Bouncing on take off.

[Losmosis]

If you watch in the video my truck bounces the front end about 3 times when I leave the line. I have tried a couple different things with no improvement.
any suggestions?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcZz6b7rYa8

[Bakas]

whats your rear suspension set up? What kind of shocks? We need to know eactly what you have. But id say stiffer shocks in the rear.

[Scotty_S-15]

whats your rear suspension set up? What kind of shocks? We need to know eactly what you have. But id say stiffer shocks in the rear.
Ditto.
Chances are it's biting, bottoming out causing a shock, breaking traction,(nose drops) biting, repeating the cylce. Much like wheel hop.

Without knowing much about the setup, I'd probably try stiffening the shocks first, on compression at least. (is there an echo in here?):icon_wink:

The good news is, looks like plenty of power!:headbang:
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[harleyboy]

they have the right Idea your rear suspension looks like its bottoming out.

[Losmosis]

O.K. first off thanks for the replies.
I am running 2 leafs with a sport truck shock (they were on the truck when I got it), traction bars, and 3" lowering blocks
It felt too stiff with 3 leafs so I took one out. it didn't make any difference, It bounched with 3 leafs. The truck set a litte high in the rear b4 I removed a leaf. I thought it wasn't transfering weight.
Also I had to set the traction bars on the spring to keep the tires from rubbing the fenders.

A little more. I am running a limited slip diff. Thought that may have something to do with it. Also using a Muncie 4 speed. It has a tall 2.20 first gear.

I am running a .040 over 350 with Alumimum heads (2.05 valves), 570/590 solid lift cam, H-beam rods, steel crank, Victor Jr. intake with 2" spacer and a 750 Holley carb.

[bigdsr56]

I'll continue the echo here & say stiffer shocks also. But,what type of traction bars are you using? Slapper bars,ladder bars,caltracs? That might make a difference too.

[Losmosis]

Slapper Bars. set to have no movement. The rubber snubber is sitting on the leaf. However set up with a half inch movement before they hit the leaf makes no difference.

[stroker1]

Looks like my truck did when it was hitting the bump stops on the rear. Take out the rear rubber bumps stops and try it again. Also, I'm going to go a little different route. If the rear isn't bottoming out on something, might be the front end has not got much travel like it has something limiting it. Maybe topping out in the front or just not loose enuff. My truck has a bunch of travel in the front, but doesn't hardly squat at all in the rear with the Caltracs.

I'm gonna also say you are shocking the suspension pretty hard with dumping the clutch, but your suspension doesn't look like it's up to the challenge. I've seen stick shift cars do exactly what yours is doing and mine was doing when I was hitting the bump stops. I would work on front end travel and weight transfer if the rear checks ok.

[Scotty_S-15]

A lot of guys on this BB have done research and concluded that unless the slapper bar extends to near the front spring eye, you won't get good results. In other words, some of the cheaper "universal" slappers may need to be extended or tossed.

Lots of guys get great results with good slapper bars, but seems like success comes a little easier with Cal-Tracs or Slide-a-Links.

Oh, and BTW, I had a traction problem develop........... tossed my old HD street shocks, got a pair of cheapie Summit adjustables........ voile! back in business.
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[Losmosis]

Again guys thanks for all the great info.
After looking at my rear shocks they are Belltech sport truck shocks.
Stroker the front end is lowered, but is was done with drop spindles. I would think it would have retained most if not all its travel. But you are right something is stopping transfer.
The rear bump stops have been cut down but not removed. (I will still remove them.)
As for the slapper bars they hit at the second springs end.
Scotty the calt-racs may be an easy bolt on but man my wallet is getting skinny.
What summit shocks are you using?

[Scotty_S-15]

Hey, there's a lot of "skinny wallet" syndrome these days!:icon_razz:

My shocks are: Summit SUM-G7702, $29.95 (each)
My notes say I set 'em for 70% compress, 30 extend.
I remember thinking that they looked like the Competition Engineering shocks..... but I guess they can be made by anyone. In fact, I doubt if CE makes their own......:icon_wink:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG7702&N=700+0&autoview=sku
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[Losmosis]

Thanks a million I'll have to give them a try.

[stroker1]

Again guys thanks for all the great info.
After looking at my rear shocks they are Belltech sport truck shocks.
Stroker the front end is lowered, but is was done with drop spindles. I would think it would have retained most if not all its travel. But you are right something is stopping transfer.
The rear bump stops have been cut down but not removed. (I will still remove them.)
As for the slapper bars they hit at the second springs end.
Scotty the calt-racs may be an easy bolt on but man my wallet is getting skinny.
What summit shocks are you using?

Front end does look as if it does not have much upward motion, you should be able to bounce it and see a lot of motion if your front springs are right.

The slapper bars rubber bumper should be in contact with the spring eye or just behind the spring eye on the flat behind the eye. If you know grimpuppy or can find his pics (where the heck is grim) he has modified slapper bars that touch the frame in front of the spring eyes. They work well for him.

