the crank and or cam to them as well? I'm gonna stick with the bore that it has for now i just want to get it in shape for re-install.

ZR1BLAZER
03-17-2009, 09:16 PM
depends on the shape of the block. you might not be able to just re hone it. your best bet is have the whole nine yards done. but then your talking some money. boil, clean, insp, bore, hone, your better off getting a new block. if you want to reuse your crank rods and pistons and just install new rings and bearings i know of a place in jacksonville that will deliver a new block any bore you want even a std bore to your front door for 700. the block is clearenced for a 383 crank if you plan to do that later and its a 1pc rear main seal block (roller motor) that also comes with an adapter to use you 2pc crank. all this for 700. no machine shop can do that.

BLAZERnewb
03-17-2009, 11:15 PM
a little review... rings are on the ends of the pistons?

bearings are under the main caps?

havent tore her down that far yet...

BLAZERnewb
03-18-2009, 05:13 PM
is it ok to clean my internal parts with degreaser before i put them back in?

BLAZERnewb
03-18-2009, 09:09 PM
How do you remove the harmonic balancer?

manyfire
03-18-2009, 09:16 PM
if you don't have one them go to autozone and do the loan a tool to get most of the tools you'll need. You'll need a harmonic balancer puller.

BLAZERnewb
03-18-2009, 10:20 PM
i got a pulley tool... is that not what i need?

manyfire
03-18-2009, 11:03 PM
no this is the tool you need

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accessoriesShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Tools&fromType=accessories&fromString=search&parentId=cat10033&filterByKeyWord=harmonic++balancer&currentPage=1&navValue=101232&categoryNValue=100006&fromWhere=&subPartId=prod12078&itemId=prod12078&displayName=Harmonic+Balancer+Puller

manyfire
03-18-2009, 11:08 PM
they have the installer available also

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accessoriesShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Tools&fromType=accessories&fromString=search&parentId=cat10033&filterByKeyWord=harmonic++balancer&currentPage=1&navValue=100753&categoryNValue=100006&fromWhere=&subPartId=prod13146&itemId=prod13146&displayName=Harmonic+Balancer+Installer

coppergmc
03-19-2009, 04:29 AM
Kinda hard to tell from the picture but looks like there is some rust on the cylinders. I think a rebuild or at least a ring job is in order. The only way to tell how far you have to go is by pulling the engine apart and having it inspected by a machine shop. The only reason there should be rusted water in the cylinders is cracked block, cracked head, or the block was left out in the elements. Your machinist should be able to tell if anything is cracked. ***Make sure you mark your rods and mains before you take the engine apart.

I prefer to build my own engines. There are some really inexpensive rebuild kits on the market now. Northern Auto sells a kit for about 165 bucks that includes some decent parts. Besides, take pride in building something with your own two hands. It will be a great learning experience.

Post some pics of the casting numbers on the cylinder heads while you are taking pictures. We might be able to tell you if they are worth messing with.

BLAZERnewb
03-19-2009, 08:46 AM
yeah i checked on my heads already and i think they are the problem. their nums are

462624 and supposedly the worst heads chevy has put out... crack prown, poor flow as well...

all i need is to get that harmonic balancer off to finish tearing down so i can have the block checked.

BLAZERnewb
03-19-2009, 01:08 PM
i think i am just gonna change the bearings rings, heads and gaskets and hopefully everything will be ok... Gonna try to find a different, decent 4 main block to put a stroker in... might buy the blazer ive been lookin at today if i can swindle the guy who has it... woohoo!!!

manyfire
03-19-2009, 04:50 PM
did you get the balancer off yet?

BLAZERnewb
03-19-2009, 04:55 PM
i just got back from getting the puller... think im gonna grab the blazer tomrrow

manyfire
03-19-2009, 07:48 PM
you will have to pull the starter and put a screwdriver through a hole in the flywheel to hold it while you pull the balancer, i am sure there is a different way but that is how I have always done it. DON'T pull on the outer ring of the balancer or you will mess it up. When you put it back on either rent the tool or use a longer bolt to press it back on(make sure it is positioned correctly before you start pressing it on, don't try to beat it on with a hammer), don't thread the longer bolt to far though only as far as you need to to grab 3 or four threads on the balancer bolt, but I recommend the tool. Once again I am sure there are other ways to do this and the other gentlemen will make suggestions. Take your time and it will work out.

BLAZERnewb
03-19-2009, 09:30 PM
i got it off with the tool. My motor is completely apart now except for cam bearings and freeze plugs. Not sure what to do next... I want to put it back together with the same parts except rings bearings and heads... should i take it to the shop, at least to check the bore for imperfections??? Suggestions???

ZR1BLAZER
03-19-2009, 09:41 PM
how did everything look when you took it out? can you still see the cross hatch in the cylinders?

BLAZERnewb
03-19-2009, 09:42 PM
dont know exactly what that is.... explain and i will go out and look and take some pics

ZR1BLAZER
03-19-2009, 09:45 PM
should look like this. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0612em_cylinder_head_honing/photo_06.html not as defined because of the miles. but i would say if you can still see the cross hatch and dont have a ridge worn at the top of the cylinder you will be fine. you will need to take the block to a shop to change the cam bearings. but again if they are clean with no wear or nicks on them they will be fine. you are still building a stock motor.

