PDA

View Full Version : P.O.S. 305 TPI


TPI
05-06-2007, 12:14 AM
I\'m tired of my piece of *&^% 305, it has a misfire or something but check with pullin spark plugs every one is firing, pulled one by one injector and all working. Has 180psi compression on all cylinders, new plugs,injectors,wires,msd distributor,tpis intake manifold(which is new,) WTF! I don\'t know what else would be causing the misfire, doesn\'t do it when cold, but gets warmed up and does it everytime! Anyone for some help? http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif

ZR1BLAZER
05-06-2007, 02:50 AM
what do you mean by misfire? at idle, under normal accel, under hard accel, at high rpms??

rudedogg
05-06-2007, 03:39 AM
more than likely your distributor is worn out,stator could be going bad.i had asimilar problem and that cured it!

TwiztedMods
05-06-2007, 06:30 AM
Also check for vacuum leaks, that can cause problems as well!

batchik2
05-06-2007, 06:33 AM
what are you getting for fuel pressure?

TPI
05-06-2007, 12:13 PM
It misfires all the time, idle, acceleration, high rpm. New vacuum lines, added ground wire from coil to motor, brand new msd distributor(old stock distributor also did the same thing), ground wire from motor to body, ground from battery to motor and body, fuel pressure is 46 psi. Fuel pump able to pump 100psi. The misfire is from passenger side, and thats as far as I can narrow it down to.

batchik2
05-06-2007, 12:58 PM
pop all your wires off the cap and set them back in place. then take some insulated pliers and while its running pull them off one at a time and see if rpm\'s change at all.

bstef
05-06-2007, 01:50 PM
Check valve springs Had one broken in one place wouldn\"t hold enough tension to keep the valve closed. Hard to see though. Just a thought. Bernie Steffen http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_eek.gif Where in Iowa. I\'m from Ft Madison

TPI
05-06-2007, 09:47 PM
On 2007-05-06 17:58, batchik2 wrote:

pop all your wires off the cap and set them back in place. then take some insulated pliers and while its running pull them off one at a time and see if rpm\'s change at all.

I have already done this and everyone drops rpms

TPI
05-06-2007, 09:50 PM
On 2007-05-06 18:50, bstef wrote:

Check valve springs Had one broken in one place wouldn\"t hold enough tension to keep the valve closed. Hard to see though. Just a thought. Bernie Steffen http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_eek.gif Where in Iowa. I\'m from Ft Madison



<font size=1>[ This message was edited by: bstef on 2007-05-06 17:52 ]</font>

I thought of that too, but didn\'t see any broken. I also know that sometimes stock springs run at a high rpm get weak and don\'t snap back the valve fast enough, like with a bigger cam, but Im using stock roller cam. By the way I\'m from Spencer, in the NW area, south of Spirit Lake.

ZR1BLAZER
05-07-2007, 11:43 AM
sounds like your in limp mode? any codes? if not i would start with your MAS then check your spark module and knock sensor. these are items that sometimes never throw a code but affect timing.

TPI
05-08-2007, 09:15 AM
nope, no codes. Spark control module, I don\'t remember what it is but have a good idea, is it the one that is mounted on the firewall directly behind the Distributor? I\'ll do some checkin on the items you described. Also, the park nuetral wires are wired up to be in park or neutral because I have a 5 speed, could that cause this? I can\'t hook the speed sensor wire from the harness to the original speed senser cause then the speedo don\'t work, this is why the park neutral wire is hooked up. Any suggestions?

ZR1BLAZER
05-08-2007, 11:33 AM
it could? are you using a stock (modified harness) on your S10? has it always done this or did it just start? how long have you had this thing together and on the road?

TPI
05-09-2007, 12:24 AM
The wiring harness is painless wiring wired everything the way it should eccept the speed sensor wire because its a 5-speed (nv3500, getrag). It has always done this. I\'ve had it runing and driving for bout 3 years with no problems other than the misfire. Never had any codes other than 42 but thats from setting timeing. I do know that it has a top end knock I\'m not sure what it is, doesn\'t do it under accel or idle or high rpm, just when you give it gas to go up hills but at about 2,000 rpm to 2500. re-adjusted rockers bout 3 times and still does it.

ZR1BLAZER
05-09-2007, 02:45 PM
theres your problem. spark control circit. code 42. that is your timing and knock sensor all in one. what color is the tit on the knock sensor? white or black. as far as knock under a strainful load?? that might be timing and octain level? what type fuel do you use?

TPI
05-11-2007, 12:52 AM
On 2007-05-09 19:45, ZR1BLAZER wrote:

theres your problem. spark control circit. code 42. that is your timing and knock sensor all in one. what color is the tit on the knock sensor? white or black. as far as knock under a strainful load?? that might be timing and octain level? what type fuel do you use?



Code 42 - EST/ electronic spark timing, you will get this code when setting timing correctly, because you have to unplug your advance wire, thus setting off this code. Previously I said that I got this code when I reset my timing whick is normal. Code 43 is what your talking about which is ESC - electronic spark control, knock senser. The knock is louder than a ping knock, I know what that sounds like, fuel that I run most of the time is 91, but I doesn\'t make any difference in it to run under that cause the only mod done is the chip. Would it hurt to try compression test when hot, this is when is runs the worst. Thinking maybe collapst lifter, burned or warped valve, or crack in head?? When I first got it running I drove it with no exaust, and overheated the snot out of it twice, Last thing, I found that no 2 spark plug seems to be running lean, it is almost white, and rest are normal rusty, brown. Might be no 2 cylinder?