View Full Version : Cam question
tpyonegative911
01-04-2007, 12:24 PM
Alright was wondering my cam i got now is 500 lift 246dur at 50 to big for my setup. I can get a cam thats 465/488 lift 224/234at 50. in a trade. Heres my motor setup 350 bored 30, speedpro flatop pistons,305heads valve job,1.5 longslot rockers,600 holley,2400 stall will the cam go good with my setup or is it still to big. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif Your opinions please.
Scotty_S-15
01-04-2007, 12:34 PM
\"in a trade\"?? Is the other cam new? the word \"trade\" makes me wonder. No way I\'d be putting a used cam in an engine. Maybe a roller, but no way a flat tappet cam.
.......... That cam\'d be great if you could \"trade something\" for better heads....
soopertruper
01-04-2007, 12:48 PM
Cams are way to inexpensive to be jerking around with used stuff. I\'ve seen a lot of people mention summit racing cams with great success. I think you can do cams and lifters for like $120. thats the route I would take
tpyonegative911
01-04-2007, 12:53 PM
Its a brand new cam but you think its to big for my setup.
ZZ4Blazer
01-04-2007, 01:46 PM
Yes, no offense, but those heads are crap.
Only thing a cam that big\'s gonna be good for is poor performance, and a lumpy idle.
SnakePliscan
01-04-2007, 02:09 PM
Did i miss something here? was the question \"should i use a used cam?\" No it was do ya think this cam is gona work for me?
Well i think it could be a good cam but it depends on which 305 heads you\'ve got as to just how good.
If your heads are the older 305 heads with the smaller valves and not so spectacular intake ports, you can expect good low to mid-range torque, If there the 1987 and newer heads which have better ports a little bigger valves and way better combustion chambers, than you can expect decent all-around power.
The 224 degree cam is a great all-round grind. It has a little bit of lope at idle which is cool and it\'s not so big that it kills torque down low nice broad Strong mid range
Your compression is gonna be on the order of 10.5:1 so you really don\'t want to go smaller on the cam anyway, watch your timing you probably won\'t need more than about 30-32* total. Inital will be 8-10*, run some stiffer springs on your mechanical advance, timing should come in evenly to 3000-3500 rpm, you my have to modify the center peice that the fly weights act apone so as to act as a advance limiter, you probly won\'t use the vacuum advance ether, make sure your spark plug heat range is a couple steps cooler so she dosnt pick up a miss on the top end or under heavy load.
tpyonegative911
01-04-2007, 02:26 PM
Oill get the number off the heads.
tpyonegative911
01-04-2007, 02:41 PM
Do you think my compression is that high.
SnakePliscan
01-04-2007, 02:54 PM
You\'ll be fine with pump premium and proper tuning.
I have a 9.75:1 383 that run on regular but it likes mid-grade better and thats with locked timing! Quench is tight, pistons are D dish. Plugs are marine, heads are vortec etc..
tpyonegative911
01-04-2007, 03:54 PM
Im just going to wait and get the summit cam 442/465 lift 214/224dur at 50 cam. I think that will go good with my setup.
SnakePliscan
01-04-2007, 05:40 PM
That cam at 214 is better suited to a lower compression motor. it\'s just a step above a RV cam. and RV cams improve power by building cylinder pressure at low engine speeds with there shorter duration fast closing lobes. not what you need in a engine with an already hi static comp.You have to think of the cam from a dynamic point of view, whats happening at the different rpms. spec numbers are just the starting point. you\'d rather build cylinder pressure later when you have the benefit of quench enhanced by RPM for more stable burn. Also remember with the longer cam you have some back pumping affect at lower engine speeds which has a EGR effect which actually helps combustion.
tpyonegative911
01-04-2007, 05:45 PM
I been told that my motor compresion is around 9.5 http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif
SnakePliscan
01-04-2007, 06:12 PM
All right lets look at the sum of the parts, A flat top 355, with 0.050 piston to head clearance for 13cc, lets say 5cc for the valve relives in the pistons then we drop on a set of 76cc smog heads and where at...8.76:1 sounds about right for a smog motor that\'s had some FTs thrown at it. lets check a set 64cc closed chambers........9.9:1
hmm whats left oh ya 58cc 305 heads.......10.6:1
tpyonegative911
01-05-2007, 02:02 PM
So what size cam do you think i should run out of the summit brand cam.
