View Full Version : problem found on front end
my454s10
09-01-2004, 08:33 AM
i put on tire straight (drivers) and the passenger tire is pointed to the right a lot more...so all i need is a aligment job...kkkkkoooooolllllllll
Indiana
09-01-2004, 09:32 AM
I a bit dense here. What do you mean?
327Isuzu
09-01-2004, 10:01 AM
Massive toe-out. It caused him to drag the tires last time out.
my454s10
09-01-2004, 12:15 PM
I had lowered it 3 inches in the front and rear..and before i lowered it ..the truck drove straight as an arrow...but after i lowered it..it pulled to the right extreamly hard...so i got my tires pointed straight on a flat surface and the passenger side tire was pointing out..it was turned to the right ..a lot more ..several inches...i am just excited to find to find the problem..i thought that i may have bent something
Scotty_S-15
09-01-2004, 03:07 PM
On 2004-09-01 17:15, my454s10 wrote:
I had lowered it 3 inches in the front and rear..and before i lowered it ..the truck drove straight as an arrow...but after i lowered it..it pulled to the right extreamly hard...so i got my tires pointed straight on a flat surface and the passenger side tire was pointing out..it was turned to the right ..a lot more ..several inches...i am just excited to find to find the problem..i thought that i may have bent something
When you had that thread going, I think I mentioned the \"string & jackstands\" trick... You can even adjust your toe-in fairly accurately that way, even get the steering wheel straight. Just takes a little time and a little thought.
my454s10
09-01-2004, 03:51 PM
i guess i have never heard of the string trick..how is this done....i was just going to eye ball it..than drive it .down the raod and see how it felt...
MOREPOWER
09-01-2004, 04:40 PM
Or u can use a tape measure and masure inside to inside of thread. Front and back of tire. evenly of course. May sound little wierd because way i explaining it. But it does work.. How mechanic double check to make sure the wheel alignment machine working .
Scotty_S-15
09-01-2004, 04:52 PM
Basically, set up 4 jackstands (or anything else that\'s handy), and draw up 2 strings, 1 down each side of the truck. Move them in close, touching the tires, but ever so slightly. You can then set the toe-in and get it pretty close. When the toe-in is properly set on both sides at the same time, the steering wheel should be straight, but that\'s just a cosmetic thing. I usually give it an 1/16 to an 1/8\" on each side to get me in the ballpark.
............ Keep in mind you may need to compensate for different treads widths, front and rear. That is, when you get the strings against the tires, measure the distance between the strings at the rear, then the front.
.............. This same method can be used to check if the rear is straight in relationship to the front, to see if the vehicle isn\'t \"dog-tracking\".
my454s10
09-01-2004, 05:10 PM
i guess i am reatred ..i do not understand...
Scotty_S-15
09-01-2004, 06:24 PM
On 2004-09-01 22:10, my454s10 wrote:
i guess i am reatred ..i do not understand...
Don\'t fret, it\'s probably me, I don\'t describe things very well... it\'s like, \"don\'t you know what I\'m thinking?\" http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif
Gotta go, maybe I\'ll make a drawing tomorrow and post it.
spacecadet
09-01-2004, 06:47 PM
Before I learned how to use a bubble alignment equiptment, I use to do them the old fashion way too. Simialer to the string method. 6 cement blocks 3 per side and 2 straight 2x4x8\'s and a tape measure.
Place 1 2x4 next to front tire. Set it on the blocks. one in the middle and others on the ends. press the board firmly agaist tire. leave @ 1 foot behind tire. Tape measure fron of board at the end then again at the tire. Compare mesure ments, adjust tie rod sleaves to obtain an even measure ment then add 1/8 inch pside. This shoul make the alignment almost perfect.
I\'ve also adjusted camber with a carpenters sqaure and a level.
By using these methods, on cars that were checked later on by a computerized alignment machine, I have found that these methods get the alignment angles very even.
Nothing beat a computer align now adays. Hook it up adjust the way the computer tells you to then \"Done\". Any body who can read a screen and turn a wrench can do a computerized alignment!
Scotty_S-15
09-02-2004, 03:02 AM
On 2004-09-01 23:47, spacecadet wrote:
Before I learned how to use a bubble alignment equiptment, I use to do them the old fashion way too. Simialer to the string method. 6 cement blocks 3 per side and 2 straight 2x4x8\'s and a tape measure.
Place 1 2x4 next to front tire. Set it on the blocks. one in the middle and others on the ends. press the board firmly agaist tire. leave @ 1 foot behind tire. Tape measure fron of board at the end then again at the tire. Compare mesure ments, adjust tie rod sleaves to obtain an even measure ment then add 1/8 inch pside. This shoul make the alignment almost perfect.
I\'ve also adjusted camber with a carpenters sqaure and a level.
By using these methods, on cars that were checked later on by a computerized alignment machine, I have found that these methods get the alignment angles very even.
Nothing beat a computer align now adays. Hook it up adjust the way the computer tells you to then \"Done\". Any body who can read a screen and turn a wrench can do a computerized alignment!
2X4s........ I like that one. But it\'s obvious to me that you don\'t get your 2x4s where I do!http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif I presume yours are somewhat straight.
..........I just did something similar with my rear, using 1X2X6\' alum. angle. I clamped them to the axle flanges to check my \"toe-in\". and yeah, the rear did have a tiny bit. http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_mad.gif I also checked the camber with a 24\" level, that looked OK. (My rear tires were wearing \"funny\".)
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