PDA

View Full Version : tubbed


JIVETRKY
09-11-2007, 04:09 PM
does anyone have their s-10 tubbed? ifso how much of a power loss did you lose, and is it worth it?

bikerboyriley1
09-11-2007, 06:43 PM
you lose power when tubbing?

gs97chevys10
09-11-2007, 09:32 PM
loss of power comes from the tires.. low air pressure and width .

afghanimobilerawks
09-12-2007, 03:01 AM
theres a few on here...... wagonboy and a few others......

grimpuppy
09-12-2007, 05:19 AM
Bigger, heavier tires take more power to turn.

gs97chevys10
09-12-2007, 07:20 AM
personally if for racing 500hp+ or it isnt worth it looks wise looks good but if not enough horsepower to turn them its a waste. ive seen lots of people tubbing and cant even do a burn out with them and thats power braking it lol that to me is sensless. drag radials or smaller slicks if not enough power and torque< power+torque+gearing makes sense to me

BrandOmatic
09-12-2007, 10:47 AM
also, doing a backhalf usually goes hand in hand with a roll cage which adds extra weight and money to the project. I'd say for 350 horse or less at the wheels a built 10 or 12 bolt with e/t streets (or radials) would be good in a foot brake street vehicle. i'm assuming tubbed also includes a ford 9in rear which is another source of driveline power loss because the pinion is so far down on the ring gear when compared to the 10 or 12 bolt rears. You have a lot of tooth contact which = a lot of strength, but also a lot of friction which = power lost through the driveline.

bigblock96
10-25-2007, 02:15 AM
the loss is from resistance due to the contact patch of the tire-thus rolling resistance-but if that lil bit of change is going to hurt you then you have more going wrong then tubbing

Frankie
10-25-2007, 11:22 AM
It's a hole new feelin. My truck dropped a full sec. + the only think different was the gearing in the rear.You need to gear it right to make up for that big tire .I had 3:73 with a 26 tall tire ,now 4:86 with a 31 tire . It went from a 14.5 to a 13.2 with no other changes. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif

wagonboy
10-25-2007, 11:36 AM
Here is my personal experience, when I first started racing with my truck (tubbed) I was only runnning a 355 with old 882 heads and a torker II intake, I was able to start my burnout in low gear, shift to second in the burnout but then it would start to pull down and I would have to drive out of it before throwing a rod or something. At the time I was running in the high 12's, with the occassional low 13 if air was bad. After switching to a set of Sportsman II heads and a victor junior intake (probably 75-100hp increase) my burnouts are no problem and I'm running 11.80 all day long. My honest opinion on tubbing? I love the looks but if I were getting hooked up on a 10.5" slick with an 8.5 or 8.8 rear end instead of my big 9" ford, I suspect my times would be closer to 11.50's (just a guess?) Just keep in mind that you do need a decent amount of power to turn the big slicks and you also can hook up a smaller slick these days given the technology of Caltracs etc. What you should do is think about whether or not you NEED the "pro street" look or not? For me it wasn't a choice, I bought the truck partially started (never again) and the frame had already been narrowed there fore making my decision easy however, since then on several occasions I have thought about selling the truck as a Rolling Chassis and putting my engine/tanny in my daily driver with an 8.5 rear and some caltracs and going from there with a street leagal truck that would probably run just as well. .... any way thats my .02 cents...probably more like $5.00 though... sorry

bjcrazyz
10-25-2007, 11:56 AM
10 inches is all you need http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif