new problems

[stroker1]

Got the engine back in and installed a vette radiator. The temp went up to 200 with the vette radiator with a 160 thermostat. It had been running 170-180. I\'ve only got 1 12\" pusher but thats all I had been running with the 3 row copper radiator. I\'m not impressed. I changed some things in the distributor and reset the timing at 36, so I\'m wondering if these changes may be the reason for the higher temp. I should have done one thing at a time I guess.



Another thing, does anyone have the run-on problem with their MSD? I\'m in the notion to fix that while I\'m at it. Where can I get a diod to fix the problem and where should I put it? On the brown alternator wire maybe? I hate it when I switch the truck off and it takes 15 seconds for it to stop running.

[grimpuppy]

Your MSD should have come with the diode. If you do not have it anymore you can get one at radio shack. It will go inline with the brown wire on the altenator like you mentioned.

[stroker1]

Thanks. I didn\'t buy the box new so I didn\'t get a diode with it, but I thought I remembered hearing something about a diode. I checked out MSD\'s web site and pulled up the installation instructions. Turns out that their are several ways to solve the run-on problem, depending on application.Thanks alot for the response.



Now I\'m going to work on the heating problem. Maybe I\'ll try more air flow. Since this is under the GENERAL topic, does anyone have a vette radiator that keeps their engine around 160-170 deg?

[stroker1]

Well, I found out what my supposed heating problem was. I\'m loosing compression into the water jacket. I noticed the radiator was spilling coolant. I loosened the cap and it almost blew the cap out of my hand. AND THE ENGINE WAS COOL!!! Started skipping on the trial run. I removed the plugs and #4 looked like it had been washed with bleach. Spun the engine over and water is shooting out of the spark plug hole. I forgot to mention on the trial run, she started steaming out of the exhaust. Did a compression test and the lowest cylinder had 180 PSI. I was thinking a head gasket till that compression test. So I pulled off the heads and no sign of a blown head gasket. #4 cylinder has a half moon shaped line near the top. I\'m having the heads pressure tested and magnafluxed. I\'m hoping for something there. I\'ve never had a 350 block let me down at only .030\" over. The engine only has about 10.5:1 CR. The line thats in the cylinder wall can\'t be felt with your finger or a sewing needle, so it\'s not a bad crack if it is a crack at all.



Well, you know, if it wasn\'t for the guys with the bad luck, the ones with the good luck wouldn\'t have nothing to be thankful for.

[Truckman91]

Why would you ever want to have your engine run at 160-170 degrees?????

[stroker1]

Why NOT!!!! Cooler is better. Cooler intake, cooler fuel/air mixture. 170-180 would be preferable. Every 8-10 deg. F that you drop intake temps is equal to 1 octane on fuel. If you have an engine thats borderline on pump gas, a cooler fuel/air mixture can make it or brake it on pump gas. And of course humidity.



High engine temps are good for emissions, not necesarilly for power.

[Truckman91]

Exactly, cool air/fuel is great, but you want your engine at least to operating temprature.



I understand how engines work, and you probably dont have to worry about getting into closed loop http://www.s10v8.com/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif

[stroker1]

What in the world did you ask for, then?!

[knudsonm]

hope this helps. A copper radiator actually cools better than an aluminum one. The aluminum one just weighs less and is stronger so you can run higher cooling system pressures. 200 degrees isn\'t bad.



Are you using a relay to turn on your cooling fans? if not they are fedding power back into the electrical system as they slow down and cause run on. They act like a generator.

[stroker1]

Good advise!! I haven\'t thought of that, but it does sound logical. No i\'m not using a relay yet. Haven\'t got around to it. I\'m still down for the compression in the water jacket. Haven\'t heard from the heads yet.

[stroker1]

I found out that I had a head with a crack in all four combustion chambers. The other head was fine. DAMN OLD HEADS!! The head was repaired and the engine runs great, and only runs 180 now. Which I can live with if summer time don\'t show me any problems. How come none of you fellows ever mentioned how fun it was getting to the far bottom head bolt with a torque wrench? On the drivers side it\'s a pain next to the end of the steering column. Had to take the motor mount bolts loose and shift the engine. Thankfully the holes are slotted in the motor mounts and it wasn\'t too bad to move.

[MARKYMARK]

your run on problem is most likely the fan and ignition are on the same fuse, until the fan stops moving it is still powering your ignition. so switch your fan power source to another fuse. i\'ve also seen a realty shady tach wiring install where a couple freyed wires were touching other fuses keeping the car bearly running .

[stroker1]

All my wiring is neat and proper, but the fan may be pulling from the power acc. terminal. I\'m almost sure of it. Thanks for the advise. When I removed the computer, I traced down all the wiring and removed everything not needed, and all the aftermarket installs are nice and clean. I\'ll check into it. THANKS



stroker1

[stroker1]

I disconnected the fan and it stopped the run on problem. I\'ll add a relay soon. Thanks for the advise.