Where did the .050 piston to head figure come from,was there an actual measurement taken?
tpyonegative911
01-05-2007, 03:07 PM
I dont were that came from, as for as i know my motor was bored 30 over got stock rod and the flatop pistons I was told by alot of people the 500 lift cam was way to big for my motor i thought my compression was around 9.5 or so if it was 10.6 as stated ealier that 500 lift cam should work. I think the 442/465 cam would work but who knows.
It was probably used as a \'rule of thumb\' figure but it may be way off. He may have thought that you used \'rebuilders\' pistons which are \'sometimes\' .020\" in the hole and a .030\" head gasket. But some aftermarket pistons are .030\" or worse in the hole. Some blocks can vary also in their crank to deck measurement. The only way to know for sure is to take an actual measurement,anything else is just a guess.
And that .500\" lift cam would work good with 10.6 static compression but with 9.5 may go flat on the top end,depending on other factors.
But that .500\" cam is not for a family car or \'one and only\' vehicle.
SnakePliscan
01-06-2007, 05:02 AM
Hey COB that was good you answered your own question to me. You are right on of course........... As far as the lift question go\'s the average stock SB head is all done making more flow at .500 so y lift the valve any further?.............well i,ii tell you why, it\'s a way of keeping the valve in the full lift zone. the biggest challenge to running lots of lift is matching up the parts. how the engine runs is influenced more by a host of other factors, duration overlap etc....To answer 911s question again, which cam should i run? go with that 224/234..........Just a thought gettin back to that .500/246 cam i would think that with a limited head your power band is going to be narrow. And 246 isint helping the bottem end any.
Good advice SnakePliscan http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif I by no means intend to dispute or offer advice as if I know alot of \'what to do\',,,it\'s just that I have learned all the things NOT to do. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif like over camming my family vehicle http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_eek.gif
tpyonegative911
01-06-2007, 06:06 AM
Ok im not a brain about cams as you can tell how big a differece will that be compared to the 500 lift cam i mean 224/234 verses the 246 dur 234 is only 12 less then the 246 is that a big differnce in duration. What i want to no is it the lift killing me or the duration I just dont want to over cam it again thats all. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_frown.gif
tpyonegative911, I wasn\'t referring to you,what I meant was that I have made \'all\' the mistakes.I over cammed \'my\' vehicle.
Something I heard someone say along time ago was,first determine what you want the vehicle to do.Then determine if it\'s a proper parts match with the rest of the \'parts\' on the engine. And if it\'s a daily driver,make sure it\'s practical. I learned this the hard way!
tpyonegative911
01-06-2007, 06:44 AM
Yea im learnen the hard way to that why i want the right size cam.
insomniacshotrods
01-06-2007, 07:16 PM
sure its not a 515 lift 246 lunati 108 lobe sep, I remember talking to someone awhile back about a cam and they had the same one I have currently in my black s10.....just seein if it was you...
SnakePliscan
01-06-2007, 08:13 PM
On 2007-01-06 11:06, tpyonegative911 wrote:
how big a difference will that be compared to the 500 lift cam i mean 224/234 verses the 246 dur 234 is only 12 less then the 246 is that a big difference in duration. . http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_frown.gif
...............Boy oh boy if old Harvey Crane heard ya say that he\'d be rollin his eyes right round his head....But like i said lift is less of a concern than other factors, lift is something you always want lots of. Ya know you can have two cams with identical duration and even the same lobe separation but the opening and closing events are at different times and one will have more overlap than the other, they each will make the engine run differently.................Look for a series of 3 books (How to modify Chevrolet small-block V8) written by a guy named Divid Vizard, this guy is a hard core gearhead, He\'s bean flowin heads for years, His dope is some of the best............. In the mean time think about this, Valve lift duration at or near full lift is were the most flow is, but is limited by lifter diameter. Now he who can design a lobe profile that will get you there the fastest and keep you there the longest just might flow the most air........Comp Cams extreme energy flat tappet line is there...............Krank on!!
oncearacer52
01-07-2007, 03:49 AM
Here is what I did in a 383 I had in a Malibu. I had a flat tappet Hyd cam with about .510 lift. I don\'t know the other figures. It was built by a machine shop so it should have been close to matching my other parts. Flat tops, Brodix streed aluminum heads with 2.02 intake valves. For some reason I decided to change cams. I ordered a hydralic cam and lifter combination from Summit. I am not sure but I think it was SUM-K1106 for $69.95. That cheap .488 lift cam made my 383 run better than the other two cams I had used earlier.
Scotty_S-15
01-07-2007, 05:13 AM
On 2007-01-07 01:13, SnakePliscan wrote:
............................... Now he who can design a lobe profile that will get you there the fastest and keep you there the longest just might flow the most air.........................