[rayL]

im a lil different than most but all the trucks i mess with are stiff stiff. Stiff in the front and stiff in the rear. You have a rear shock, tire pressure, or axle wrap problem. i dont beleive its in the front.

[Losmosis]

I am gonna try the rear shocks and then go from there.
Thanks guys for everything. I will let you all know how it turns out.

[Losmosis]

Update. The rear Shocks helped a little but something still isn't right. It now only bounces one time.
I marked the rear tires and can now see that I am actually spinning about 3 revolutions then the truck drops the front end then leaves.
So I have moved to the front.
I measured from fender to tire, then jacked up the truck in the front in the middle. To my surprise after measuring again my front suspension has less than 1/2 inch of downtravel. So I started looking at the front end to understand why.
The problem is that the front springs are just too stiff and making the truck sit at the top of the suspension travel.
If you look at how the front sits I think it set pretty high for having 2" drop spindals and 25" tall tires.
This in turn I think is most of my problem. preventing me from getting the transfer I need.
I know Stroker (You toeld me so)...LOL

I could be totally off here so what do you guys think?

[stroker1]

I've about said enuff I guess, but I'll go for it again. Might help you, might not. There is a guy locally who has stock springs up front and 26" tires with no front drop. His truck looks like a frog about to hop, and bounces on take off. Mine looked the same way before I added the trick springs and drag shocks up front. I argued with the guy and he says his truck transfers weight better like that.

I say, "No it don't because the weight is already so high and stiff it has nothing to throw around".

He says, "You don't understand".

I said, "Well it's your truck that bounces like a lowrider on take off, not mine".

I know everyone has their own experiences, but this is what worked for me. My truck lifts the tires off the ground a little more now than before, but the space between the tires and fender is 4 or 5 times as much as previously. Also 60ft. times are lower and consistant. I figure when I get to the point of wild wheelies I will start limiting the upward front end travel. But I don't plan on changing the way it transfers motion unlless I discover something I don't know.

Good luck with it.

[Losmosis]

HUH? I thought I was agreeing with you.....LOL

[Slimer]

Trust me when I say " I understand the SKINNY WALLET syndrome " When built mine I had a little money put back, now long gone. But I can say beyond a shadow of a dought that if you can go with the set up I have it works. Spilt leaf mono's, strange double adjustable rear shocks and slide-a- links in the rear. Bell tech 3" lowering springs front with Strange single adjustable front. I now have been 1.28 to the 60.

this set up works awsome. I still run the 2.8 rubber mounts. Nothing tied down, motor plate or nothing.

[Losmosis]

I dont know what the front springs are I know they aren't stock and that they are huge.
I haven't had them out but I did measure the coil diameter and the are .750 thick. I measured my wifes 83 Camaro and they are .600. I also measured the stock springs on my 98 S-10 and they were .600 also. I know this doesn't tell me too much.
In simple terms I can jank my 98 S-10 up by the fender a good 2 inches. and the 83 Camaro a good 1.5" and my 89 S-10 not at all.

Since my wallet is skinny I am gonna go to the bone yard and get a set of Stock Camaro springs and put those in to see how it works. Then when I can fatten up the ole wallet some I will try some other things.
Slimer If I could get a 1.28 60 I would be as happy as a puppy with 2 peters..LOL

[stroker1]

HUH? I thought I was agreeing with you.....LOLYeah, I didn't take it that you where arguing, or neither was I. Really I was just trying not to sound like a know it all. Cause that's not me at all. I can relate to the skinny wallet also. I'm unemployeed since early April, and a screwed up transmission that'll probably be holding me up for several weeks. LOL

[Bakas]

go for the trick front springs, their only $100 and worth every penny if ya ask me.

trick springs and 90/10's up front

And only 2 stock leafs in the rear with 70/30 shocks, slide-a-links.

1.44 best 60' hooks hard every time and deadly consistant. I cant even do a burnout with out going through the water box. Trust me it works.

[Losmosis]

I am not doughting the trick springs would be best, but I can trade parts with my local boneyard.
I am almost in the same boat as Stroker. I have been on Workers Comp for a year now with a broken foot. I have surgery on it the June 9th so I am trying to take every advantage of racing b4 I get laid up for the rest of the summer.

Do you guys have the front swaybar on your trucks? Mine is drag race only so I am hoping I can take it off.

[stroker1]

Do you guys have the front swaybar on your trucks? Mine is drag race only so I am hoping I can take it off.

Holy Cow!! You still running that thing?? That's half the problem. Jerk that thing off and find you some worn out bouncey-bouncey springs in the bone yard. That should do the trick. Try to find some springs from a small car that might work. The bigger the car the stiffer the springs.

Some worn out bone yard springs, a cheap set of drag shocks, and removing the sway bar will help alot I'm thinking.

