View Full Version : header tube welds
jusbo
10-26-2009, 01:14 PM
This is the first set of headers I have ever held in my hands so I don't know. The tubes of the headers welded at the plate (the part that connects the tubes in a row, don't know the correct name) are not even and flush to the plate. For instance, the driver side cyl.1 is lower than cyl.3 tube. Normal?
I thought they should be flush to fit flat against the head.
polkaudio
10-26-2009, 07:11 PM
The word you're looking for is "flange".
If I read what you say correctly, the tubes are sitting randomly on the flange. So because of this, the tubes don't exactly line up with your exhaust ports very well.
IMO, that's not a very good header. The header tubes which do not line up to the corresponding port right will restrict flow.
Post pictures of both side of the flange to show what you're trying to explain.
Without pictures, I'd guess the headers weren't built on a jig to keep things aligned.
jusbo
10-26-2009, 08:14 PM
OK here we go. Don't focus on the level, focus on the space between the level and the headers.
The Setup:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2576/4047757239_db182c3695.jpg
Passenger Back
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2756/4048501736_7417ef2ae3.jpg
Driver Back
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2537/4048500894_8370a9c296.jpg
Driver Front
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2741/4048499794_d8880e2651.jpg
hillbillymike
10-26-2009, 08:48 PM
Don't sweat the small crap. There are six bolts that will take care of the little difference you have.
redneckgames
10-26-2009, 09:08 PM
yeah, thats not all that bad. and personally, I love using some red rtv and felpro manifold gaskets.
jusbo
10-26-2009, 09:22 PM
Ok cool. If you guys say don't worry, I won't....'cause you're good like that.
Ryoung68
10-26-2009, 10:18 PM
Looks like a set of sanderson CS11s, don't sweat it!
Bakas
10-26-2009, 11:54 PM
yeah like they said no prob, the flange gasket will make up those imperfections.
If its something you feel strongly about,I took a 5"grinder with a 36 grit pad and got'em closer.Just dont stay in one place too long with the grinder.
bigrond
10-30-2009, 12:47 PM
factory steel manifold gaskets seal well a bit of a pain to put in, but they wont leak like a paper gasket will eventually.they also make up for some uneven stuff like that and if the holes to small you can carefully open them up a bit .or you could get copper header gaskets but they're pricey .otherwise like everyone has said youll be fine .
if they were even and or flush to the plate you would have problems. they stick out to help the seal of the gasket. the only place the gasket seals up is right where the tubes are, not the plate.
Queue
12-31-2009, 02:44 PM
Buy a really good gasket one that is a solid piece not single sections and nice and thick plane on putting it on one time .....understand that your header will warp to your heads every time your put them on and when they are cold they dont fit the old gasket even if it was just torqued down last week you will need a new gasket everytime ... or you could suck some cold air and burn a headgasket and then have more fun pulling the heads.....
cwellss10v8
12-31-2009, 06:35 PM
Mike is right. My headers looked exactly the same on the flange. Its no big deal, thats just headers. They do eat up gaskets and thats a fact so last year I got some PERCY's 'dead soft aluminum gaskets. I just had to pull a header last week to do a repair and the gasket still looked real good and still no leaks. They are reusable so put it right back on and still no leaks. Around $20 at AZ and well worth it unless you like replacing paper gaskets all the time.
bratass
01-01-2010, 02:25 PM
First off HAPPY NEW YEAR
About 5 years ago I bought a set of layered aluminium header gaskets because of the same concern had to tighten them a couple of times each summer but they are well worth the money.
spacecadet
01-01-2010, 03:43 PM
Thye look OK to me. On a side note, One other thing to remeber is to NOT over tighten them. Overtightening will cause the header to warp and leak in the center.
Space
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