S10V8.com

XTEN · #11 10-17-2009, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OTHCUSTOMS

i really think this motor just wasnt done right from the start. any time this motor was touched it was done by my dads friends and both of them have a few race cars. it was just pourly done from build by this other guy. it just sucks as i go along with all these different problems that im learning more about this stuff instead of just learning a better way.

There must have been alot done right,cause it sure as hell was a rocket!!

OTHCUSTOMS · #12 10-18-2009, 08:43 PM

a rocket that went 10.94 at best. yes i do agree, but there are plenty of other people with 406 engines close to what i have and they are running 10.50s 10.60s. so idk

OTHCUSTOMS · #13 10-19-2009, 12:32 PM

oh well, its definetly back to the drawing board again!!

chris1972 · #14 10-19-2009, 08:55 PM

i would use the same heads and bottom type..(not same parts of coure)..maybe same crank and rods .but would go with a roller all the way you can still run in the 10s with a mild roller 250 to 260 dur at .050 and a 600 lift..

OTHCUSTOMS · #15 10-20-2009, 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris1972

i would use the same heads and bottom type..(not same parts of coure)..maybe same crank and rods .but would go with a roller all the way you can still run in the 10s with a mild roller 250 to 260 dur at .050 and a 600 lift..

thats exactly what im going to do. we took the rest of the block apart today. i have to replace 1 piston. im sending the block do get puff honed and line honed. the crank is perfect. just gonna get it cleaned up. the heads are perfect i knew that already. gotta get all new rings, rods are still perfect, gotta get new bearings definetly gonan go with atleast a 600 roller cam. i have 2 sets of perfect roller lifters so ill use 1 of them. and im just gonan have to change the valve spring pressure for the roller cam. sendintg out the bare block,pistons and crank to the machine shop on weds. its definetly gonna be a high compression motor nothing i can do about it now. i knew it from when i milled the heads.

OTHCUSTOMS · #16 10-21-2009, 07:44 PM

Heres another big update!!!!! block was sent to the machine shop and:

THE BLOCK IS CRACKED!!!! I REPEAT THE BLOCK IS CRACKED!!!!
freaking thing is cracked at 1 of the head bolt holes. just goes to show you what the heall im dealing with here. so now im looking for a 400 block 2 or 4 bolt main. core or having short block only. standard bore. i will only work with a totally unmolested block so i know 1000000% of the block. i dont want to buy someone elses old race motor, someone eleses mistake or anything. thats the mistakes ive made already.

Scotty_S-15 · #17 10-21-2009, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OTHCUSTOMS

Heres another big update!!!!! block was sent to the machine shop and:

THE BLOCK IS CRACKED!!!! I REPEAT THE BLOCK IS CRACKED!!!!
freaking thing is cracked at 1 of the head bolt holes. just goes to show you what the heall im dealing with here. so now im looking for a 400 block 2 or 4 bolt main. core or having short block only. standard bore. i will only work with a totally unmolested block so i know 1000000% of the block. i dont want to buy someone elses old race motor, someone eleses mistake or anything. thats the mistakes ive made already.

That does suck.
But hearing all the problems with deck cracks with the 400 blocks, this is what I'd do.
By the time you find a block, have it machined, etc................ you might be 1/2 way to the $1,500 for the DART SHP block. AND, it's got a lot of improvements over the GM castings.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/Dart-Spec...29740/10002/-1
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OTHCUSTOMS · #18 10-21-2009, 08:14 PM

nah idk scotty, i mean we will see really. but the machine shop im using is a good friend of the guy im good friends with and knows my whole issue and every1 is trying to help me the best they can. he thinks he has 2 un molested blocks somewhere 1 mite be a 2 bolt main the other a 4 bolt. im gonna go with the 2 bolt due to webbing being thicker. b4 i do any purchase im gonna ask how much for the block and the boring and line honing and all that. im gonna way out my options the best i can. keep in mind, i do have a complete 355 here, just needs new rings and i can slap my worked heads on there and just beaf up the cam a lil more, or if i wanna be a big shot, haha, take my 400 crank and throw that in there. between all 3 options im gonna see whats the best bang for the buck.

OTHCUSTOMS · #19 10-21-2009, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scotty_S-15

That does suck.
But hearing all the problems with deck cracks with the 400 blocks, this is what I'd do.
By the time you find a block, have it machined, etc................ you might be 1/2 way to the $1,500 for the DART SHP block. AND, it's got a lot of improvements over the GM castings.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/Dart-Spec...29740/10002/-1
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plus scotty i just looked at that jegs listing u sent me.is that a 400 and a 406 listing of blocks? even if it is its $1455 and then truck delivery, i cant see at all if i get a local stock 400 block and the machine work being as much as that would be.

Scotty_S-15 · #20 10-21-2009, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OTHCUSTOMS

plus scotty i just looked at that jegs listing u sent me.is that a 400 and a 406 listing of blocks? even if it is its $1455 and then truck delivery, i cant see at all if i get a local stock 400 block and the machine work being as much as that would be.

OK, OK, 1/3 the cost of the SHP block not 1/2........

I didn't know you had a trusted source for the block(s). That could work out well.

Oh, and another thing, at the Jeg's link, scroll down to the box to order it, and click "more info on Dart ....." It'll show a list of all the reasons it's a good product. I read it and yes, wood! ......

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