BLAZERnewb
03-19-2009, 09:49 PM
can definately not see cross hatch in them and there is a bit of a raised lip at the top of the cylinders or at least not as smooth as the rest at the top

ZR1BLAZER
03-19-2009, 09:55 PM
if thats the case and you dont want to spend a bunch of money right now. you might just want to put new rings and bearings in it and see how long it last. did you mark what rod and piston goes in what hole when you tore it down? if not thats going to be a prob. everything has a wear pattern. if you go back in and dont put everything back where it goes that motor wont live long at all.

BLAZERnewb
03-19-2009, 09:57 PM
yeah i did that... should i get a rebuild kit or get it all seperate... rings, bearings etc...

ZR1BLAZER
03-19-2009, 09:59 PM
might be easier and cheaper just to go to the local parts store and buy a set of stock replacment rings and bearings. but while you in the motor that deep change the oil pump and timing chain. (cheap insurance)

BLAZERnewb
03-19-2009, 10:01 PM
it doesnt have an actual chain... there is two gears connected side by side in between the crank gear and cam gear

ZR1BLAZER
03-19-2009, 10:15 PM
it doesnt have an actual chain... there is two gears connected side by side in between the crank gear and cam gear
gear drive. check it for abnormal wear. if it looks good just go back with it.

manyfire
03-20-2009, 03:32 PM
glad to hear you got it off, looks like ZR1 answered the rest

BLAZERnewb
03-20-2009, 04:05 PM
got the blazer today... heres some pics

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i195/adamgatt79/000_0007.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i195/adamgatt79/000_0008.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i195/adamgatt79/000_0009.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i195/adamgatt79/000_0010.jpg

BLAZERnewb
03-20-2009, 04:06 PM
Dig the cool decals...lol

manyfire
03-20-2009, 04:12 PM
some bodywork, nice paint, v8 and some tires and you'll have a new truck, OH yeah and some new decals, just replace the original LOL

Melonhead
03-20-2009, 04:15 PM
What did you do???? Steal that from a little old lady??? Looks like it was hardly ever used.

BLAZERnewb
03-20-2009, 04:17 PM
haha... i know right, that interior is sick. The rest isnt bad either, couple rust holes, exhaust needs work... gonna have to drive it til the swap

harleyboy
03-20-2009, 05:44 PM
well at least you have a s10 to drive

XTEN
03-20-2009, 05:57 PM
That interior is REAL nice.Not alot of body work to do Glad they didnt sell it out from under you.Sounded like you wanted it pretty bad.Now I can see why Congradulations.Hey newb! I know what you need!A Simpson Racing baby seat!Ever see one? The kid has one for his 2yr old.Its the sickest thing Ive ever seen!!!

ZR1BLAZER
03-20-2009, 08:03 PM
A Simpson Racing baby seat!Ever see one? The kid has one for his 2yr old.Its the sickest thing Ive ever seen!!!
i have seen those. they are pretty sweet. your interior is very clean. about like mine. my blazer (89 that is) had 71,000 miles on it when melonhead and i looked at it. we decided not to fool with it and a buddy of mine bought it. changed the fuel pump, battery, and alt and put 9000 more miles on it. i bought it from a local new car lot. my buddy traded it in. look at my photos in my profile. good luck on the paint and body.

BLAZERnewb
03-20-2009, 09:12 PM
hahaha thats awesome... just looked one up thats pretty sweet. my boy is 5 though and he will be out of his seat soon so i probably will wait til i have another for that.. good lookin out though

BLAZERnewb
03-23-2009, 07:59 PM
got my new rings for my motor today from autozone... wanted to get my main bearings and rod bearings but get this... autozone didnt carry std rod bearings for a chevy 350, and my rear main is a different size than the rest. anyone ever heard of this?

BLAZERnewb
03-23-2009, 08:00 PM
also found out the bore on my motor is std... yeeessss! i wanted it to not be totally whacked out already!

BLAZERnewb
05-23-2009, 09:40 PM
got the 1 year upgrade for 5 bucks today... Also had an awesome score at the pick n pull today 4 fender flares and 2 94 blazer mirrors for 12 bucks then got to spend the rest of the day workin on the dime

awesome day

BLAZERnewb
06-14-2009, 06:13 PM
Was tinkering around today in the ole garage and stumbled upon an interesting discovery... 1st there is rust and discoloration on the combustion chamber that had the rust and water in the cylinder and 2nd the head that has rust on it looks to have been worked ( holes on the underside drilled out) but not the other head.

coppergmc
06-14-2009, 08:02 PM
You talking about between the two center cylinders? That is where you drill the heads for mounting on a 400. I don't like the 624s at all. Might want to make sure they aren't cracked if you decide to use them. I've never seen a set that weren't cracked though.

BLAZERnewb
06-14-2009, 08:37 PM
the one on the right is punched out all the way around

chris1972
06-14-2009, 08:44 PM
Was tinkering around today in the ole garage and stumbled upon an interesting discovery... 1st there is rust and discoloration on the combustion chamber that had the rust and water in the cylinder and 2nd the head that has rust on it looks to have been worked ( holes on the underside drilled out) but not the other head.

the heads look like 624's casting number last three digits..if so then though them away.. they are junk they allways cracked

BLAZERnewb
06-14-2009, 08:45 PM
yeah i planned on it... juat noticed this bs today

BLAZERnewb
07-15-2009, 01:24 AM
yo whats up everybody? lost the ole computer for a while there... my wife moved out on me this past week and it took me a few to get a computer... just scored a 700r4 for free from my dad... motor is being worked on right now and is hopefully almost done... so hopefully by the end of summer it will be in the blazer... cant freakin wait