View Full Version : Fire Wall Ridge
s10spd-racer
01-20-2004, 07:44 PM
I was wondering what most of you do with the lip on the bottom of the fire wall? Do you guys cut it out or just roll it under? If left alone it will be impossible to reach the tranny bolts and be nothing but a pain.
loweredd
01-20-2004, 07:47 PM
depending on how you use the mounts, it can make it DANG near imposible. I would hammer it over if you have it all tore out.
fasrnur
01-20-2004, 07:56 PM
I rolled mine under to make room. If you cut it out I believe you would be getting rid of some spot welds that hold that part of the cab together.
Jeff.....
riotpolice75
01-20-2004, 10:46 PM
i \"adjusted\" it under with a rather large sledge hammer. 2 things:
1. its almost impossible to get at the bolts if the engine even fits with the lip there
2. its sooooo much fun pounding something into submission with a rather large hammer.
smith
Knanthrup
01-20-2004, 11:26 PM
i pounded the crap out of mine
ymyhere
01-21-2004, 04:39 AM
It\'s not \"Pounding\" it\'s not \"Beating\" think of it as an \"Engineering Change\" I re-engineered mine too.
bigfoot
01-21-2004, 04:57 AM
On 2004-01-21 09:39, ymyhere wrote:
It\'s not \"Pounding\" it\'s not \"Beating\" think of it as an \"Engineering Change\" I re-engineered mine too.
i like that...
i too re-engineered mine. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif
I readjusted the angle of the lip with a swingpress as well, I would almost say that it is a must !!
riotpolice75
01-21-2004, 11:26 AM
AHA. i stand corrected on 2 counts. it is indeed an \"engineering change\" and its re engineered with the swing press.
smith
evil_admin
01-21-2004, 01:17 PM
If you wanted to spend some time and make it look really nice, you could cut out the lip, then weld in a new piece to seal the seam. Or have some fun with an air-hammer and re-engineer it as needed.
Whats funny is that the lip makes it very hard to get to stock bellhousing bolts. Seems flawed from the start.
s10spd-racer
01-21-2004, 04:45 PM
If rolling the lip over allows you to get to the bellhousing bolts without using every *&*^&$^%$# word in the dictionary then look out boys sledge hammer time it is. Oh and I have so much built up inside this will be fun. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif
zz5s10blazer
01-21-2004, 04:52 PM
Did I just get lucky or what? I did\'nt have to do anything with mine it worked fine!(not a beater) http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif
mzoomora
01-21-2004, 07:04 PM
The further back you put the engine, the worse it will be to get at the bolts. Also if it is higher up. Just coax it back with a little 5 lb persuasion, then just touch up any chipped paint- it will be hardly noticeable.
Knanthrup
01-21-2004, 08:04 PM
Yeah \"readjusting\" the lip was fun, but I think I had more fun \"correcting\" the frame on the front to \"tailor to\" the big frickin mech fuel pump. In either case I selected the apropriate \"utensil apparatus\" which usually involved a \"sizable mallet\"
s10spd-racer
01-24-2004, 03:05 PM
OK guys i had some fun with a large hammer on that lip but what i need to know is how much of the floor needs to be moved in. I am mostly concerned with making sure the headers and collectors are gonna fit fine and not be a real pain to get an exhaust in.
bigfoot
01-26-2004, 06:04 AM
The passenger side needed the most \"re-enginering\", and if you have ac you need to notch the ac box for the valve cover.
Bustinwood
01-26-2004, 10:01 AM
ohh yeah i took my agressions out on that poor lil truck http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif
Bustinwood
01-26-2004, 10:04 AM
i had to cut into the heater box on mine just to get the tall valve covers to fit i duno why it set back so far i mean their are only so many holes avaliable but it works rather well the trans dapt mounts worked great http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif
s10spd-racer
01-26-2004, 01:29 PM
Well i have good news for me guys i took my heater box out and it is staying out. It does have a/c and it to me is nothing but a pain in my ass to have to work around it. The other reason im leaving it out is it doesn\'t need heat because the truck doesn\'t get used in the cold season anyway. But why i asked how far things had to be adjusted was for header clearance. I wanna be able to get to my collectors without them touching any of the floor or fire wall. let me know how for you guys think it has to go.
KeithC
01-26-2004, 01:50 PM
Cut that lip right at the bend and re-weld it after you massage it with a swing press. Try to get it at a 45 deg. angle.
Then you can really get to the bolts
Foxdude311
01-26-2004, 03:52 PM
I moved my firewall back 2\" it\'s really easy to cut an move the firewall back just make sure you don\'t catch the insulation on fire, it\'s worth the work it to because you can reach all the bolts in your tranny. and I moved the floor up on the passenger side so that I could put the bolts in my header flanges.
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