Amen to that. And that\'s why God gave us roller cams.... http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif
The problem with agressive cams, particularly flat tappet cams that jam the valve open ASAP, and hold it near max lift as long as possible, is that it\'s tough on the cam, and because the valvesprings need to be stiffer to control the valve\'s actions under those conditions, that is tougher yet on the cam & lifters. Mushroom lifters could help. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif
SnakePliscan
01-07-2007, 05:36 AM
Hey Scotty go to the Comp Cams web site and check out the dyno sheets for roller and flat tappet cams in the extreme energy line~~~~~~~~~~~ You will be blown away by how much power the flat tappets make !!~~~~~~~~~~~~ The crazy thing is that if the flat tappets had the advantage of low friction like the rollers do, hell you could flip a coin !~~~~~~~~~~it just shows how the geometries of the simple flat tappet lifter going over the cam nose are very functional~~~~~~~~~~~~Krank on !!
tpyonegative911
01-07-2007, 05:56 AM
So duration is killing me. When you have a total duration at 302 does that mean that your valve stays open 302 degress out of a single cam revolution or am i wrong. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif
luvluvr
01-07-2007, 06:20 AM
Ok, from what I\'ve read you should listen to COB. You need to determine what you want the truck to do. Then you need to figure out which parts you already have that you want to keep or have to keep for whatever reason. IF you\'re going to keep those \"boat anchor\" heads, and IF you\'re going to keep that stall, and IF your compression is around 10:1 or 10.6:1 as has been pointed out, then you would probably be happy with a cam that has lift between .460-.488 and duration @ .050 no more than 228-230. If your compression is on the high side, say 10.6:1 -11.0:1, then higher duration @.050 will actually \"bleed off\" compression at lower rpm\'s, which makes it more streetable. However, your heads won\'t support that level of breathing and your valves springs don\'t have enough seat pressure for that type of cam. Bottom line? No more than .480 lift, 224 degrees @ .050. You\'ll be happier and so will the engine.
Scotty_S-15
01-07-2007, 07:23 AM
On 2007-01-07 10:56, tpyonegative911 wrote:
So duration is killing me. When you have a total duration at 302 does that mean that your valve stays open 302 degress out of a single cam revolution or am i wrong. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif
Well yeah, sort of. 302 degress of CRANK rotation, not cam rotation. One reason most guys prefer to use the @.050 duration figure (246) as opposed to actual, or advertised duration (like 302) is that until the valve is open .050, there ain\'t a lot going on, AND, some cams spend a lot of time (degrees) getting from .001 to .050 lift, others less, so the .050 figure is more indicative of the cams charactersitics than advertised duration.
..............But is the duration killing you? Probably. As SnakePliscan been saying, there\'s a whole lot more to a cam than duration, LSA and lift. But, in most cases, that\'s three of the most important factors when choosing a cam. Most guys trust that the cam mfg. will engineer the other factors in to suit your needs.
tpyonegative911
01-07-2007, 08:16 AM
Ok what want to do with the truck is drive it i dont care anymore if it lopes like crazy or not. I just want to beable to drive it around town and maybe out of town just a little. I want to keep the stall its a 2400 i just want a cam that will run best for my motor. Im not the greatest on motors as you can tell i just want a cam that will work good with the stall and run smooth . Nothing radical not racing it or anything because ill have my little boy with me alot like my dad did with me in his 69 chevelle thats what got me into v8s in stuff. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif
Scotty_S-15
01-07-2007, 10:03 AM
So basically you want a cam that\'s totally streetable, will live happily with your converter and your 305 heads.
.......... So might I suggest the GM \"151\" cam. You can\'t hardly go wrong with this old cam, it was the flat hydraulic cam Chevy used with the 350 HP 327s in the mid 60s. Makes power past 5500, revs past 6+K even with weak, tired valve springs. Idles with a slight lope @600. Crane now makes them, marketed thru Jeg\'s/Summit as \"Muscle Car Blueprint\" cams or something like that. $100 or so last time I looked.
............ Everybody will say that this cam sucks because it\'s \"old school\" technology. Many of this cam\'s traits are the exact opposite of what SnakePliscan is saying about the new technology cams. That is, the cam has long, slow ramps, gently lifting and lowering the valves. But the upside to this old technology is that it\'s a cam that can run well with old, 100K mileage valve springs, and the cam itself will live for at least that long. And, another plus is the broad power band, lots of bottom end torque. The downside, you\'re not going to make killer HP. But with your heads, that ain\'t happening anyway.
