Seasoned 2bolt main block hp capabilities with procharger

[wild85]

I want to put a procharger on a 383. I will run 8-10 lbs of boost I suspect. I want 500-600hp. Now will a plain eagle assembly with steel crank and 2 bolt main hold. Or should I worry about grenading the block or anything. This amount of boost isn\'t that much more than a stock setup. Should I splay the mains? and if so what is the cost to do so? any ideas?

[my454s10]

just for a piece of mind , i would put sprayed bolts in it with a good stud gridle and studs. it may be ok with out those parts but why chance destroying a good motor over not doing it.

[wild85]

yeah cheap out on 200 bucks to destroy 4000, makes sense.

[ZR1BLAZER]

its your choice. you dont need it but i guess it wont hurt. better safe then sorry.

[ZR1BLAZER]

hey wild85 take a look at your post BLOWER ON 383 i left ya a little info.

[Foxdude311]

You should 1/2 fill your block if you want to run that much boost. You can still run water though it if you are going to be driving it on the street. What pro charger are you going to use? D-1SC is a good start with room to grow. Eagle kit\'s are good the weak points are the rods. If you get a good set of manley alum. rods you\'ll be better off if you want to run more boost later. Next step is your heads.... The bigger the intake runner the better I would say a good set of the dart pro 1 210 or 230cc heads would work great for that. if you have splayed mains done make sure you have them studed also. ARP all the way. Any other questions feel free to ask

[Truckman91]

I would definatly run slayed caps in this situation. You can get Milidon caps for ~$180 at Summit or Jegs, Or I have seen a set of Eagle caps on ebay for $~60.



When you do splayed caps you must line bore your mains to get it back to perfect. Typicall shops will charge $200-250 to install splayed main caps. So you looking at $350-475, which is cheap insurance, especially if you have the coin for an ATI....

[350-s-10]

i had my block splayed when after i blew it up, i think it was pretty close to $500 including caps studs and line bore. i dont think i would recomend aluminum rods for the street though. They are strong but a set of H Beam rods would be a better choice for longevity.

[ZeroGravity58]

thats sounds like it would work. I dont know if i would use head with 230CC runners that is big for a street motor. Aluminum rods are expensive and they are not really for street use. A nice set of forged H beams would be better for the street. Also with 2 bolt mains a big questions if how many RPM\'s you plan on turning. If you plan on turning 7,000 RPM\'s then yea you should be 4 bolt mains. If you dont plan on going past 5,000 or 5,500 then 2 bolt mains will hold fine.

[Foxdude311]

He still need\'s to let us know what he want\'s out of this motor and a budget. That\'s alway\'s a factor when doing something

[ZR1BLAZER]

hes on vacation. he will be back after the 1st. from the way he was talking he plans to spend the money and looking for 500+hp.

[wild85]

OK I am back from Vacation. I would actually like to have 600-700 hp out of this. Go big or go home! LOL.

[wild85]

If I go for more than 500hp I am going with a forged assembly as long as I can get a good deal. I would want it to be intercooled also.There is 6000 miles on the seasoned block.

[Truckman91]

600-700hp = Dart Little M Block, if oyu dont want to have to worry every time you hit it.



The best thing you can do if you want a factory block to live under those conditions is have it filled and put splayed caps on it, but that takes away streetablity