[Losmosis]

Kool I was wanting to take it off but I am a big chicken when it comes to safety..LOL

I am considering buying the trick springs (wife has given me her blessing) But weighing the truck is going to be an act of god. I will have to go borrow my brothers trailer travel 30 miles to weigh it then reverse everything. Just a headache.
So with that said. I am guessing my front end would be pretty light but how light I don't know.
I have Alumimum heads, and an electric waterpump, 2 electric fans and a corvette radiator. other than that the truck was completely gutted. I don't even have power brakes. It hads a mild steel 10 point cage alumimum dash a muncie 4 speed (light as crap) body is all steel and I weigh around 180.
What do you think my front end would way. I am guessing 1650?

BTW you know I race in West Virginia. I hear Banjo music all the time. Thats why I drave a hot rod s-10...LOL

[Bakas]

I have these, and most of the other guys do to.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/47150/10002/-1

[Losmosis]

Thanks Bakas

[Losmosis]

I have these, and most of the other guys do to.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/47150/10002/-1

Are you sure you have these springs? They are 3 1/2" across the coil and my old springs are 4". That makes these springs not fit my truck.

[Bakas]

have you tried to fit them yet? I know they fit in mine.

Im 100% positive those are the springs in my truck.

[Losmosis]

yeah i tried. they are too small around.

[chris1972]

I have these, and most of the other guys do to.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/47150/10002/-1

what year and car do the spring fit ..the part number say a-body i all ways thoght you use late model car front end parts like monte 78 on..47205..not try to step on any thing but helping ..and making sure when i get ready to buy a set for me...

[stroker1]

I don't know if the springs Bakas has will fit in all applications, but he says they fit his truck so I would think he would know. But I can GUARANTEE you these will work.

FYI, all the trick springs will be smaller in diameter than the stock springs in my experience. Here is what I have and I KNOW they fit. Basically the same spring rate as the ones BAKAS has. But mine fit the G-body cars.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/47130/10002/-1

[chris1972]

I don't know if the springs Bakas has will fit in all applications, but he says they fit his truck so I would think he would know. But I can GUARANTEE you these will work.

FYI, all the trick springs will be smaller in diameter than the stock springs in my experience. Here is what I have and I KNOW they fit. Basically the same spring rate as the ones BAKAS has. But mine fit the G-body cars.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/47130/10002/-1

stroker did you weight front of your truck

[Ryoung68]

The 89 might have had the 1500# towing package, mine did and the springs were beefier up front.

[Losmosis]

It had a 2.5 in it. Did that come with a towing package?
Stroker, do you remember how you got them to fit/ I mean I can't get them over the little ears on top the hold the spring in place or over the gloove that hold them in the bottom.

[stroker1]

It had a 2.5 in it. Did that come with a towing package?
Stroker, do you remember how you got them to fit/ I mean I can't get them over the little ears on top the hold the spring in place or over the gloove that hold them in the bottom.Just confirmed 100% sure they are #47130 springs in my truck. I looked at the part number on the side of them tonight when I was pulling the powerglide for a refresh/troubleshoot.

As for fitting, I assume you are using a coil spring compressor??!! made for suspension coil springs. The rubber I pulled out and didn't use it because they are different dia. springs. They will sit securely in place in the bottom without the rubber. In the top, they just fit into the notch that holds them in place. BTW, I ain't saying they where easy to get in!! I had to readjust the compressor multiple times. I think I cut off 1/2 a coil from the top, but hind site I would have probably done 1/4 coil. Although I can't really complain, they work perfectly and settling of the ride height is a given.

Again, I can only speak for the part #47130. The ones BAKAS spoke of may be different as far as mounting difficulties. I have no knowledge of them.

[Losmosis]

Thanks Stroker. The ones I got if you look at the coil from the top the inner part of the hole that your shock passes threw on the ones that came out of the truck are 4" and the new ones are 3.5".. I wasnt talking about wire size or height. However the springs that came out were 13" tall and the Moroso ones are lke 16 or 18" tall.
It's ok I am gonna just have to send them back. I got a set of Hotchkis coils and they seem to do good so far.
Oh yeah and yes I was using a spring compressor.
What rearend gear you running with the powerglide? I am thinking about using a powerglide, if I can sell the Muncie 4 speed.

[stroker1]

the inner part of the hole that your shock passes threw on the ones that came out of the truck are 4" and the new ones are 3.5".


What rearend gear you running with the powerglide? I am thinking about using a powerglide, if I can sell the Muncie 4 speed.

Yep, my springs are smaller dia. also, as far as clearance to the shock. The hole the shock passes thru is not as large, but they worked fine. Have you researched the threads on here about the trick springs? Lots of folks have ran different part numbers, but this is what worked for me. Try the search feature and check them out if you haven't already.

I am running a 4.56 gear with the powerglide and 29.5" tires. I was previously running a 28" tire but tried to kill some gear in preparation for more nitrous.

[Losmosis]

AHHH NOS. I thought you was running all motor.