How does this motor sound?

[ChevyV8Racer350]

A freind of mine has a running 350 that he will sell me for 400 bucks to stick in my S-10. It is out of a \'70 model Chevy Nova and runs perfect because it has an original amount of 70 something thousand miles because it sat inside the Nova while it was wrecked in someones garage for 10+ years. It has had alot of recent work on it to make it run great, starts up quicker than my fuel injected 4.3. The current list of mods it has on it now include Edlebrock Performer Intake, Edlebrock Carb, Edlebrock Valve Covers, Edlebrock airfilter lid and assembly with a K&N Filter. How does this motor sound to go in my 88 S-10? Would I have to do anything to it to get it to bolt up to the 700-R4 that was behind my 4.3? BTW, when stick this motor in do I have to move the tranny back any or shorten the drive shaft? I plan to use a Vette radiator with dual electric fans. Thanks Brad

[ZZ4Blazer]

Let me try to sum up most of your questions. That motor sounds decent. Its good enough to get a start on. It sounds like this is gonna be your first project, so it will be a learning experience.



Cooling: I\"d keep your stock 4.3 radiator. I used the vette radiator, and my 4.3 radiator keeps my motor 5 degree\'s cooler. Use the flex-0-lite dual 12\" electric trim line fans. It completely covers the radiator fins. I will be installing mine shortly. A 180 thermo, and some Redline water wetter will help too. I used the water wetter, and I noticed a 15 degree drop.



If you are going to use headers, use a set of shorty headers. Long tube aren\'t worth the trouble. Hedman makes a set for the s-10 v8, and are $100 from summit. They are however, cheap. Sanderson makes a set just like them, but are much better quality. But, are also more expensive. These won\'t require any frame mods. Depending on how much you move the motor back, you shouldn\'t have to bash the firewall in either.



Keep your 700R4 tranny. It will bolt up to the v8, but might have to swap out your flywheel. I\'m not sure what rear main seal is on your 88. You will probably have to get a performance rebuild somewhere down the line. And depending on your cam, a higher stall TQ convertor. You will love having overdrive once you get on the highway. Depending on what tailshaft the Th350 has, you will have to move the crossmember, and cut, or lengthen the driveshaft.



If you don\'t move your motor back any, you wont\' have to cut your driveshaft, or move your tranny crossmember. But, this will most likely cost you room between the water pump and the radiator. So you will most likely have to move the radiator to the \"forward\" postion.



Get a high TQ mini starter for the swap, it will give you more room between the starter and the frame. I never tried using a stock sized starter, so Im not sure if one will fit.



Most 4.3 s-10s\' I\'ve know personally came factory with 3.42 gears. There\'s a number in your glove box what will tell you what they were. I\'m pretty sure 3.55\'s didnt come in the s-series trucks.



My truck didn\'t drop any after my v8 swap, but it was lowered already. With the 4.3, you shouldn\'t drop more than 1/2\"



I think I got everything, anything else just hollar.

[ChevyV8Racer350]

What am I going to be required to do ot put the radiator in the foward position? BTW I will be using AC and thanks for all the useful info. Brad

[ZZ4Blazer]

You move the radiator forward into the core support. Most guys who do this don\'t have AC, cause it goes where the AC condesor goes. You can do both, but its more work.

[90Blazer]

I hope you guys don\'t mind, but a couple more questions come to mind. I also currently have a 4.3, in a Blazer that I plan to yard out in the near future for a TPI 350 from a camaro or firebird. Will any of the stock motor mounts work, or will aftermarket ones be needed. also, if using exhaust manifolds, will they bolt up to the existing system if I don\'t move the engine back?



Thanks!

Dave

[knudsonm]

You are probably going to want to get the factory 2.8 frame mounts and some aftermarket v-8 conversion mounts. From JTR or Advanced Adapters or Trans-Dapt. I would recommend headers and dual exhaust from the beginning. Why choke the engine? If you decide to use manifolds they probably won\'t match up to the stock system. Besides the stock system is for a 4.3 not a 5.7 Also make sure you get the wiring harness and computer with the donor engine to make things easier. If you have anymore questions just holla\'

[90Blazer]

Thanks for the info... I\'m not worried about choking the engine, my 4.3 breathes into a 3\" system with a flowmaster at the end... Just trying to figure out what needs updating and what I can use \"as-is\"... Oh, if I do get the harness from the donor vehicle, how much of that can I use without a bunch of cutting and splicing? Will the firewall plug from, say a Camaro plug into the mate in my truck without a bunch of wiring problems???



thanks again!



Dave

[Ka-Boom]

Im looking for advice on a 85\' s10 4x4 blazer engine swap. Right now a 2.8 is sitting in it. I have read the JTR book and am still debating the pro and cons between 305 and 350. Does anybody have, or know where i can get a good book to put in the 350? Also what type of car/ truck would provide a solid donor? Finally, are the engine modifications for the swap any different from the 305 to the 350?

[franksandbeans]

the swap is the same, since they are the same externally. internally however, they vary greatly. the 305 is basically a waste of time if you can get a 350. look for a full size truck, a caprice, or even a crappy van. you can pick up a van with a good 350 and auto trans real cheap

[mommasboy]

On 2002-07-25 06:25, ZZ4Blazer wrote:

If you are going to use headers, use a set of shorty headers. Long tube aren\'t worth the trouble. Hedman makes a set for the s-10 v8, and are $100 from summit. They are however, cheap. Sanderson makes a set just like them, but are much better quality. But, are also more expensive. These won\'t require any frame mods. Depending on how much you move the motor back, you shouldn\'t have to bash the firewall in either.

Depending on what tailshaft the Th350 has, you will have to move the crossmember, and cut, or lengthen the driveshaft.

If you don\'t move your motor back any, you wont\' have to cut your driveshaft, or move your tranny crossmember. But, this will most likely cost you room between the water pump and the radiator. So you will most likely have to move the radiator to the \"forward\" postion.

Get a high TQ mini starter for the swap, it will give you more room between the starter and the frame. I never tried using a stock sized starter, so Im not sure if one will fit.







Well first off, I did\'nt have to make any frame mods to put in the Headman longtubes. They are a good investment. they have large ports and 3 1/2\'\' collectors. You should\'nt have to move the motor back any if u use the Advanced Adapters kit,it leaves u with about 3 1/2\'\' between the water pump and the radiator. But i did \"bash\" the firewall back to get the turbo-350 in there. Second, the stock crossmember fit EXACTLY where it was to begin with. no trimming or anything. The TH-350 has the short tailshaft(6\'\') so the drive shaft needed another 3\'\'. Had a custom one made for like $150. If you use the Headman longtubes the stock chevy starter wont fit. The high torque one is easy to get in there and is lighter anyway.

[Ka-Boom]

My friend told me that a good donor motor and trany would come out of a 89\'-94\' suburban. Because it uses roller rockers.

[rebelflag31039]

i wouldnt mind gettin a 350 outa a 3500 chevy with a Z28 transmission cause the 350 in a 3500 got a oversized cam for lots of torque