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View Full Version : TRACTION BARS ADVISE PLEASE?


doghouse
10-13-2002, 06:50 AM
What type of traction bars are you guys using on the track?



Will slappers work ok as they are not to expensive as i am on a buget?



Did you keep the orginal leaf springs in the back?



Do you have a way to make the truck launch more left or right? or is this not a issue?



I will be using a 406 10-1 sportsmans 2 heads ,victor, 350 turbo 280h cam 2300 tci break a way 411gerars spooled.



Does this look compatable?

bohn333
10-13-2002, 02:51 PM
If your useing a stock rearend and your gonna drive it on the street, i would stay away from a spool. And slapper bars are about the cheapest way to stop wheel hop, if you want to go all out get a 4 link set-up they are full adjustable.

wickeds10
10-13-2002, 02:56 PM
i used the lakewood\'s for the s10 on my first one and i have the slide a links on this other one i have

mommasboy
10-13-2002, 05:39 PM
My slid-a-links are now for sale in the classifieds....Never been on the truck.

my454s10
10-14-2002, 03:53 AM
i use some good ol traction bars (slapper bars) and they seem to work pretty good...i paid 29.00 for them at auto zone....just for the record thats the only thing that i will buy from there... http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif

Mike
10-14-2002, 05:37 AM
i use the lakewood traction bars, it got rid of the wheel hop.

mommasboy
10-14-2002, 02:13 PM
the lakewoods and other slapper bars do take care of the wheel hop, but if you talking about something to use at the track you will want something that helps with weight transfer and wheel hop. the slid-a-links will take care of that.

doghouse
10-14-2002, 02:19 PM
So how does the slide a link change the transfer different than normal traction bars?



Don\'t they contact in the same areas at the front of the springs?

dunnonuffin
10-14-2002, 05:17 PM
The slide-a-links act as a lower control arm (like on a 4-link setup). The attach at the axle end and have a floating attachment at the front of the leaf spring. On launch, the housing will rotate backward (equal and opposite reaction to the axles rotating forward) and the arms will push up on the truck, levering the rearend down against the weight of the truck itself (like slappers, but with NO bind). They work like slappers in that they prevent the spring from winding up, thus they can\'t unload and cause wheelhop.



Plus they are almost infinetely adjustable and you can set preload.



--1990 Mustang GT--

11.70@114.9 (Roswell, elev. 3600ft)



--2002 Camaro Z28--

13.04@103.2 (Roswell)



My Site (http://buffhomer.corral.net)

chrisd
01-01-2003, 07:16 PM
I have a set of Cal Tracs they are just about the best thing you can use with a leaf spring rear end pretty much the same thing as the slide-a-links I think. They make them for all different applications and come powder coated they aren\'t real cheap but worth every bit. Will definetly lower your 60ft. times Just check out there site and the galleries <a href=\"http://www.calvertracing.com/\" target=\"_blank\" target=\"_new\">http://www.calvertracing.com/</a>

MrWheelHop
01-02-2003, 02:22 AM
man you can\'t beat 30 bucks for traction/wheelhop prevention..works for me.. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_eek.gif

Nitrojunkie
01-02-2003, 08:02 AM
anybody using the south side machine bars? i was thinkin about getting those for my truck.

rudedogg
01-04-2003, 09:09 AM
SOUTHSIDES ARE GREAT TRACTION BARS,FOR COIL SPRING APPS. LIKE REGALS ,MONTES,MUSTANGS,LEAFSPRING CARS/TRUCKS CAL-TRAC,SLIDE-A-LINKS ARE THE BEST.................LOOK AT SOME OF THE FASTEST STREET CARS WITH UP TO 10\" WIDE TIRES 8 SEC.NON TUBBED CARS THAT HOOK HARD AND GO STRAIGHT.IM SOLD

whiner3
01-04-2003, 02:35 PM
i have the paylouad package springs in my truck and took a leaf out and not a single bit of wheel hop, the paylouad springs have a lot higher spring rate than the normal ones. but i say go with cheap ones if they\'ll do the job, just make sure that the rubber mumper at the fornt of them is on the spring perch and not on the flat part of the spring

dunnonuffin
01-05-2003, 08:49 AM
KLR--you\'re right about the postioning of the snubber, I\'ve seen countless people with the slappers set up wrong.



I was thinking you could set a bit of preload with slappers by putting one snubber closer to the spring eye than the other. That one would hit first and load that side of the truck more.



Another trick I\'ve seen is to simply put clamps on the front side of the rearend at each point where each leaf ends. Simply clamp the leaf to the one above it. Only on the front side though, this will make it more solid and it won\'t wrap up as easy, though it seems like it may cause a little bit of bind on the street going through suspension travel.

soulman4691
01-05-2003, 02:08 PM
My truck is lowered with 3 inch blocks in the back. would the traction bars be to close to the ground ??

hairdryer
01-05-2003, 02:41 PM
a friend of mine made a simple traction device that worked great. he ran in the 10,40 range with the leaf springs and one bar.



he used a panhard bar off of the old 67-69 chevy trucks and cut it, made a bracket that he welded to the top of the rearend center section and a bracket to the crossmember in front of the rearend. make the bar to the right length to go inbetween the brackets. he had a 12bolt and his 60 ft was in the 1.4\'s.