.............. BTW, I had that cam in my first S10 motor, could run 13.2s @ 102 all day long with a 1.94\" double hump headed 350.
tpyonegative911
01-07-2007, 10:14 AM
Ok thanks for the info. do you have the specs on that cam and i bought brand new vavle springs for the 500 lift cam can i use them with this cam.
tpyonegative911
01-07-2007, 10:38 AM
I think i found the cam your talking about 222/222 dur at 50 447/447 lift rpm range 2000-5600 sound right. also can i use the vave springs i just bought for the 500 lift cam. they only have about 2hours run time on them.
Scotty_S-15
01-07-2007, 10:48 AM
On 2007-01-07 15:38, tpyonegative911 wrote:
I think i found the cam your talking about 222/222 dur at 50 447/447 lift rpm range 2000-5600 sound right. also can i use the vave springs i just bought for the 500 lift cam. they only have about 2hours run time on them.
Yes, that\'s the one. No problem with the springs. Again, this cam isn\'t fussy about springs. The GM logic about cams of that era was to lift & lower the valves as slowly and gently as possible to minimize valve float, and reduce stress on all the components involved.
If you saw the actual, or \"advertised\" duration of this cam, your eyes might bug outhttp://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif .... but thats the way they were designed.
tpyonegative911
01-07-2007, 12:17 PM
OK how much difference would thier be between the summit brand kit dur 224/224 lift 465/465 rpm2200-5200 lope sep 114 verses the blueprint cam dur 222/222 lift447/447 lope sep113 rpm 2200-5200 The specs are almost the same the summit kit with lifters is$70.oo verses $109for the blue print cam and 50 for lifters is the summit cam cheaper qaulity or what.
luvluvr
01-07-2007, 01:34 PM
With your application, you probably wouldn\'t be able to tell the difference between the two cams. As far as your springs, you need about 110 lbs. of seat pressure. Not enough spring pressure means floating valves, too much means pre-mature cam wear. Also, you should put new lifters in. This cam is also offered my Melling and Blue Racer. I forget the Melling # but I think the Blue Racer part # is WG 996. Either one can be bought for short money and they are good cams. I had this same cam in a stock 350 in a \'81 Z-28 about 20 years ago. It made great power and sounded great. I think you\'ll be happy with that choice. And when the time comes for bigger and better heads, you\'ll want more cam, but for the time being, I think you\'ll like this one.
ChevyKiD_69
01-07-2007, 02:49 PM
i have that same cam it doesnt have a rumble sounds stock ZR1blazer i think has that same cam. hope that helps you out some of what it will sound right. nick
tpyonegative911
01-07-2007, 04:08 PM
That cool thanks for the info nick as long as it run good thats all im concern about. Right now the way it runs it just a expensive lawn ordermant. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif
ChevyKiD_69
01-07-2007, 04:27 PM
yeah it runs good sounds stock i dont know what it will run like in a 350 but it runs good in my 307 it pulls pretty hard. if you want go to videos it is ZR1blazer it is like the 4th or 5th video on the first page. it sounds nice. nick
get off the internet listening to us desktop dyno engineers and pick up the phone and call someone who makes a living grinding camshafts. Tell them what you want and bingo bango problem solved. I will never understand this about people. Why sit around for hours bumping ya gums to other people who may not know anymore than yourself. CALL A CAM PERSON !
ChevyKiD_69
01-07-2007, 06:26 PM
that way we can bug people like you and see what your comments are. j/k like the saying goes if you dont know ask the ? that way you can get something around what you want instead of being on the phone for 2 hours telling someone every little detail about your vehicle. its just the way i see it. not to start a little fight or nothing but iam in the same sistuation with the 383 iam building but iam going sloid roller.
If your on the phone with a cam person for 2 hours its because you called the wrong one. takes 10 minutes max. Personal opinion goes along way with camshafts. What i think is streetable may be pro stock to you. My idea of mild and yours may be years apart. So when you ask \"what cam yall think i need\" all your getting is opinions. As far as i know very few of us can make cam recomendations based on pure knowledge of how valve events affect power. With all this being said my cam recomendation will be the same one that cam motion recomends.
tpyonegative911
01-08-2007, 02:57 AM
Well i getting summit cam k1103 442/465 lift dur 214/224 at 50. i think this would be the best choice. I read a hot rod article were the took a pretty stock kit from nothern auto parts were i got mine thier performance kit and they used three summit cams one size bigger one smaller and they liked this one the best out of the cams. it wasa 350 with little work done to the motor.
Scotty_S-15
01-08-2007, 05:57 AM
On 2007-01-08 00:36, rayL wrote:
If your on the phone with a cam person for 2 hours its because you called the wrong one. takes 10 minutes max. Personal opinion goes along way with camshafts. What i think is streetable may be pro stock to you. My idea of mild and yours may be years apart. So when you ask \"what cam yall think i need\" all your getting is opinions. As far as i know very few of us can make cam recomendations based on pure knowledge of how valve events affect power. With all this being said my cam recomendation will be the same one that cam motion recomends.
Yes, asking the pros is good, and like Ray indicated, you also need to have an idea of what you\'re needs are. In most cases with cams, it\'s a matter of compromises, that is, you can\'t have your cake and eat it too. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif
........ Myself, I\'ve had no luck calling Comp Cams. 3 times I\'ve called, twice for cam choices, one guys sucked worse than the other. First guy told me what cam I needed before I was done telling him my needs, and basically said goodbye. Next guy wasn\'t much better. Then, I called up wanting to buy beehive springs for my Edelbrock heads. \"no problem, just use this # 123456 BB Chevy retainer\" He neglected to mention that the installed height was a mile off. So then I was shopping for offset keepers.http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_mad.gif
.......... Point is, don\'t EVER stake you life on what these guys tell you. Do some research yourself.
i will not bad mouth comp cams. They have cams that do work. Guys there are other cam guys out there other than comp, crane, and lunati. Ive been dealing with cam motion and they are awsome. Camshaft innovations is kickin ass to. Give one of these guys a call. Cam motion will give you the specs they recommend. Jay Allen@camshaft innovations WILL NOT until you commit to buy. Another thing is with cam motion if your not happy with the camshaft. You pull it out and tell them it didnt perform as expected and they will redo it. Ive never heard of anyone who has done this but its part of there sales pitch. Lets see comp do that. Comp guys are hired to man the phones. Cam motion makes a living doing camshafts and camshafts only.
Scotty_S-15
01-09-2007, 01:41 AM
On 2007-01-08 20:58, rayL wrote:
i will not bad mouth comp cams. They have cams that do work. .............................................
Oh yeah, I should have made that clear. Comp Cams arguably is the best. Point I was trying to make is that all the guys at Comp Cams (and all other cam mfgs.) aren\'t necessarily geniuses, and/or have bad days. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif
............ So don\'t stake it all on one \"expert\'s\" opinion.
s10carguy
01-09-2007, 03:48 AM
I beg to differ about comp cams. can\'t even begin to tell you guys how many of their cams wiped out for me, and also my engine machinist. since I\'ve switched over to crane and elgin (wolverine) there\'s been zero problems.
I like the comp cams rocker arms though. I wonder who makes the summit cams anyway?
ChevyKiD_69
01-09-2007, 06:35 AM
i heard that summit cams are left over from like crane comp and so on. tell you guys this the one i bought works awesome ad it sounds like a few guys on here bought it to so summit has some good cams not a lopey cam but i actualy bought 2 of them and both worked great the one step up from the 1103 that i put in my first 350. if its not lunati cam its a summit cam ive had good luck with them both. nick
Scotty_S-15
01-09-2007, 08:28 AM
On 2007-01-09 08:48, s10carguy wrote:
I beg to differ about comp cams. can\'t even begin to tell you guys how many of their cams wiped out for me, and also my engine machinist. since I\'ve switched over to crane and elgin (wolverine) there\'s been zero problems.
I like the comp cams rocker arms though. I wonder who makes the summit cams anyway?
Now I\'m not saying that this is the answer as to why you and others had trouble with Comp Cams, and good luck with other cams........ This is some stuff I\'m repeating from earlier in this thread:
.......... But maybe, just maybe it has something to do with the radical profiles that Comp Cams offers on some of their cams. I think SnakePliscan was alluding to this technology earlier in this tread. Sure, these radical profiles make huge HP, but at the cost of huge loads on the cam and lifters. By radical profiles, I mean a can that will (within a particular duration, say 246 degrees) be jamming the vales open as soon as lift begins, and holding them open as long as possible, and then crashing them back down. On a graph it might look almost like a square lobe. And to make matters worse, for the lifter follow the cam under those circumstances, spring pressure must be increased, further adding to the stress on the cam and lifter.
.............. On the flip side, take the Chevy \"151\" cam I mentioned earlier in the thread. (And other GM performance cams of that era) The ramp is so gradual and easy, that it\'ll rev 6K PLUS with 100,000 mile valve springs. In fact, I believe the actual duration of that GM cam is something crazy like 320 degrees, but the duration at .050 is 222 degrees or so. So that about a hundred degrees duration just to get the valve eased off it\'s seat, and set it back down. Of course the downside to this is NO killer HP.
........... So maybe the Elgin & Crane cams are less agressive than the Comp Cams you had, and more like that GM cam..... Maybe nothing to do with the quality of the iron and/or treatment, hardness, etc.
grimpuppy
01-09-2007, 09:09 AM
On 2007-01-08 20:58, rayL wrote:
Comp guys are hired to man the phones.
That is not quite correct. They are hired in the mail room. The phones is the next promotion in line http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif
Bottom line is, if your tech (whatever company) does NOT ask for detailed engine and vehicle specs then hang up.
that way you can get something around what you want instead of being on the phone for 2 hours telling someone every little detail about your vehicle.
Do you think the general population has figured out how to recommend cams without this detailed information while the cam companies lag behind in thier abilities to do so?
The reason they ask is because they want you to be happy with the cam. the only way you will be happy is if it does what you want it to do. If you are not happy you don\'t buy another one. If they do not ask, they are just looking to sell a cam and don\'t give a crap. There are quite a few tech support guys that could use a smack in the head. That doesn\'t just go for cam companies either.
carkiller
01-09-2007, 10:16 AM
to get this thread back on track http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif really it all boils down to duration@ .050 thats the most important thing in a street cam. i think the summit cam you chose is a decent choice. the only thing i dont like is the rpm range. the powerband starts lower than your stall and the cam is all done at 4500. if this was mine, i would use the 1104 cam.
Brand: Summit
Product Line: Summit Camshafts
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,200-5,200 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 282
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 282
Advertised Duration: 282 int./282 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.465 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.465 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.465 int./0.465 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 114
this cam i think is perfect for your set up.
the duration @.050 is only 224.. and the rpm range is perfect. starts right where you need it to and pulls all the way to 5,200rpms..
tpyonegative911
01-09-2007, 11:16 AM
Ok thanks carkiller were will this cam idle at . should i have good vacuum with this cam my vacuum with the big cam is is like 9 park.
carkiller
01-09-2007, 12:11 PM
On 2007-01-09 16:16, tpyonegative911 wrote:
Ok thanks carkiller were will this cam idle at . should i have good vacuum with this cam my vacuum with the big cam is is like 9 park.
this cam should idle fine around 600-800rpms. vacuum should be 12-14.
like i said, the powerband(rpm range) is matched perfectly to your stall and will pull 800rpms more than the 1103 cam.
tpyonegative911
01-10-2007, 02:32 AM
The power valve that came in my 600 holley shound\'nt need changed then whith that much vacuum right. 12-14 vac doesnt a stock holley 600 have 6.5 powervalve in it.
tpyonegative911
01-24-2007, 11:52 AM
Well a update my motor has 350 heads on it 14079261 instead of the 305 heads i originally thought were on it. my motor setup is 350 bored 30 over 350 heads, valve job done 1.5 long slot rockers, 246dur cam 600 holly speedpro flattop pistons 600 holley 2600 stall will the 350 heads help me out with that cam over the 305 or is the cam still to big i know people said the heads were killing me when i thought the were 305s.
Scotty_S-15
01-24-2007, 12:26 PM
Regarding the 14079261 heads, I did a little digging, and they apparently have 76cc chambers. I couldn\'t find anything on valve sizes. Were you able to measure them?
....... So if your flat top pistons have a few negative ccs for the eyebrows, and a normal gasket and deck height, your compression will be about 9-1 or less.
........ Looks like your heads are still the weak link in the chain. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_cry.gif
tpyonegative911
01-24-2007, 01:04 PM
Oh well i tried im just going to switch to the summit 1104 cam then i should be good to go. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif
tpyonegative911
01-31-2007, 10:17 AM
Well i talk to summit tech line, and asked what cam they suggest for my motor. they said summit cam 1106 488lift 234dur I think that is to big i think 1104 cam is right 465lift 224dur. what do you guys think i need to know because i\'m going to order my stuff later today http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif
Scotty_S-15
01-31-2007, 11:05 AM
regarding streetable cams: \"when in doubt, go smaller\". http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif
So yeah, I think you\'re doing the right thing. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif
tpyonegative911
01-31-2007, 11:26 AM
Okay thank scotty.
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